wax sealing for turning blanks

[Spindle]

Hi

The method Chas describes is the one I've seen used and would use myself. I would take the necessary precautions with regard to the fire risk as I do when welding or grinding in the garage.

Talc to make the wax removal easier, does that really work on wood? I'm of the opinion life's too short to worry about recycling 5ps worth of wax.

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

what fire precautions do you take when grinding Mick?

 

[Soylent1]

+1 for the above!
I would be very careful using a naked flame anywhere near it, It's quite volatile when in liquid form. Also there's no reason to have it over about 70 degrees maximum for sealing.

I rather thought Chas's idea of heating the wax to fuming point and then seeing off any water vapour near the edge to be sealed sounded sensible? That would mean the wax would suck into the pores better and the seal would be more effective don't you think?

Also were you in the British Antarctic survey or something? Wondering why you needed to wax core samples....samples of what core?

I haven't ever sealed any wood with wax, so I'm not saying Chas's method is wrong, it's probably the way to go if you want to get a good seal on the first dip. But I have always found that if you fail to get an adequate seal on the first coat, pin holes etc.. then just another quick dip after the first layer has solidified is usually sufficient, if not then try a third coat. It might take a minute or so longer but it means you can have your wax at a lower temperature.

I used to work for an independent materials testing laboratory. Not as glamorous as the Antarctic survey

 

[Spindle]

what fire precautions do you take when grinding Mick?

Hi

Fire extinguisher to hand - no flammable materials in the line of fire - don't leave the garage unattended for at least half an hour after I've finished grinding.

I was actually referring to angle grinding but it would apply equally, (though perhaps with a shorter 'wait' time), if I used an offhand grinder in the garage.

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

righto...so its stray sparks igniting dust etc you're mitigating against

 

[Grahamshed]

I did wonder about that. I have positioned my pro edge right next to the lathe on the basis that if it was quick and easy to get at I would use it more often. That did mean that the sparks were going into the surrounding shavings [-X

 

[CHJ]

I did wonder about that. I have positioned my pro edge right next to the lathe on the basis that if it was quick and easy to get at I would use it more often. That did mean that the sparks were going into the surrounding shavings [-X

You also need to take care not to contaminate any Oak turnings or cloths etc. used for finishing it.
Steel and Oak tannins have a habit of making an unattractive finish if any moisture gets to them.

And on the basis of belt sanders for sharpening, the Pro edge is a relatively open construction and not normally used for wood resulting in low risk, but using the general shop Belt and Disc sander to sharpen steel is a higher risk scenario if you don't clean out any fine wood dust in the nooks and crannies regularly.

 

[Grahamshed]

I did wonder about that. I have positioned my pro edge right next to the lathe on the basis that if it was quick and easy to get at I would use it more often. That did mean that the sparks were going into the surrounding shavings [-X

And on the basis of belt sanders for sharpening, the Pro edge is a relatively open construction and not normally used for wood resulting in low risk, but using the general shop Belt and Disc sander to sharpen steel is a higher risk scenario if you don't clean out any fine wood dust in the nooks and crannies regularly.

As you say, the pro edge is open and is only for sharpening. I was referring to the sparks seeming to go down into the shavings that had accumulated on the floor. I am not sure if they were still hot when they got there ( I kept as close an eye as I could for a while )

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

If I'm using the angle grinder I usually give it a good half hour before leaving the garage. I once had a corner full of cobwebs start smouldering on me. If possible, I do any grinding or welding outside.
My bench grinder is (hopefully) far enough away from the lathe to be safe, but usually spend at least half an hour sweeping up and tidying tools away before locking up, just in case.
It does no harm to keep a fire extinguisher near to hand, and a fire blanket takes up very little space.

 

[petercharlesfagg]

I use old candles and keep an eye open for bargain bin sell offs.
I heat wax to fuming point in a large pan and if blank or log end will fit in I immerse for a few seconds and let water vapor boil off a little then lift out. Round blanks get edges rolled in it.
If too big for pan or picking up I paint hot wax on with bristle brush.

I used to go the same way apart from using an electric hot plate with a tray with raised edges (1 inch high minimum, a roasting tin is good) then chuck in all the old candles I could beg from family, neighbours etc.

Ensure the wax is HOT! Do not stick you finger in it to check!

Use a piece of Green wood to test and if it sizzles then do not get it hotter!

Dip all the cut logs or roll your blanks, GENTLY, in the wax. Take it slowly or else hot wax goes everywhere!

It is by far the cheapest and most effective option.

Regards, Peter.