Waterstone sharpening station ideas wanted

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Benchwayze":39ssbg8l said:
I bang on about Frank Klausz....I don't think you will find a neater solution for keeping a water-stone ready for use, and without quite so much mess, when you do use it.

frank03.jpg
 
Benchwayze":2h6e5rbf said:
Thanks Tom. I don't have the skills to make stills from DVD; Where did you find that shot?

John :)

Just play a DVD on a PC (I use Linux).

Many (software) DVD players will make a screen grab themselves, or you can use a desktop screen dumper.

BugBear
 
Thanks Schummie. It's the sort of thing I was considering when I had waterstones. But not only are waterstones messy but so am I ... and I would never have kept it all neat and tidy like that. This reminds me, I must order some scary paper ;)
 
wizer":u6rocxhi said:
Thanks Schummie. It's the sort of thing I was considering when I had waterstones. But not only are waterstones messy but so am I ... and I would never have kept it all neat and tidy like that. This reminds me, I must order some scary paper ;)

My god, we must be related.

I'm going to have a look at Matthew's site now, and will probably order some PSA papers to have a go. I already have a slab of marble that'll do nicely for the substrate.

Cheers

Aled
 
I only just managed the process of playing the DVD!
Thanks BB

And Google image search is something I don't know about until now!Mostly becasue I stick with Yahoo. I suppose they have something similar though...:)

Cheers Tom.

Regards
John :idea: :lol:
 
Google is everything Microsoft should have been. How's that for a controversial statement ? :lol:
 
The plot thickens.

The pack of lapping sheets offered by Workshop Heaven comprises of 40, 30 and 5 micron sheets which roughly translate to 250, 500 and 6000 grit waterstones. I can see the benefit of a coarse medium, but why supply two coarse and one fairly fine?

Rob, on the other hand in his review used 30, 5 and 1 micron papers (roughly 500, 6,000 and 12,000 grit waterstones) which to my mind serves as a more complete system.

So, which should I go for? Is 1 micron (or even 0.3 micron (about 50,000grit) :shock: :shock:) overkill? I may get one sheet of 0.3micron just for the hell of it.

Cheers

Aled
 
Also interested in the answer to this question as I have my trigger finger hovering over that very starter kit.

Matthew, if you're reading this, could you also tell me what size the dimensions of the glass plate are?

Cheers

Tom
 
I found a perfect 'tupperware' container for a couple of quid from Wilkinsons that holds 3 stones vertically and totally immerses them in water.

Wortha look in your local Wilkos
 
Hi guys, the glass sheet is 360mm x 220mm, (14" x 8-1/2" in old money) enough room for three strips of film, quarter or one third of a sheet each, with a bit of space between.

Regarding the grits, I found that 5 micron would achieve a mirror finish easily from 30 but it's faster than going to 15 for the intermediate.

15 sounds more logical in theory and that tends to be favoured by the Barnsley Workshop alumni, who also usually grab a sheet or two of 0.3 while they're at it.

There is no problem mixing and matching if you want to, the prices are the same so just send me a message and I'll mix up whatever cocktail of grades you like.
 
I've recently found that going from 40 - 30 - then 15 (grey psa) - 5 and finally 1 gives the level of finish I want, more quickly than 40 - 30 - 5. Having only recently used the 1 micron I think .3 might be OTT.

BTW The PSA is so much better to use than the plain, so worth the little extra.
 
Aled Dafis":3r5h6439 said:
Rob, on the other hand in his review used 30, 5 and 1 micron papers (roughly 500, 6,000 and 12,000 grit waterstones) which to my mind serves as a more complete system.

Cheers

Aled
Aled - I originally wanted to use just the 30 and 1um papers, but Matthew let me have a sheet of the intermediate 5um (all PSA btw and well worth it) and after having used these three papers for a few weeks now, it seems to be a fairly balanced system. The secondary bevel is achieved quickly using the 30um and a further polished micro-bevel can be added with a few swipes on the 5 and finally 1um papers.
Alternatively, if you chose not to go for an additional micro-bevel, the main honed bevel from the 30um paper can simply be polished on the finer papers - Rob
 
Tony":2mjbajab said:
I found a perfect 'tupperware' container for a couple of quid from Wilkinsons that holds 3 stones vertically and totally immerses them in water.

Wortha look in your local Wilkos

Speaking as the owner of a lot of Tupperware, what you've got isn't Tupperware.

Plastic, maybe.

Tupperware is really, REALLY, good stuff, and very expensive.

Mine comes from car boot sales :)

BugBear
 
Is there any system that doesn't make a mess?

WorkSharp.

I read that it works well. It will have limitations, however these may not be an issue if all you use are bevel down planes and chisels, and are not looking for highly polished edges.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
No doubt wet stones are messy; probably kept the Japanese craftsman working on site, outdoors for centuries; (and don't you think you're coming in here with those messy things...)Same too for wetstone grinders, best suited to sink area. And why don't those stone pond arrangements with 3 stones or more on top, mix up the slurry as you spread the water from the trough, so you get coarse grains on your poliushing stone?

However, the higher grits 4000 and up are hard, don't wear very fast, and store dry, whilst still cutting and polishing very fast. So a diamond/waterstone combination is bench possible, as water is limited to gentle spray bottle squirt. Grinding the primary bevel is not a frequent task, and a few blades are saved up for the wet stone grinder/draining board when 'er indoors is otherwise engaged. A 15 micron/600 grit diamond plate is roughly equivalent to a 1200 grit waterstone, and cheaper than repeated purchases of lapping film. This partners an 8000 grit waterstone. For the keen* a 10,000 grit waterstone is available. Just put the stone/plate on one of those sticky plastic 150x230mm mats made to stop plates/cups slipping on trays, or on board boats etc.

There's some useful stuff in David Charlesworth's books on this. He also suggests grinding at a bit under 25 deg, and then sharpening at @32 deg (I use 600 grit diamond) till burr raised, and a final polish at 35 deg on the 8000 grit wetstone. As few as half a dozen strokes are needed - see DC's books. The 32/35 deg are easily done with a LV veritas jig and its' special roller. Quick and prolongs life of stones!

According to 3M, grit size equivalence is as follows:
FEPA is european P grit as per wet/dry, US grit as per US diamond plates and sandpaper etc, Jap as per waterstones, and microns as measured for 3M lapping film.

Micron/USgrit /Jap /FEPA
40 /280 /400 /~360 (little coarser than)
30 /400 /~500 /800 (little coarser than)
15 /600 /1200 /1200 (little coarser than)
9 /1200 /2000 /2500 (little finer than)
5 /2000 /2500/ -
3 /4000 /4000/ -
2 /6000 /6000/ -
1 /8000 /8000/ -
0.3 /10,000 /10,000/ -

*As you can see, 0.3micron lapping film is equivalent to 10,000 grit waterstone.

The film is very good, and well worth it, on a cheap granite surface plate for flattening blades and chisels if your diamond plate is not very flat. The Ezelap ones from Tilgear are cheaper and seem to last just as long as the more expensive DMT perforated ones (as tried here)
 
Is there any system that doesn't make a mess?

WorkSharp.

I read that it works well. It will have limitations, however these may not be an issue if all you use are bevel down planes and chisels, and are not looking for highly polished edges.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Check out the latest ShopNotes for a DIY version of the worksharp. Bit too involved for me.
 
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