Water based paint, airless sprayer and orange peel

[Jake]

I don't have the battery Graco but do have a full on one, it is a brute I would not even think of spraying Helmi through. As you have a Fugi I'd try that. That finish in the photos could be bettered by a country mile with a microfibre roller and tipping off.

Proper flat needs sanding and polishing whatever you use.

 

[Tobi1186]

I´ve had the same problem a few years ago while spraying a door. That really sucks... I´ve thinned it, as some have already suggested. Still wasn´t perfect, but it was way better than before. Good luck to you!

 

[cowtown_eric]

Welcome to spraying...it's more than a little bit like alchemy!

My experience is with airless spraying is that paint must be thinned. Moreover water based paints seem to have an abrasive characteristic. I only use a "fine-Finish " tip and they don't last forever. The orifice widens, and paint consumption goes up, so atomization goes down..

I also use the finest filter I can find in the handle, and try to keep it clean, but replace when it doesn't look like it's clean enuf.

Whenever I am flumoxed by paint finish problems, I just get a new tip, check the filter and clean if required. and the problem generally resolves

Eric

 

[Tony Works Wood]

I make fitted furniture, and whilst being experienced in the joinery side of things, I have just taken up spraying.

I've bought a graco ultra airless spray gun after using my friends HVLP system which seemed to struggle to keep up with amount of paint I needed to spray (think the compressor didn't have enough power)

I have been experiencing orange peel when spraying water based paints, namely Tikkurila Helmi. I have read loads of reviews about how good the paint is, and I didn't experience the problem when using it with the HVLP system. But when I spray it with my graco I'm getting an orange peel effect. It does settle quite a bit after drying but it's still there when viewed in certain lights/angels. I've tried making sure the paint isn't too cold. Standing further away when spraying, putting the gun on a low pressure, putting the gun on a high pressure and have run out of ideas now. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I did read watering it down may help but I spray MDF and worry what it would do in terms of grain raising . I know people spray water based with airless sprayers and get a good result, I just don't know what I'm doing wrong and it's getting quite demoralising now. Here are some pictures of the paint when first applied and after 16 hours dry time.


On a side note, do all airless prayers put out a ridiculous amount of paint? I changed to an fflp 212 tip to reduce over spray but the gun just eats paint.

I've used pressure pots since 1983. Love them. Also used pumps like you have, not keen on them. I don't own any. I used to manufacture fitted furniture, I did contract finishing for another firms and also did a general furniture refinishing service. Your paints too thick or your drying room temperature is too high making the lacquer/paint flash off/skin over before it has chance to level out. Standing father away or low or high pressure is nonsense. You could dilute (water it down) the paint. Your lucky if you have to as you are getting more coverage for your £$ lol. Don't always follow the suppliers recommendations, the trades men and women doing the actual job is who you need to talk to. Cheers Tony

 

[Tony Works Wood]

Don`t have the same spray equipment so cant help there exactly. If this happens to me I find it is because i am laying it on too thick, or it is drying too fast and can`t flow out.
The temperature and airflow of the booth could be an issue, as said before try thinning it just a tiny bit.

This is why a good old toxic solvent based acid cat laquer can`t be beaten. I have gone water based and while less toxic etc I am finding it just not quite as good a finish.

Ollie

You cant beat good old tried and tested acid cat lacquer. Well said Ollie78 Cheers. Tony