I have recently had a 4 panel victorian door dipped. When I got it back the top 2 larger panels have bowed outwards creating a large bulge in the panels. As it dried they have reduced a bit but still stick out a long way. It was dried in the house, stood up, without the central heating on. This is the 6th door I have stripped like this and the first one where the panels have not gone back into shape. The panels are about 1/4 inch thick and 8 by 35 inches. One panel is a a single board, the other is 2 boards joined and has opened up on the joint. They are some sort of pine. I want to varnish them therefore don't want to take the door apart and replace the panel if i can help it. I have some thoughts on how to get them back in shape but want to know if anyone has any good ideas to help me out. :?
Warped panelled door
- Thread starter The Bear
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
MooreToolsPlease
Established Member
- Joined
- 17 Sep 2006
- Messages
- 366
- Reaction score
- 0
I would put a piece of timber across the door, and screw it outside of the door. Using packers the same thickness of the door.
Use something substantial so it wont buckle.
Then measure how much the panel has buckled.
If it has measured 4 mm then put 7/8mm of packers underneath the timber on the top and pour plenty of water over the panel.
Leave for 24 hours or so. It should have come out flat enough
I have done this before, but I will be interested to see other people ways of doing this
Use something substantial so it wont buckle.
Then measure how much the panel has buckled.
If it has measured 4 mm then put 7/8mm of packers underneath the timber on the top and pour plenty of water over the panel.
Leave for 24 hours or so. It should have come out flat enough
I have done this before, but I will be interested to see other people ways of doing this
I think that the moral of the story is really "don't dip doors". It destroys the glue and warps the timber (as you already know) and often the materials the door was made from were "paint quality" in the first place. I think I just heard a distant echo of Mr. Grimsdale :wink:
Morals aside, I want to get this door back to flat
I was thinking along the same lines as Matt. However I was thinking of cutting some thick ply to place over the panels, wet the panels and then clamp in place. Then slowly over a couple of days wind the clamps tighter there by pulling the panels flat.
I am unsure whether to keep the panels wet as I do this or whether to do it as they slowly dry out. Keeping them wet will obviously make them more flexible. However the drying process pulls the panels the right direction, but not enough.
Any ideas?
I was thinking along the same lines as Matt. However I was thinking of cutting some thick ply to place over the panels, wet the panels and then clamp in place. Then slowly over a couple of days wind the clamps tighter there by pulling the panels flat.
I am unsure whether to keep the panels wet as I do this or whether to do it as they slowly dry out. Keeping them wet will obviously make them more flexible. However the drying process pulls the panels the right direction, but not enough.
Any ideas?
MooreToolsPlease
Established Member
- Joined
- 17 Sep 2006
- Messages
- 366
- Reaction score
- 0
To get things back to flat, you need to put the panel back to beyond flat.
Typically double the twist.
Soak it in water over night, in the morning you should have flat panels.
A door I had come into the shop was twisted over an inch.
I managed to get it twisted an inch the other way, so it had moved 2 inches.
In the morning everything was nice and flat
Typically double the twist.
Soak it in water over night, in the morning you should have flat panels.
A door I had come into the shop was twisted over an inch.
I managed to get it twisted an inch the other way, so it had moved 2 inches.
In the morning everything was nice and flat
timbar
Member
You need to employ the principal of differential shrinkage: wet the CONCAVE side of the panel and dry/warm gently the CONVEX side. The damp hollow side will expand and the drying humped side will try to shrink thus pulling the panel flat. I would be suprised if this does not work pretty well. You have to use timbers natural movement tendencies, any forcing will only have a temp effect or will just cause it to crack.
Colin C
Established Member
timbar":379et3hn said:
Hi All
This is almost right but I would get some saw dust and lay it on the concaved side and wet it but dont try to put heat on the other side, I think it will cause more problem than it helps.
To do this you will have to take the door off and lay it down ( treasles if you have them and the room to do it ), leave it for a day and check it.
Make sure that the saw dust is wet, it will help control where you have the water and make sure it does not go on the rest of the door.
If you need any more help, just let me know and by the way if it does work.
You will have to clamp the panel when it is drying from both sides.
Regards Colin
timbar
Member
Yes, gently does it, even laying the door down on a damp lawn concave side down with gentle sun on top will do it!
