Wanted no more band saw picked up today - pics

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Very good find mate, well done.

Not Jealous at all.....
 
ggrranpa":3qhuwk51 said:
yes I need a depth cut of 220 plus, I had a Scheppach BASATO 4 , which I thought was crap, it could just about cut 150mm of green oak very slowly. wasn't inpressed at all with it. I need to rip oak sleepers down, for the work I do..

I know I'm coming to this thread a bit late - sorry.

What you say is interesting. I have a Besato 5, and whilst it is not the World's Greatest Bandsaw, it's not bad. It's main downside from my home-woodie point of view is its behemoth size. I had wondered about trying to sell it and buying a B4, which has only a slightly smaller capacity. What put me off was the tiny motor size - little more than half the B5 IIRC. That would appear to be borne out by your experience. I don't often resaw 10" boards, but when I do, I expect the saw to perform. That's what I paid for.
S
 
Looking at the pic of the saw, I was thinking - what a da** silly place to put the motor controls, restricting the width of the throat. Then I put my glasses on...........
Nice machine. But will stick with my 352 :)
 
Looks like a real beauty, Damian; thanks for the photos. Glad you like it and glad I was able to help. :)

Have you tried a supplier for new blades yet?

Steve, from what I've heard, Scheppach have gone downhill a little in the last eighteen months as they now source some of their bandsaw parts from the Far East... :? I'm pretty sure their machines are still assembled in Europe though. If I had a bandsaw of that size and the space to store it, I know I wouldn't even dream of down-grading! :shock: :)

The Basato 4's an odd one. 10" cutting depth on machine of that size just doesn't look right at all. It's almost like they've tried to add on too much. It is still a new addition to the Basato range. :?
 
The guy I bought it from had the big Basato, DOC, throat and table are all a little bigger though performance is about the same. He was having problems with bits breaking on his Scheppach though - think he sold the wrong saw :D

There's a place in Ponty called Dakin & Flather that do what look to be quality blades and there's a place in Cleckhuddersfax that sell them to retail (offered me a 20% discount off the bat) and can have them with me under a week. Approx 13 quid a blade for a 3.6m blade
 
Nice saw looks in good nick to me - Minimax have a good reputation.

They were selling Minimax stuff in the Startrite shop at Yandles - wonder if the come out of the same factory in Italy?


Rod
 
I thought the Besato4 was really bad it didn't resaw at all,, It really didn't resaw 6" of green oak without complaining about it. All the other stuff it did all right. For a bandsaw with such a big thoat of cut it really should do better. also the design of the rollers or disc's was crap it just didn't work at all.
The one thing I liked about it was it was portable .. But the main reason I had the bandsaw was to resaw,. so the next one I think will have to be one of the big axminster ones..
 
Harbo":2oreoc4w said:
Nice saw looks in good nick to me - Minimax have a good reputation.

They were selling Minimax stuff in the Startrite shop at Yandles - wonder if the come out of the same factory in Italy?

Minimax is SCM, who I think make all of the big Startrite table saws, combis, etc. The bandsaws are, or were, ACM - I haven't heard anything to suggest that ACM and SCM are connected, which isn't to say they aren't.

Edit: The SCM Group owns the SCM and Minimax brands (but not ACM): http://www.scmgb.co.uk/en/
 
Top saw..wish I had held out for one like it...And he gave you wood to
play with..He sounds like a top bloke..not many about but heart warming to
hear there is still some out there... :lol:
 
Ironballs":p3sxw2qx said:
There's a place in Ponty called Dakin & Flather that do what look to be quality blades and there's a place in Cleckhuddersfax that sell them to retail (offered me a 20% discount off the bat) and can have them with me under a week. Approx 13 quid a blade for a 3.6m blade

Rutlands sell Dakin Flathers blades too - their list is here. I don't know how their prices compare, but they might be worth a look.

I bought some for my Jet a while back as they were going cheap, but Rutlands seem to have changed the range they sell now and they've excluded the Jet sized ones and perhaps others :( I haven't tried them out yet though so can't comment on their quality.
 
Those Rutlands prices are a little more than the place I went to, I rang them up and gave them the precise length of blade I needed (a not insubstantial 3.6m) told them the width and tpi and whether M42 or not and they put the order in. Should have them delivered in a few days.

A 3/4" 3.6m 3tpi M42 blade cost me 41 quid. To find my nearest Dakin & Flathers supplier I emailed them direct, apparently I could have bought them through a supplier and picked them up from the factory. I'm not too bothered about seeing a bandsaw blade factory though, it's not like picking up a Holtey :D
 
DaveL":iqlogdl8 said:
For this sort of work the choice of blade is important, I have now reached the end of my knowledge :oops: as I have never ripped green oak, but I am sure someone who has will be along soon. :D

I bought a saw from Axminster a couple of years ago which looks identical to the current 5300 with the 152" inch blade, and just this week have experimented with blades and fitted a 1 1/4" 2 skip blade. It was a bit of job to get in, but the performance ripping green oak has been outstanding. I've been ripping down 175mm section with so much ease, that you could almost use just one finger to push it! The thinking behind this size blade, was that it leaves me in a position to easily be able to sharpen and set the blades myself.
The blade has also proved easily able to handle cutting the radius of te knee bracing that I use for my oak framing.

In ref to 16amp supply... Although rated at 16amp, I run the saw on a 16 amp 'blue' socket, but its still just running a straight forward 13 amp fuse layout. When the motor was new, it did trip a few times, but as the saw has become older, it isn't now a problem. But to eliminate the potential risk of problems, I tend to open the side door and give the top wheel a quick spin, close the door back up, and push the start button while the blade is turning. Okay, its not perhaps something that could be recommended safety wise, but it certainly takes out the initial load that's required to start the saw.

Sorry, this is the only photo of the saw that I have for reference, but this was the 175mm timber that I had been ripping down with the 1 1/4" bade

saw.jpg
 
STREWTH :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: That's mighty big chunks of timber,,,,,

I was going to show my 4300 slicing through pen blanks, but I've changed my mind :roll:

John. B
 
John. B":2lm0axiy said:
STREWTH :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: That's mighty big chunks of timber,,,,,

I was going to show my 4300 slicing through pen blanks, but I've changed my mind :roll:

John. B

Also, depressingly heavy to move on my own. :(
 

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