Waney edged oak as a worktop

[Kev]

Still working out my new kitchen and now on worktops. Have been looking at full stave worktops as I think they look much nicer than multi block ones in oak.

However, was wondering about using waney edged kiln dried oak boards (ie one continuous piece of wood as a worktop). Has anyone ever done this, or has views on it?

My concerns are fairly standard I guess, how prone to splitting, warping would it be etc. Would there be added problems with movement from shrinkage etc.

The end result would, I think, look much better but given the cost of planks of this width I am slightly nervous of it becoming a failed experiment. :shock:

 

[jimi43]

I would leave it up to experts like Simon to advise you on the mechanics of this project but from the aesthetics...I bet it would look simply gorgeous!!!

Good luck and if you go ahead WIP pictures are a must.

:wink:

Jim

 

[Chems]

I'd route some channels in the under side, and bolt/epoxy some big strong metal bars. No chance of cupping then hopefully. A good finish should prevent it drying out and cracking.

 

[jasonB]

I think you would have some serious movement problems accross the width which could give you issues ate any corner joints.

Cupping can be restrained but I personally would not epoxy stiffeners to teh underside as you will stop any expansion/contraction, better to use some metal angle iron with slotted holes.

I done tops with full length wide staves usually ex 150x50, these are more stable than a solid board but you still get some movement over the width. You could make up the top from about 5 boards but keep a waney edge at the front.

The other thing would be that you would want the waney edge to be reasonably perpendicular to the surface so that would require the boards cutting from near the centre of the butt and you risk the slab going through the heart of the trunk and could get shakes. And the sapwood can be a bit soft.

Jason

 

[Shane]

And make sure you use a very good finish, otherwise it'll turn black (and eventually grey) upon contact with water

 

[Chems]

You could make up the top from about 5 boards but keep a waney edge at the front.

I thought the same as you when I read it through, that he wanted a waney edge, but after thinking about it I think he just means a solid square sided piece after machining?

 

[Kev]

Yes guys, apologies for the confusion, I had just been looking at a supplier that sold kiln dried waney edge oak that would be wide enough to get a worktop out of it and not that I would keep a waney edge.

That said I remember seeing an american kitchen in a book where they had kept a waney edge and in that context (log cabin) it did look great.

I guess the other optoin is to use wide full lenght staves as suggested.

 

[woody67]

And make sure you use a very good finish, otherwise it'll turn black (and eventually grey) upon contact with water

Shane - WHY is that? Our oak table does that, especially if a metal item - especially tin if wet, comes into contact with the wood - it's a right pain in the pineapple!

Mark

 

[jimi43]

Oak does that with iron/steel hence the need for stainless or brass fittings.

It is the high levels of tannin reacting with the iron in steel:

Click here to read more.....

Jim

 

[Kev]

Shane - based on that what would you recommend as a good finish?

 

[jasonB]

The last couple of oak worktops that I have done I've used Osmo Poly-X, prefer that to teh danish oil I used to use before that.

Jason

 

[Shane]

Soz I got there late. I haven't used oak as a kitchen worktop before, I've only used solid maple or beech and used organoil food safe oil, cant remember it's proper name though, may have been the hard burnishing oil (twas a long while ago). I'm certainly gonna give the osmo a go in the future though if the need arises, thanks Jason 8)