Walnut Top Batten for Acoustic Panels

[Dizzwold]

Hi Guys,

I've purchased some Trepanel acoustic walnut wall panels, and plan on making a walnut pelmet/cornice which will also house some led strips;
https://www.wallsandfloors.co.uk/tr...h-walnut-brown-acoustic-wood-slat-wall-panels

The pelmet/cornice I plan on making would be similar to the following, but with an overall dimension of roughly 60 x 60mm;

This pelmet/cornice is going to be 3.3m long, so a full piece of walnut is going to cost around £160, yet only 30% will ever be seen.

Would it be possible or wise to just purchase a 60 x 20 plank of walnut for the front and finger route the walnut to a 40 x 50mm piece of pine both 3.3m long?

I'd be grateful for your thoughts and ideas, as it would quite a waste of walnut.

I forgot to say that this will then be screwed to the ceiling, which is slightly bowed.


Dizzwold.

 

[Fitzroy]

You don't need the finger jointing, you can just glue them together, a couple of biscuits would help with alignment.

 

[Dizzwold]

You don't need the finger jointing, you can just glue them together, a couple of biscuits would help with alignment.

Cheers @Fitzroy,

Which size would you recommend 0, 10, or 20?

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Cheers @Fitzroy,

Which size would you recommend 0, 10, or 20?

In truth, any one of those sizes would be fine because your primary purpose for using a biscuit in that circumstance is to help with alignment, not really for strength. But, if you really feel strength is important (it almost certainly isn't) then size 20 provides the most. Slainte.

 

[HOJ]

If I may be so bold to suggest you just screw them together, no real need for glue or biscuits, and as an option could you get some MDF strips to use as a backer 2 pieces of 18mm to give 36mm deep, staggered overlaps to get the length, rather than trying to make/get a 3.3m straight piece of pine.

And when you say "screwed to the bowed ceiling" where are the fixing screws going on the pelmet, through the pine or the walnut?, I would be cautious about that as you are going to have to try and bend the wood to match the bow, which will then create a bent edge on the face of the paneling, and presuming you'll have found joist/s, if they run the right way, to screw into, to bend it. In my view it would be a better job, scribing the Walnut to suit the ceiling bow.

 

[Dizzwold]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your comments and advice.
@HOJ, Yes the screws will go trough the pine, the joists are in the correct direction and all located.

I plan on putting a 10mm x 10mm strip of self adhesive EVA foam sandwiched between the ceiling and the timber, which should hopefully accommodate the bow in the ceiling so as not to remove a scallop of walnut. Weather it works well or not, or even looks okay remains to be seen, but I'd rather try the foam strips before chopping away at the walnut.
Was initially going make the walnut/pine sit snug as you suggest, but then came up with this idea

 

[Dizzwold]

@Fitzroy

We are talking normal PVA Wood glue here aren't we?

Dizzwold.

 

[Fitzroy]

@Fitzroy

We are talking normal PVA Wood glue here aren't we?

Dizzwold.

Yes

 

[Dizzwold]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your thoughts, input and advice. It's greatly appreciated.

What are your thoughts on treating the walnut?

I had thought of Danish Oil, but doesn't this need reapplying every few years?
I did read somewhere (possibly an American forum due to the product), about using Watco Dark Walnut and then some form of Top Coat

I do have to hand Rustins Dark Teak, Dark Oak and Walnut wood dyes.

 

[duke]

Also if the ceiling isn't overly bowed why not scribe the front face to the ceiling profile.

 

[Dizzwold]

Cheers @duke

I'm going to first try some EVA Foam strip to take-up the bow.

I'm not sure yet if it's just the plaster board that's dropped or if it's actually a bowed joist.

 

[J-G]

I do have to hand Rustins Dark Teak, Dark Oak and Walnut wood dyes.

Why would you even consider any of these if what you have is solid Walnut?

It so happens that my current 'project' is some lengths of Scotia out of solid ABW. I had considered using Ramin Scotia 'off the shelf' but couldn't find anyone with longer than 2.4m available. I would have stained that Walnut but the only 'finish' I'm going to apply now is Sanding Sealer & MC Wax.

Interesting aspects about costing - no one could offer Ramin - even for me to machine, Bates Timber offered Oak @£72 - Sykes offered Koto @ £295.75 !!! - I picked up a 3+m length of ABW from Whitmore's for £38 !!

 

[Dizzwold]

@J-G

Whitmores is who I actually used as I live nearby.

All I really want is to enhance the grain a little and protect it.

 

[J-G]

@J-G

Whitmores is who I actually used as I live nearby.

All I really want is to enhance the grain a little and protect it.

Hmmm . . . we could be close(ish) neighbours

. . . . but you only show 'UK' which doesn't help.

Sanding Sealer & MC Wax will 'enhance the grain'.

 

[TRITON]

I had thought of Danish Oil, but doesn't this need reapplying every few years?

Simple rule to follow when applying Danish.
Once an hour, for a day
Once a day, for a week
And once a year for the rest of its life

 

[Dizzwold]

Blimey, that opens up a minefield of options and choice.

Which should I opt for cellulose or acrylic, etc. Any preferred brands?

Very grateful for the advice.

@J-G we're about 20 miles away.

 

[J-G]

@J-G we're about 20 miles away.

Hmmm. . . I don't get to Lutterworth that often now, I used to have a customer there (until they went bust )

 

[J-G]

This may be of interest. I've made my Scotia and taken an offcut to show how I'll be finishing it.

I've 'mocked up' how it will be applied to give a better idea.

I trust that the anotations tell you enough.

 

[Dizzwold]

Ohh, wow.
Thank you for taking the time in doing that. Great example and self explanatory.

That is some nice timber too
I ordered some Chestnut cellulose sanding sealer and chestnut MC Wax from Axminster

 

[J-G]

You're more than welcome, it was a very simple 5 minute job. Sanding sealer dries in moments and though I would normally let MC Wax rest for 12+ hours, I could buff this quite quickly.

ABW is a beautiful timber to work and finishes exceedingly well. Whitmore's keep an excellent stock and the staff go out of their way to find you the best match for your job in hand.

In my case, Eliot & I selected from two separate piles which meant moving some 8 bundles with never any indication of 'hurry up'. The setup is such though that you have to book an appointment and I was there for an hour and a quarter.