Wall panelling query

[BrandonB]

Hi all,
I have an install coming up which is a section of wall to have panelling attached which is going to be the modern shaker style - meaning no traditional beading to be used around the center panels.
The question I have and one I am struggling to make my mind up about is the skirting detail. I have designed and installed wall panelling before, but I have been able extend the door frame or produce the architrave thicker to allow for the thickness of the panelling plus the skirting board. This is to prevent the skirting board sticking past the architrave. I do not have that option with this install.
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The panelling is going to be on a single wall between the architrave and the adjacent wall. There is currently skirting board attached which is 150mm H x 18mm T and my current plan is to remove the single length of skirting board and install the panelling from the floor up to the height the client has requested.
I think it will look better without the skirting board being reattached as it would stick past the architrave as the panelling is designed to be inline/flush with the front of the architrave. Attaching the skirting board to the panelling would make the skirting board stick past 18mm which would look terrible. There is a bed that will be infront of it most of the time but at the same time having no skirting board will look strange...
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The panelling make up would be 6mm for a backing piece and 9mm for the rails. I don't think leaving the skirting board on and adding the panelling on top of it will look good either as it will probably come past the profile....
Any advice or rule of thumb you usually sitck by?
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I have highlighted in red the skirting board detail.
https://freeimage.host/i/wallpanellingquery.Hfod6Ip
Thanks all!

 

[Spectric]

You could make a piece that blends the skirting, ( baseboard ) into the bottom of the architrave, again in the americans books on trim they call them plinth blocks.

https://www.thejoyofmoldings.com/about-plinth-blocks/
https://decoratedlife.com/plinth-blocks-door-trim-corbels/
From all the reading on trim what you have to do is make what you do look deliberate and intended and not like you are trying to hide or camourflage something.

 

[Doug71]

Depends on the mould on the skirting but you can mitre just the mould down to the floor if that makes any sense, it kind of closes off the skirting quite nicely and makes it look like it was meant to be. Obviously you need a short piece of spare skirting for this.
If it's bullnosed skirting just round the end to match the top.

 

[BrandonB]

Depends on the mould on the skirting but you can mitre just the mould down to the floor if that makes any sense, it kind of closes off the skirting quite nicely and makes it look like it was meant to be. Obviously you need a short piece of spare skirting for this.
If it's bullnosed skirting just round the end to match the top.

Hi, thanks for the your reply!

Yeah I did think about that as an option. It's a torus profile if I remember correctly and as you say, just mitre the profile to the floor and not back on it's self into the panelling.

It's an annoying detail which will never look perfect :/

 

[BrandonB]

You could make a piece that blends the skirting, ( baseboard ) into the bottom of the architrave, again in the americans books on trim they call them plinth blocks.

https://www.thejoyofmoldings.com/about-plinth-blocks/
https://decoratedlife.com/plinth-blocks-door-trim-corbels/
From all the reading on trim what you have to do is make what you do look deliberate and intended and not like you are trying to hide or camourflage something.

I think plinth blocks look strange, especially when they're oversized or very thick.
if it was a period building with existing plinth blocks, this could work but I dont think i'll go for this personally.

Thanks though!

 

[Inspector]

I use plinth block when I did a mission/shake style to our basement bathroom. It was new work so I didn't have to make anything fit existing. To me the key is to layer your way out. 3/8" for the verticals to define the panels. 1/2" at the corners. 3/4 for the horizontals (baseboards, dado and, door casing verticals). 1" across the top of the door (not visible in the pictures) and 1 1/2" for the plinth blocks so the shoe mouldings end against them without sticking past. I don't like the parts to all be the same thickness because it is hard to get and have everything stay flat and smooth on a wall and the visual interest is much better without being apparent. This was MDF applied to the drywall but if it was a hardwood like oak it would look even better. SWMBO wanted white so I cut up MDF sheets to make all the trim which let me make progressively wider pieces that I chose. I have showed these pictures before.

Pete

 

[BrandonB]

I use plinth block when I did a mission/shake style to our basement bathroom. It was new work so I didn't have to make anything fit existing. To me the key is to layer your way out. 3/8" for the verticals to define the panels. 1/2" at the corners. 3/4 for the horizontals (baseboards, dado and, door casing verticals). 1" across the top of the door (not visible in the pictures) and 1 1/2" for the plinth blocks so the shoe mouldings end against them without sticking past. I don't like the parts to all be the same thickness because it is hard to get and have everything stay flat and smooth on a wall and the visual interest is much better without being apparent. This was MDF applied to the drywall but if it was a hardwood like oak it would look even better. SWMBO wanted white so I cut up MDF sheets to make all the trim which let me make progressively wider pieces that I chose. I have showed these pictures before.

View attachment 148220

View attachment 148221

Pete

I can see what you mean by working your way out and by creating 3mm - 1/8" step back in order to prevent a flush edge from meeting. A rule of thumb is most small details shouldn't be flush as wood moves and it will never remain flush (eventually). I do prefer everything in one line so everything meets flush apart from your top capping and the skirting which will sit on the face and on top of the panelling. You've made a nice job of it!

 

[Spectric]

A very nice clean look @Inspector, it is sad that we cannot be bothered with the detail in so many UK homes that are all just characterless boxes built worse than many sheds for no other reason than make the shareholders money. Infact I might incorporate that look into my kitchen refurb.

 

[Doug71]

Hi, thanks for the your reply!

Yeah I did think about that as an option. It's a torus profile if I remember correctly and as you say, just mitre the profile to the floor and not back on it's self into the panelling.

It's an annoying detail which will never look perfect :/

I cut a matching profile on the end of this dado rail so it looks like it returns to the wall as I couldn't think how else to finish it, I think it turned out okay. Might work on your skirting if the panel goes to the floor and you stop the skirting say 20mm short of the architrave.

Would you call this a stopped dado

Another way would be to have the very end of the skirting going back to the wall at 45 degrees so it's not such a severe stop, cutting the end of the skirting at 22.5 degrees and putting a really short piece in back to the wall would be neater than just cutting the skirting at 45 degrees but a bit trickier!