ScottyT
Established Member
Things have moved along in the paint department, I got the top coat on the main casting, it’s looks pretty good, not perfect but i am happy with it, at the end of the day this machine will be getting hammered so it won’t stay pretty for long anyway
It’s original colour specification (pretty much anyway) and should look the ticket when it’s finished.
I now have the thickness table flipped over so i can access the rollers. Now this bit required a little bit of elbow grease, the blowtorch, some copper and assortment of hammers.
For those who are not familiar with these types of machines, the thickness table shown above (upside down in this photo) has a roller system built with in it to facilitate the smooth running of stock through the machine when using the feed gear, it works by a hand wheel at the infeed table that when turned raises and lowers two rollers positioned either side of the cutter block, if your running some nice dry Douglas Fir thorough though the table the wheels can be in a position that’s more or less flat with the machines surface of the table as the stock will tend not to get stuck.
If however your machining a dirty piece of green oak that’s 6” wide it’ll be wanting to stick itself to the bed, friction is your enemy here, but in these circumstances you can raise the rollers within the bed to ‘break’ the friction and greatly improve the feed, we’re talking 0.3 projection above the table.
It’s a simple enough system, but this has seen 62 English winters and it’s all a little bit corroded and seized.
There are two collars, one at either end of a steel bar, they do two jobs, retain the bar itself, and they are also the cams for the raising and lower of the rollers that are positioned directly below in this photo, or directly above in normal orientation.
They are held with 1/8 hex grub screws, and are also keyed to the shaft. This was an issue as it wasn’t just a case of hitting the bar on the outside of the casting, the keys were hitting the casting from the inside, so I had to move atleast one collar Inbound, remove the key and only them would it allow me to withdraw it from one end. Took me about an hour to do one, lots of heat, a large hammer, a small pien and some copper slips and a copper drift got the job done.
I even had to heat the keys out, they were a bugger to persuade out.
Once I got one end out I withdrew it and then smacked the other cam/retainer and actuator casting off the other end but inboard of the table.
A good afternoon spent whilst also doing my favourite job in the world, knocking on reams and reams of cedar shingles on a curved roof. Lovely. I’m hoping to have the table painted by the weekend, it’s a substantial piece of kit, it should look great when it’s painted.
Scotty
It’s original colour specification (pretty much anyway) and should look the ticket when it’s finished.
I now have the thickness table flipped over so i can access the rollers. Now this bit required a little bit of elbow grease, the blowtorch, some copper and assortment of hammers.
For those who are not familiar with these types of machines, the thickness table shown above (upside down in this photo) has a roller system built with in it to facilitate the smooth running of stock through the machine when using the feed gear, it works by a hand wheel at the infeed table that when turned raises and lowers two rollers positioned either side of the cutter block, if your running some nice dry Douglas Fir thorough though the table the wheels can be in a position that’s more or less flat with the machines surface of the table as the stock will tend not to get stuck.
If however your machining a dirty piece of green oak that’s 6” wide it’ll be wanting to stick itself to the bed, friction is your enemy here, but in these circumstances you can raise the rollers within the bed to ‘break’ the friction and greatly improve the feed, we’re talking 0.3 projection above the table.
It’s a simple enough system, but this has seen 62 English winters and it’s all a little bit corroded and seized.
There are two collars, one at either end of a steel bar, they do two jobs, retain the bar itself, and they are also the cams for the raising and lower of the rollers that are positioned directly below in this photo, or directly above in normal orientation.
They are held with 1/8 hex grub screws, and are also keyed to the shaft. This was an issue as it wasn’t just a case of hitting the bar on the outside of the casting, the keys were hitting the casting from the inside, so I had to move atleast one collar Inbound, remove the key and only them would it allow me to withdraw it from one end. Took me about an hour to do one, lots of heat, a large hammer, a small pien and some copper slips and a copper drift got the job done.
I even had to heat the keys out, they were a bugger to persuade out.
Once I got one end out I withdrew it and then smacked the other cam/retainer and actuator casting off the other end but inboard of the table.
A good afternoon spent whilst also doing my favourite job in the world, knocking on reams and reams of cedar shingles on a curved roof. Lovely. I’m hoping to have the table painted by the weekend, it’s a substantial piece of kit, it should look great when it’s painted.
Scotty