Wadkin ASG10 crosscut/mitre fence

[Mead Camans]

Hi all,

Does anyone own a Wadkin ASG? And if so, what do you do for a crosscut and/or mitre fence? I've just bought one and it didn't come with its original, so I'm looking for other options.

There are lots of after-market mitre fences out there obviously, but these tend to be a bit on the puny side, so I was wondering if other folk use anything better?

Cheers,

George

 

[deema]

Sounds like you’ve got yourself one of the classic saws, is it a restoration project or a user?
There were a few variants of the saw, some were prepared for a sliding table, and others not. If you’ve a picture of the LHS of the saw if you don’t know it’s easy to see if it is.

Very very rarely a Wadkin sliding table comes up on eBay. Failing that it is possible to buy a scrapper saw for not a lot that has an original sliding table. I’ve done it once.

The Wadkin mitre fence again comes up occasionally on auction sites.

 

[Mead Camans]

Got it on ebay fully refurbished! Really nice piece of kit and runs really smooth. I'll have a look at the side of it next time I'm in the workshop and see what's what. Cheers!

 

[Fitzroy]

I have an AGS10 and built a crosscut sled for it, lots of designs on YouTube. I find it very convenient and one of my most used bits of kit.

Fitz

 

[SamTheJarvis]

If it's a 3/4 x 3/8" slot, incra mitre fences will work, that said you may be paying a good percentage of what you paid for the saw on a mitre fence.

 

[julianf]

I think mine is one of the incra ones.

I see no point in buying a wadkin one.

Indeed I had most of a wadkin one and sold it as I always used the incra.

I like old British cast iron as it's great value against anything modern, but there is absolutely no point in buying some accessory or other at "collectibles" pricing when a new part will do the job better.

 

[julianf]

Just checked my invoices. Incra 1000se. On a wadkin ags10 from somtime late 1970s.

 

[katellwood]

Look at the banggood website. I bought one and fits a treat nice bit of kit too
https://banggood.app.link/ruAMQm7Wwcb

 

[partsandlabour]

The Wadkin mitre fence that came with mine is nothing particularly special. You're not missing out on much!

As a side note, are you folks using the original main fence on your AGS10? Mine has the front and rear clamping design which I find to be a bit hit/miss. I'm looking for something more modern/functional.

 

[julianf]

The Wadkin mitre fence that came with mine is nothing particularly special. You're not missing out on much!

As a side note, are you folks using the original main fence on your AGS10? Mine has the front and rear clamping design which I find to be a bit hit/miss. I'm looking for something more modern/functional.

I have the front and back style fence on mine.

My whole saw is a collection of bits as the courier dropped my first one, and the fence was smashed.

I accquired an ags250 fence and rail (same as fitted to the last of the ags10) but then accquired a front to back fence as well, before I had a chance to fit the ags250 one (which required drilling the side of the table for screw holes)

The ags250 is said to be a far superior fence but, really, I've found no real issue with the front to back one.

The scale is all in Imperial and I always have to think a bit harder than I'd like when using it, but if I need it accurate, I make a test cut and measure, and then adjust.

For work I cut metal. I can get to within about 0.05mm of intended dimension with care. What's that in old money, about 2 thou?

The wadkin isn't on that level but I'd say I can keep to within 0.3 or so of intended if I pay some attention, possibly even better.


Nothing is perfect. On a CNC mill the cutters ware constantly so the dimensional accuracy is always changing. It's about realising evreything is moving and reclaibrating as often as is needed for the degree of accuracy that you need.

I'd say the same about the wadkin fence really. I don't pay any real attention to the scale on the fence, but just adjust to the work that I need.

That's my take on it anyway.

 

[partsandlabour]

Ouch! Couriers- guaranteed to ruin your day!

Cutters wearing and changing dimension. Always good to be aware of. I reckon I'd want to do better then 0.3mm on a decent table saw though.

My issue with the front/back clamp fence is that I'm never convinced that it locks itself in the same position regards being parallel to the saw blade (though I always like to leave it very slightly open at the back of the blade). maybe I need to spend some time fine tuning this. I stripped and rebuilt the saw itself to be running sweetly, but never touched the fence.

If you're up for moving the AGS250 fence on please give me a shout - I'd be interested in buying that.

Cheers!

 

[MusicMan]

I have to original front/back fence on my older style ags10. I find it excellent. I think I might have adjusted the tensions a bit looking at the drawings in the manual to get it to clamp soundly, but that was years ago and it hasn't shifted. As far as the measurements go, you have to change the zero point when you put a different kerf blade on, but one test cut sorts that out. The fine adjustment still (just!) has enough cogs left to work OK, and It is reproducible to 0.1 mm I think.

I use the fence as a carrier for a short fence that stops in the middle of the blade, much better for ripping wood (I don't do much sheet goods on it).

Keith

 

[partsandlabour]

I have the front and back style fence on mine.

My whole saw is a collection of bits as the courier dropped my first one, and the fence was smashed.

I accquired an ags250 fence and rail (same as fitted to the last of the ags10) but then accquired a front to back fence as well, before I had a chance to fit the ags250 one (which required drilling the side of the table for screw holes)

The ags250 is said to be a far superior fence but, really, I've found no real issue with the front to back one.

The scale is all in Imperial and I always have to think a bit harder than I'd like when using it, but if I need it accurate, I make a test cut and measure, and then adjust.

For work I cut metal. I can get to within about 0.05mm of intended dimension with care. What's that in old money, about 2 thou?

The wadkin isn't on that level but I'd say I can keep to within 0.3 or so of intended if I pay some attention, possibly even better.


Nothing is perfect. On a CNC mill the cutters ware constantly so the dimensional accuracy is always changing. It's about realising evreything is moving and reclaibrating as often as is needed for the degree of accuracy that you need.

I'd say the same about the wadkin fence really. I don't pay any real attention to the scale on the fence, but just adjust to the work that I need.

That's my take on it anyway.

I have to original front/back fence on my older style ags10. I find it excellent. I think I might have adjusted the tensions a bit looking at the drawings in the manual to get it to clamp soundly, but that was years ago and it hasn't shifted. As far as the measurements go, you have to change the zero point when you put a different kerf blade on, but one test cut sorts that out. The fine adjustment still (just!) has enough cogs left to work OK, and It is reproducible to 0.1 mm I think.

I use the fence as a carrier for a short fence that stops in the middle of the blade, much better for ripping wood (I don't do much sheet goods on it).

Keith

Hmmm.. you guys have talked me into giving the front/back fence another go. Time to fettle it up.

Apologies for hijacking your thread with my fence chat George

 

[MusicMan]

Good! Send us pics so we can help!