Wadkin 12BFT planer

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Hi All,
I'm a Brit who's recently moved to BC, Canada to re-establish my business and I have recently bought a Wadkin Bursgreen 12 BFT out here. It would appear that it needs attention as the tables are slightly inverted causing a convex cut - the firm I bought it from picked it up with a forklift using strops around the tables, so I want to check for damage but can't see how to remove the tables without pulling the whole machine apart. Dalton-Wadkin have not been very helpful and I can't find any literature on this model other than the free download PDF on the Dalton wadkin site.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Dan,

Hopefully someone with direct experience will be along shortish, I have the Wadkin BFT 9, however it is not the exact same design so what I say may not be valid. I managed to disassemble it without a manual, taking plenty of photos on the way. On the 9" version you do have to pretty much take the whole thing apart to get the tables off. You can't remove a table with the thing standing, you have to flip it on it's back and take the stand off, then the body comes away from the tables.

Th 9" version has an exploded diagram in the manual, which I thought may be missing from the Dalton's scan, but looking at this original manual on ebay it seems there is no such diagram
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WADKIN-BU...L-12-BFT-HAND-FEED-PLANER-RR773-/172253403143

Scott and Sargeant have a manual for sale for the BFT 16, which looks like the same design, but there is no indication if you'll get an exploded diagram in it.

I was sure I had seen an exploded image of the 12" version when researching my 9" but if I did I can't locate it for the life of me now, darn!

F.
 
Fitzroy,

Would you mind sending some of the photo's? I know the construction is slightly different, but I believe they used the same/similar travelway mechanism.

I'm sure there are only 4 bolts per table holding them down - you can get to 2 bolts on each table but not the other two..........I'm wondering if you can get to them if the cutter block is removed???? I really don't want to dissemble the whole machine!
 
Dan,

Unfortunately the photos were all on a digital camera that I lost, except one from my phone showing the final carnage, below but low res. I do however have a pretty good memory of how it all went together and with the diagram from Wadkin i'm half way through building a sketchup model of how the table connects to the 'frame'. Limited daylight in Aberdeen at the moment so need to crack on with some outside jobs, but should finish the model tonight and I'll send it to you.

Cheers

F.

The wadkin in pieces, yes that is my hall floor, no the wife was not happy.
Wadkin 9 BFT Pieces.jpg
 

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Right then, dusted off the sketchup skills.

The model is of one side of the planer, and shows how a table (yellow) attaches to the 'head' (blue). This is not perfectly to dimension as it's pretty cobbled together.
9 BFT 1.jpg

Hiding the side and top of the table, reveals the upper face of the head. The orange bits are the medal slides that sit in a semicircular channel in the head and table. All the yellow bits are part of the table and are attached by other structures, ribs etc, to the underside of the table.

The table moves up and down by turning the black knob, the knob is on the end of a threaded bar, the red is actually a double lock nut, the bar screws through a brass block (dark blue) that is restricted by the green castle like structure. As the knob and screw are essentially connected to the table, whilst the castle is bolted to the head, any movement in the screw causes the table to slide up and down the slides. The pink part of the mechanism is the lock, the pink bar is on sprung bolts through the head and has a con-rod that goes through the head.
9 BFT 2.jpg

The con-rod has a piece on the other end with a large hole in it, through this hole a bar runs. The bar is basically a long cam and when the locking handle is moved the cam rotates, pulling the con-rod that pulls the pink bar tight down on top of the slides, hence locking the table in place.
9 BFT 3.jpg

View with part of head hidden. Damn! Just realised the slides are bolted to the table not the head, too late to redo the model now, will sort it tomorrow. It's amazing how you realise your errors when you talk a mechanism through and realise it won't work how it's drawn.
9 BFT 4.jpg


In theory you can unbolt the sprung bolts (pink), disconnect the con-rod which should only be finger tight, loosen the locking nut (red) and screw the knob and threaded bar out, you can then lift the tables off.

My problem was that access is dire to the locking nuts on the threaded bar, and the con-rod bolt was rusted tight and i could not work out how to get a spanner on it. So I had to take the whole head and table structure off the base and flip it on its back (two person lift), undo the castle structure, drive out the cam-bar, which gave me the access to the con-rod, free the bolt, I could then pull the whole lot off and get at the locking nuts on the threaded bar.

If you want the sketch-up file let me know and I'll pm it to you once I've corrected the slides bolting to the table not the head.

Regards

Fitz.

PS. All these parts can be seen on the exploded diagram in the Wadkin 9 BFT pdf file, however it's not obvious how it really goes together until you've skinned your knuckles taking it apart. Part 43 is the castle structure, locate that and you'll be able to see how my model and the Wadkin drawing align.
 

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SU is all self taught and I know I do so many things in a cack handed way that I don't think sharing my approach would be the best way to learn. There are a bunch of vids on you-tube that would be a better way to learn. I started using it when I was buying a new house, relocation from Russia to London, and trying to workout if my furniture would fit so if to pay to have it shipped or leave it behind. The only thing I would say is break what you are making in to bits then make each bit and turn it into a component/group, then work on the next bit, this way you can edit each bit. My first time it was all one group and as soon as I moved anything it skewed everything else.

F.
 
Thanks for all the info Fitzroy - i'm very greatful.

I have managed to get the tables off without pulling the whole machine apart - It did require removing the cutter block and becoming a contortionist for a few hours.......but it is possible to remove the tables without removing the base and turning the whole thing upside down.

P1000258 small.jpg


It would appear the initial problem was caused by some idjut jamming pieces of arborite/laminate under the rear end of the rear table, had I known this I could of just loosened the table and removed them. However, I removed both tables and went through everything I could get to. I now have the tables back in place and set with a tolerance of only 15 thou difference on the levels, once the cutter block goes back in it should be as good as it gets.

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Glad you got it sorted, wouldn't have liked to have tried turning that lump over! Interesting that the tables unbolt from the sliding carriage. That design would make it very easy to shim the tables if they do ever go out of true.

F.
 
Hello fitz, could you send me that sketchup model at my email I would love to get my hand on those sketchup drawings. I've been fixing an old 12 inch wadkin bft and I'm having a **** of time getting the two table coplanar. Great help. Thanks a bunch.

Q.
 
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