Vices - Fitting a Record Bench Vice

[rspsteve]

My 52 1/2 is winging its way to me perfect timing for the fitting guide ..thanks PaulM.

Not even built a bench yet...lol

Steve

 

[John15]

Hi Paul,
I've only just seen this post - not sure how I missed it. You have inspired me to try and fix an old Record vice to the end of my bench as you have done. However the bench sub-frame plus top depth amounts to 145mm and the sub-frame is only 75mm from the end of the top so it may not be possible. I will be checking it later.
Many thanks for the inspiration,
John

 

[DannyEssex]

Thanks for this Paul, perfect for me ATM,

I originally bodged the fitting of my 52 1/2 and today set about fitting it properly. My arms are killing me from trying to hold the vice in position, and the tip about holding it in place with a length of wood is brilliant.

Cheers mate (hammer)

 

[paulm]

Glad it helped Danny, picked up the idea somewhere else myself, simple but works a treat

Cheers, Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

Paul..
What shade of Hammerite did you use. It looks about right for my Paramo vice. (I take it you didn't use the 'crackle' finish Hammerite.

Cheers
John

 

[Phil Pascoe]

QD90 by Blackfriars is thought by many to be a better metal paint.

 

[Benchwayze]

I have to take your word for that Phil, but it's the shade I am after. The Paramo is a 'Cambridge Blue' if anything, as opposed to Record's Oxford Blue.

I found some that looks about right. I'll risk buying 1/2 litre.


Thanks Phil.

 

[paulm]

Not sure John, I think the can is probably still in the workshop in a cupboard somewhere, (I don't throw much away !) so I'll have a look and let you know later.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Paul. No hurry of course. I haven't ordered the Blackfriars just yet. I am looking forward to getting my old vice back in commission though!

 

[paulm]

Hi John,

Just popped out the workshop to have a look and it's Hammerite Smooth of course, and it's Blue, no other fancy name for the colour or anything so I'm guessing they only do the one shade ?

Hope that helps.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi John,

Just popped out the workshop to have a look and it's Hammerite Smooth of course, and it's Blue, no other fancy name for the colour or anything so I'm guessing they only do the one shade ?

Hope that helps.

Cheers, Paul

That was nice of you Paul, and I am obliged. Either/or then. It is not going onto metal that is to be exposed, so the least expensive will do. Three nice coats should do it, and barely touch the level of paint! It will see me out I reckon.

Thanks again.

John

 

[sneggysteve]

I think this thread will go on forever. Picked up a Record 52 last night and will be using the excellent guidance. Many thanks

 

[cgarry]

I know I am giving further life to an old thread, but since this great thread guided me through fitting a vice to my bench I thought this was a good place to ask a related question.

What is a good finish to use for the (oak in my case) vice jaws? The original post says Danish oil was used by I have read various reports of this remaining tacky for quite some time.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[paulm]

Hi Chris, danish oil is fine and won't stay sticky if you wipe off any surplus after ten minutes or so, it will dry hard in one to two days, maybe quicker if warm. It does make the jaws a little shiney/slippery though, so maybe just leave them untreated and see how you get on ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[AndyT]

I know I am giving further life to an old thread, but since this great thread guided me through fitting a vice to my bench I thought this was a good place to ask a related question.

What is a good finish to use for the (oak in my case) vice jaws? The original post says Danish oil was used by I have read various reports of this remaining tacky for quite some time.

Cheers,
Chris

I'd say that there is no need for a finish at all.

If you must use something, just use whatever you are using on the rest of the bench. (I used boiled linseed oil as it's cheap and easy).

But Danish oil will only be tacky if it's applied wrong. The essentials are to mix it very thoroughly (beware of a near-solid layer at the bottom of an old tin), wipe it on, wait an hour, then wipe off thoroughly. If you leave a thick layer, just the upper surface cures, sealing in the rest underneath - hence the tackiness.

 

[Paul Chapman]

What is a good finish to use for the (oak in my case) vice jaws?

Best to use no finish at all but to line the wooden jaws with leather. This will provide excellent grip. A good source of suitable leather would be a chamois leather as sold by car accessory shops such as Halfords for washing cars. You could stick it down with contact adhesive.

Richard Maguire wrote a good piece about this in his blog http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=757

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[cgarry]

Good to know that it is user error that causes Danish oil to go tacky, no need to avoid it in the future. I am going to go with leaving the jaws untreated for now, though I do like the idea of a chamois leather lining.

Thanks for your help guys.

Chris

 

[DTR]

What is a good finish to use for the (oak in my case) vice jaws?

Best to use no finish at all but to line the wooden jaws with leather. This will provide excellent grip. A good source of suitable leather would be a chamois leather as sold by car accessory shops such as Halfords for washing cars. You could stick it down with contact adhesive.

Richard Maguire wrote a good piece about this in his blog http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=757

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I did have much success with the chamois, it got torn to bits after not too long. I wonder whether thick, hard leather would be harder wearing?

 

[Benchwayze]

What is a good finish to use for the (oak in my case) vice jaws?

Best to use no finish at all but to line the wooden jaws with leather. This will provide excellent grip. A good source of suitable leather would be a chamois leather as sold by car accessory shops such as Halfords for washing cars. You could stick it down with contact adhesive.

Richard Maguire wrote a good piece about this in his blog http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=757

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I did have much success with the chamois, it got torn to bits after not too long. I wonder whether thick, hard leather would be harder wearing?

Yes it is Dave. Just find a 'cobbler' and buy some 'sole' leather. It was good enough for Krenov... etc...

I used 1/4" Hardboard though, dimpled side outwards. But you can't get it no more! (AFAIK that is)

 

[DTR]

Yes it is Dave. Just find a 'cobbler' and buy some 'sole' leather. It was good enough for Krenov... etc...

A cobbler... of course! Thanks for the tip