Vevor tools

[crazybluething]

I am just trying to set up my workshop so money is quite tight as I need almost everything, I have just seen Vevor wood turning tools on ebay at a very reasonable price, has anyone got these tool? What are they like are they a waste of money
Thanks Ian

 

[recipio]

Yes, they are made in China and will probably break. Just buy a few UK made turning tools as you need them and they will last a lifetime. I never buy anything made in China now having learnt the hard way.

 

[kinverkid]

I have no experience with Vevor turning tools but, I suspect that if you bought one of these sets you will probably, very quickly, learn how to sharpen turning tools because my feeling is that you will constantly have to return to the grinder to put a new edge on. That's possibly not a bad thing. You will also learn what tools you will want to replace with better-quality ones and which ones you will never use. Good quality turning tools are expensive so buying one only to find you never use it is doubly expensive. So, the predicament is do you buy cheap and learn what to replace (and how to sharpen) or take a chance on buying an expensive tool that you will probably use but may not. I can tell you that I bought a cheap set from a fair in 1980 when I started turning before replacing the ones I used most over the years. The cheap ones have been re-ground into various obscure shapes over the forty-odd but they are still around.

 

[crazybluething]

I have no experience with Vevor turning tools but, I suspect that if you bought one of these sets you will probably, very quickly, learn how to sharpen turning tools because my feeling is that you will constantly have to return to the grinder to put a new edge on. That's possibly not a bad thing. You will also learn what tools you will want to replace with better-quality ones and which ones you will never use. Good quality turning tools are expensive so buying one only to find you never use it is doubly expensive. So, the predicament is do you buy cheap and learn what to replace (and how to sharpen) or take a chance on buying an expensive tool that you will probably use but may not. I can tell you that I bought a cheap set from a fair in 1980 when I started turning before replacing the ones I used most over the years. The cheap ones have been re-ground into various obscure shapes over the forty-odd but they are still around.

Thanks for your reply and for your insight

 

[crazybluething]

Yes, they are made in China and will probably break. Just buy a few UK made turning tools as you need them and they will last a lifetime. I never buy anything made in China now having learnt the hard way.

Thank you, I think ill buy British

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Round skews and scrapers you can make yourself from easily obtainable HSS. Gouges? Buy once - Crown Cryo. Ashley Iles possibly second on my list followed by H. Taylor, R. Sorby and Record Power. They're all good.

 

[niall Y]

At about £5/£6 a chisel you can't really expect much. The worth of a turning chisel rests firmly in the quality of steel used. I might, however, risk trying out their carbide tipped ones, where one isn't relying on the steel to do the cutting.

As for the Vevor label itself, they seem to be offering quite a range if tools and fittings. Including pressure vessels and heavy duty drawer runners. And, having tried out their drawer runners, I can only say that I was impressed with the performance, as well as the price.

 

[spanner48]

Go on flEabay, and look for old British turnoing tools.

 

[crazybluething]

At about £5/£6 a chisel you can't really expect much. The worth of a turning chisel rests firmly in the quality of steel used. I might, however, risk trying out their carbide tipped ones, where one isn't relying on the steel to do the cutting.

As for the Vevor label itself, they seem to be offering quite a range if tools and fittings. Including pressure vessels and heavy duty drawer runners. And, having tried out their drawer runners, I can only say that I was impressed with the performance, as well as the price.

Good to know thank you

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Go on flEabay, and look for old British turning tools.

Don't be afraid of carbon steel tools. C.S. stuff fetches little money now as it's thought to be inferior - it's only downside really is that it blunts more quickly that HSS. It can actually take a better edge for specialist jobs - I keep a C.S. skew for final finishing cuts, but for bowl and spindle gouges HSS is better. If you grind tools, remember C.S. needs to be quenched before it gets too hot or the temper is lost, but HSS stuf shouldn't be quenched at all - it can crack.
I do quench HSS for major regrinds, though, I just quench to stop it getting hot in the first place.

 

[J-G]

but HSS stuf shouldn't be quenched at all - it can crack.
I do quench HSS for major regrinds, though, I just quench to stop it getting hot in the first place.

I've said this before Phil - - - HSS should always be quenched - - - BUT it should never be allowed to take on even a light-straw colour due to heat.

Your assertion seems to me to be an oxymoron - certainly a contradiction - "never quench - I do" ??

 

[Phil Pascoe]

HSS should always be quenched? I think you've your steels mixed up.

OK, my bad - I should have said cooled not quenched.

 

[Inspector]

While keeping HSS from getting too hot by cooling often is best, HSS was developed to cut and hold edges while approaching red hot in metal machining. I have seen lots of cutters that had blue edges, still sharp and cutting metal. If when sharpening you do get some edge colour as long as you let it air cool there will be no damage to the edge. If you dip it in water while sizzling hot it will get microscopic cracks that make it wear off faster. So Phil's remarks in post 10 are correct. If you use the right wheels and dress them often so they cut and don't rub you will find it difficult, not impossible though, to get colour changes to the edge of HSS and if you do it doesn't matter.

Pete

 

[Bingy man]

I am just trying to set up my workshop so money is quite tight as I need almost everything, I have just seen Vevor wood turning tools on ebay at a very reasonable price, has anyone got these tool? What are they like are they a waste of money
Thanks Ian

I can’t speak for turning tools as I don’t turn . However I have purchased a large electric core drill that supposedly has a clutch but I found in use there was no evidence of this . The drill itself is decent heavy duty and has easily drilled out several 5 “ holes in engineering brick . I also have a steel post puller ,, a huge 4 ton rachet puller and a pressure tester for pipework and I’ve had no issues with the quality of these products . Nb vevor had a massive product recall of several of their products a while ago but none of my products were affected. So in short I would recommend them and I’d definitely buy from them again- even the customer support is pretty good compared to some uk companies..

 

[J-G]

HSS should always be quenched? I think you've your steels mixed up.

OK, my bad - I should have said cooled not quenched.

Not a 'Bad' Phil - - - it's down to nomenclature. (Again, I've said this before) the term 'Quench' can (is?) often mis-interpreted. In a hardening shop 'quenching' will be done in oil, water, sand etc. depending upon the material being worked.

When in a machine shop, and preparing turning tools, I would use the term to mean simply dunking the tool in a vessel of water as soon as it is too hot to handle - well before getting anywhere near a colour.

I have never disputed the fact that HSS can 'crack' if 'quenched' from a 'red heat'.

Another factor in this discussion could be that I'm primarily talking about metal working tools where my fingers are very close to the 'sharp end' of the tool (so I know when it's 'hot') rather than wood-working gouges where the wooden handle protects the operator.

 

[Robbo3]

Another factor in this discussion could be that I'm primarily talking about metal working tools where my fingers are very close to the 'sharp end' of the tool (so I know when it's 'hot') rather than wood-working gouges where the wooden handle protects the operator.

I've never seen anyone grind a wood turning chisel holding it by the handle only. There are normally one or two fingers on the metal but they may be too far down to recognise the amount of heat at the tip.

I am just trying to set up my workshop so money is quite tight as I need almost everything, I have just seen Vevor wood turning tools on ebay at a very reasonable price, has anyone got these tool? What are they like are they a waste of money
Thanks Ian

If you mean EBay item number:394183483528 @ £44.38, I'll buck the trend & say go for them. They are High Speed Steel & will get you started on your journey.
Note ;There is no bowl gouge in the set. The only tool I would advise in addition is a spindle roughing gouge ..... or a half inch bowl gouge which will do double duty as a spindle roughing gouge.

 

[crazybluething]

I've never seen anyone grind a wood turning chisel holding it by the handle only. There are normally one or two fingers on the metal but they may be too far down to recognise the amount of heat at the tip.


If you mean EBay item number:394183483528 @ £44.38, I'll buck the trend & say go for them. They are High Speed Steel & will get you started on your journey.
Note ;There is no bowl gouge in the set. The only tool I would advise in addition is a spindle roughing gouge ..... or a half inch bowl gouge which will do double duty as a spindle roughing gouge.

Yes those are the ones with all the other replies I decided to just buy a couple of good quality Marples chisels to get me started a roughing gouge and a scraper ill buy some more when I know what I need, thanks for your input I appreciate it

 

[crazybluething]

I can’t speak for turning tools as I don’t turn . However I have purchased a large electric core drill that supposedly has a clutch but I found in use there was no evidence of this . The drill itself is decent heavy duty and has easily drilled out several 5 “ holes in engineering brick . I also have a steel post puller ,, a huge 4 ton rachet puller and a pressure tester for pipework and I’ve had no issues with the quality of these products . Nb vevor had a massive product recall of several of their products a while ago but none of my products were affected. So in short I would recommend them and I’d definitely buy from them again- even the customer support is pretty good compared to some uk companies..

Hi thanks for your reply I have bought a couple of good chisels now but am considering one of there chuck

 

[crazybluething]

While keeping HSS from getting too hot by cooling often is best, HSS was developed to cut and hold edges while approaching red hot in metal machining. I have seen lots of cutters that had blue edges, still sharp and cutting metal. If when sharpening you do get some edge colour as long as you let it air cool there will be no damage to the edge. If you dip it in water while sizzling hot it will get microscopic cracks that make it wear off faster. So Phil's remarks in post 10 are correct. If you use the right wheels and dress them often so they cut and don't rub you will find it difficult, not impossible though, to get colour changes to the edge of HSS and if you do it doesn't matter.

Pete

Hi thanks please could you explain briefly "the right wheels" to use

 

[Inspector]

Hi thanks please could you explain briefly "the right wheels" to use

Most grinders come with tough wheels made for basic iron/steel grinding like bevelling edges before welding. They have a tough bond so they don't wear easily. Problem with them is they will grind hot and you are more likely to heat the edges of your tool. You want wheels that have a friable bond so they wear and expose new cutting edges so cut cooler. You should still dress the wheels often. Take off a thin layer of dulled grit to keep them sharp. That is done most often with diamond dressing tools. The wheels you want should be Aluminium Oxide, most often white but not limited to. A 60 or 80 grit for fast grinding, shaping the tool, with 120 or 150 grit for sharpening. If you only want to get one the 120 will serve. You could get CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels but they are about triple the cost and would be something to consider when you have worn out the abrasive wheels and you are doing lots of turning. You'll have to search out sellers in the UK as it is hard for me to recommend any particular one. I prefer 8"/200mm diameter wheels but many are happy with 6"/150mm.

Pete