Very clever but a bit scary!!!

[seaco]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/artic ... aper_legs/

 

[Karl]

Think i'd rather stick to the TS/BS ! Looks too unsteady for me, particularly the 2nd cut.

And how many of us have got a machine which can take off 3/8"???

Cheers

Karl

 

[Pete Howlett]

Brilliant - not too scary because you use push sticks and slow measured feed.

 

[joiner_sim]

This looks like a great idea. The second cut looks a bit dodgey. I hate having to bevel wall posts for bay windows, where I tend to remove 10mm at a time. 9mm on a planer doing this technique, looks safer on the video, han I think it actually would be. If the timber kicks back could be injury. :roll:

 

[Mr Ed]

Very clever, never even ocurred to me to do that, not that my planer would do it anyway. Plus I spend so long pratting about aligning my outfeed table correctly that I'd be reluctant to change it for an operation like this.

Cheers, Ed.

 

[Pete Howlett]

Hey you guys stop dissing it - it is the American way and it is jolly good. If you are careful and have got the grain direction on your stock right there would be no kick-back or problems. If you saw some of the things I did in my workshop your hair would stand on end - it's all a matter of being careful and besides, I think I've seen this before...

 

[joiner_sim]

Although I question the safety aspect of this, I can see myself having a go at this next time I need a taper for table legs. :roll:

 

[wizer]

erm I don't understand why on earth you'd use that method? I'm not one for bleating on about safety, but that method is dangerous. Apart from that, it's long and drawn out. Why would you bother? The TS or bandsaw it much easier, quicker, safer and much more repeatable than that. It's just finding a way to do something for the sake of an article.

 

[MikeG.]

Well, I reckon the most my machine would remove in one pass would be 5 or 6 mm, meaning a maximum taper of 10 to 12mm.......probably not enough to bother trying this.

Could someone give this a go, then post about how they got on...........assuming of course that there is an internet connection in the Accident and Emergency Dept!!!

Mike

 

[joiner_sim]

haha! :roll: I probably won't try it! Just thought I'd see if anyone was bothered about me having my 10 fingers still. Talking about planers.... my home workshop planer can take off zero. As I don't have one at home. But the One we have in the commercial shop is from italy I think, and I think it can take off about 20mm, although that is probably too much to be hand fed, as I already said, I take 10mm off at a time when planing bevels on bay window posts.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi guys,

I sometimes think that some of you guys are a little too nervous when it comes to techniques that are potentially a little dodgy but with this one I'm right with you :shock: :shock: !!!

The potential for disaster far outways any advantages the guy mentioned. I reckon a bandsaw and plane would do this better and safer any day!!

It's also worth pointing out that he's got a serious bit of kit there. Properly tuned, very powerful and with new razor sharp blades!!!

Cheers,

Richard

 

[Pete Howlett]

Ahh, you're just a bunch of cissies :wink: Seriously, if you know what you are doing and everything is set up right it'll work out fine. Do I suspect a little anti-American sentiment? However, not atechnique to use when your blood sugar level is low 8)

 

[Green]

This is an old trick.

A guy I used to work with planed his thumb in half (length-ways) doing this, the timber kicked away from under his hand and his hand dropped into the blade (no guards). The worst bit was him unwrapping the towel and trying to show me the wound as I was driving him to hospital. We never found any trace of thumb in the machine. Nothing.

Stay alert folks

 

[joiner_sim]

Our shavings get picked up by a farmer, and when one of the guys lost the end of there finger we reckon the pigs on the farm had it for lunch!

 

[wizer]

I'm honestly not Anti-American, probably quite the opposite seeing as I'm a wood whisperer groupie. I just think the danger level in this 'trick' is high and it's rather pointless seeing as other tools do it better and quicker. It's not even as if you'd do this because you didn't have any other tools to do it. If you've got a jointer, then your bound to have either a TS or BS or Both.

 

[joiner_sim]

Speed, quality and skill are no compromise to safety. :!:

:!: Woodwork wether for money or nothing, should always be treated seriously in respect to safety. If a job seems too risky, don't do it. Find another way. If the othe way don't work....... well......... erm....... maybe do it the dangerous way

 

[Green]

Cissies?

You ever been around a when a bad accident occurs?

I was only a week into my apprenticeship when an older guy had a bollock knocked off in a kick back incident and had to retire due to his injuries. I dont htink I will ever forget that.

It is none of my business what people get up to in their own shops but please dont make light of shop safety, some of these machines can f**k the rest of your life up.

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

I'm failing to see any benefit of using that method over using a jig on the table saw and then a quick pass over the over hand planer and away you go.
There seems to be alot of avenues to go down there that will end up in injury

 

[hpl]

Apart from the fact that if you were doing 400 of these it would be quicker with a jig on a saw, I can't see what is so scary about this process, as long as the guard is in place it is the same as any pass on the planer, just a deeper cut. I was taught to use that process at college to produce shallow tapers, OK that was 20 years ago, but it works, especially as a one off. If it was a 10mm taper you are only taking off 5mm at a time, not so bad. And as he says, it is right ready to sand.

 

[Steve Maskery]

This is an old technique. It can work well and yes there are risks attached.

I've never seen it described in two passes before, however. I've done this in the past but taken several passes. Instead of dividing the taper into two, you can do the same by dividing it into 5 or 6, depending on the taper and taking shallower cuts (total cut divided by 5 or 6)

I'd use some considerably more substantial push-sticks though, he looks as if he's struggling to hold the workpiece TBH. A tote-handled one with a heel on the back would be much better.

This is OK if the PT is the only machine in your shop, but I think I'd prefer a TS or BS jig, especially as he points out that it still needs a finishing cut with a plane or sandpaper.

One of the biggest problems with this technique is that if the tape is subtle, when you turn the leg round you can find yourself planing against the grain, even though it is tapered. This can result in a worse finish than that obtained on the tablesaw, for example.

If you want some really scary workshop practice, watch Mario Rodriquez use a tablesaw to make a wall-hanging cupboard on the same site. Very well explained, beautiful little cabinet and potentially maiming tablesaw practice.

On the plus side for PW, my mag turned up yesterday without me having to email and moan about non-delivery :shock: :shock: Whatever next?

Cheers
Steve