Vari Angle Cutter Head & Making Flush Casement Windows

[pollys13]

Just wondering, would a vari angle cutter head be of any use in making flush fitting casement windows. One side opener, one top opener and one static, dead sash. Making the cill springs to mind?
If yes, could a tilting spindle arbor forwards and back accomplish the same tasks?
Cheers.

 

[RobinBHM]

Vari angle block, 9 degree cill block, table saw with a jig.

A vari angle block eill only cut 50mm, but you could start with a 13mm flat and put the tenon in the rebate.

Jamb and mullion scribes can be cut on a saw with a jig.

 

[ColeyS1]

I took loads of photos on the last window I made-Thought you might be interested in the process. I'll start doing a write up [WINKING FACE]

Coley

 

[Beau]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

 

[pollys13]

I took loads of photos on the last window I made-Thought you might be interested in the process. I'll start doing a write up [WINKING FACE]

Coley

OK cheers Coley :ho2

 

[pollys13]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

Um, out of interest, could you explain that jig and process a bit?

 

[pollys13]

Vari angle block, 9 degree cill block, table saw with a jig.

A vari angle block eill only cut 50mm, but you could start with a 13mm flat and put the tenon in the rebate.

Jamb and mullion scribes can be cut on a saw with a jig.

OK cheers, these jigs have you any photos, or links, other posts?

 

[Beau]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

Um, out of interest, could you explain that jig and process a bit?

Will take a picture. This is for a sill that is planted on under the frame not like Coley posted in the casement thread where a vari angle block or tilting arbour is very useful.

 

[pollys13]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

Um, out of interest, could you explain that jig and process a bit?

Will take a picture. This is for a sill that is planted on under the frame not like Coley posted in the casement thread where a vari angle block or tilting arbour is very useful.

OK cheers, I saw Coleys thread.

 

[RobinBHM]

It is easier to make a plant on separate cill, which can then be made under the thicknesser as per Beau's suggestion.

However you still need to create a water shed angle on the bottom rebate of the frame, usually this is 9 degrees.

Unfortunately I havent got any drawings to show the details however if you go to the whitehill site and download the traditional flush window, the cill section is shown. As I mentioned it shows a flat in the rebate before the chamfer.

http://www.whitehill-tools.com/tooling.php

Alternatively, you can do a cill check rebate with only a small section chamfered and then replicate this on the sash.

It is best to machine a drip on both frame and sash to prevent water driving deep into the rebate.

 

[Beau]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

Um, out of interest, could you explain that jig and process a bit?

This is an easy way to plane up angles on the thicknesser
One I use for sills and the other for making up glazing beads.

 

[pollys13]

It is easier to make a plant on separate cill, which can then be made under the thicknesser as per Beau's suggestion.

I'm with you, cheers.

 

[pollys13]

Easy way to do the angle for sills is a jig to tilt the wood through the thicknesser. Got a tilting arbour but I don't use it for making windows.

Um, out of interest, could you explain that jig and process a bit?

This is an easy way to plane up angles on the thicknesser
One I use for sills and the other for making up glazing beads.

Clever, easy jig OK cheers.

 

[custard]

Despite having a tilting spindle on my spindle moulder I still regularly use a vari-angle block. They give you a wider range of angles (at least if you choose the right model), allow both top and bottom cuts, and tend to work better with ring fences.

The problem though with vari-angle blocks is accurately setting the knives. Using the scale on the block you'd normally struggle to get within a couple of degrees, which means resetting the block for the same cut in the future is difficult, and the two knives will probably be at slightly different angles so the cut surface is like a flat pyramid with a bump in the middle instead of being completely flat.

But here's a tip I was given that delivers repeatable accuracy to a tenth of a degree.

Set up the block with a digital angle finder on top and then zero it,

As long as you don't move the position of the block you can then use the angle finder to set each knife in turn, quickly, accurately, and repeatably.

Works a treat!

 

[pollys13]

OK thats brill custurd I've got a Chiwanise version of the Wixey magnetic cube angle finder.

 

[pollys13]

I'm amazed by this forum so many knowledgeable people who are happy to share, how to and offer sensible advice.

 

[pollys13]

I saw a vari angle cutter early this morning on Ebay.
Was an Axcaliber Adjustable Chamfering Cutter Head
described by seller as being in very good condition and judging by pics it is.

He had it buy now £130 + £3.20 postage. He accepted £110 by bank transfer for it including post.
Axminster sell it for £231 could have perhaps done with 50mm rather than 40mm also a steel head rather than alloy.
I can resharpen the knives using my 2nd hand Tormek Spindle profile knife sharpening jig, again from Ebay, sharpen them on the wetstone grinder. The knives are £15 a pair from Axminster.
Only hope when I'm ready to use the spindle properly I can put it to good use.

If nothing else..... it does look quite pretty

 

[tomatwark]

These are disposable knives nd £15 per pair is a rip off.

They are £ 21.60 for 5 pairs from Whitehill.

And remember that you are getting 10 changes as they are reversible, you will not sharpen them on a Tromek.

 

[pollys13]

These are disposable knives nd £15 per pair is a rip off.

They are £ 21.60 for 5 pairs from Whitehill.

And remember that you are getting 10 changes as they are reversible, you will not sharpen them on a Tromek.

Ah, OK and thanks for the heads up on the better price

 

[RobinBHM]

Or these:
If yours are standard 40 x 12 x 1.5 £20 / 10

Its best to have a few, being solid tct jt is very hard so lasts a long time but will also be prone to chipping. They cant be resharpened as they really are very very hard!


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40-x-12-x-1-5 ... 2149577815