Using/storing green timber!

[gasmansteve]

Thanks for that Chas, I wasn`t aware that green end grain cut timber had to be cut thin?. I read one article in Woodturning were the guy partially turned a `green` bowl and left it with the wall of the bowl an inch thick stating that would prevent it from splitting before he could finish it a few months later. Would this still be the case regardless of how the blank is cut ie end grain or not?.
Steve

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

Steve, we seem to be having a terminology problem here.

You will have endgrain in any piece, that is the way it goes, the problem of splitting usually comes from the pith, with is at the VERY center of the log, this is usually cut out of the blanks, like I showed. That being said, there are some who will turn hollow forms (HFs) and do so in such a way that leaves the pith in place, but, as Chas has stated, these HFs are turned thin, and as they dry the usually move or warp, which can be quite attractive, or if the piece splits, a real drag.

It also depends on the wood, some woods, most notably fruit woods, Apple, Cherry, Pear etc seem to split no matter what you do, heck, when I get some pieces of it, I do my usual thing, then I toss salt over each shoulder three times, rub the ash of a good Cuban cigar around the piece and stomp on some dried chicken bones a few times, then I put the pieces on the shelf and wait......... sometimes I get lucky, other times I get very interesting firewood :lol:

I'd suggest that you start with bowls, and that you cut the pith out, this will make your life a lot easier, learn to crawl, then walk, then walk fast, then, maybe, run :wink: :lol:

I'm still crawling, but it's a fast crawl

Cheers!

 

[CHJ]

Steve, these are the basic steps I take to deal with green wood, it is not the only way but it works for me.

Split the logs to reduce risk of splitting whilst drying (remove pith/core) and seal ends to slow down moisture lost from end grain.

Rough turn green blanks asap to a thickness that will allow for cross grain shrinkage, this depends on wood species but allow something like 1cm in 10cm to start with as minimum.

Wrap outer surface in several layers of paper and put on one side with air circulation to dry out, in my north facing conservatory this takes about 18 days but slower is better if you want to avoid splitting so don't push for rapid drying until you no your location.

Once dry you can store them until such time as you can get round to completing them.

 

[gasmansteve]

Sorry for the delay in replying.
Interesting what you say about cutting out the pith when using green wood. Does this also apply if using green wood for say a vase?. A bit awkward if using a small branch and not a part of the trunk. Sorry if all this is a bit basic but I`ve quite got the turning `bug` and would like to try and do the best I can at it.
Cheers
Steve

 

[CHJ]

....Does this also apply if using green wood for say a vase?. A bit awkward if using a small branch and not a part of the trunk. ....

Obviously if you are using the whole trunk diameter and boring into the end grain it is impossible not to use the pith/core portion, it is this central area left in the base where splits are likely to occur most.

Some people overcome this by removing the central core of the base, say 20-30mm diameter and fitting a false plug of sound wood. It is not visible in use and considerably reduces the risk of the piece splitting.

 

[gasmansteve]

Cheers for that Chas. I used to have this romantic notion of wandering through woods,finding logs taking them home and turning them into vases,bowls etc. A wee bit more to it I gather now :wink: .
Nice collection of blanks BTW.
Thanks again
Steve

 

[Bodrighy]

Cheers for that Chas. I used to have this romantic notion of wandering through woods,finding logs taking them home and turning them into vases,bowls etc. A wee bit more to it I gather now :wink: .
Nice collection of blanks BTW.
Thanks again
Steve

A large percentage of the wood that I use is found. I have only bought a few pieces and they were offcuts at wood fests etc. You can 'wander through the woods finding logs.' If they have been lying around for a good while the sap is all gone and they tend to dry evenly and quickly in my experience. You also have the fun of never knowing what you will find inside as you turn (including little scuttling things :lol It's a very good source of wood for small turnings as well. The tips given by Chas and the others are important for freshly felled wood but don't always need to be applied for the found wood in my experience.

Pete

 

[Losos]

I just hope that this can give people an idea of ways to process your blanks so you have lots of free wood to turn. I guess if you want to be really really safe, you could buy all of your blanks preprocessed, heck, don't even drive to the shop to buy them, have them delivered by DHL or which ever courier you prefer, and pay by credit card, much safer than handling cash, you know how many germs are on cash :shock:

Cheers! :lol:

Great pictorial, too much for me to take in one go, (being a newby in the turning game) so I'll have to come back and read it all again.

Welcome to the forum, I think we need people like you on here

I've been struggling with some green wood from a walnut tree that blew down on our property recently

 

[Bodrighy]

I've been struggling with some green wood from a walnut tree that blew down on our property recently

Lucky *** I wish it had blown down onto mine :mrgreen: I love walnut.

Pete

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

Thanks Losos!

Lucky for sure to get some walnut, but be real careful, lots of guys develop allergies to the dust from walnut, I've not, but I wear my powered respirator and run my cyclone when I work walnut, no way I want to have an allergy to it, as it is such nice stuff to turn!

Cheers!