Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
galleywood":6z1vffyd said:Myfordman":6z1vffyd said:I'd suggest buying the Axminster ER20 collet model. Should offer superior grip and concentricity as well as being cheaper than the xtreme.
Collets are available from a wide range of suppliers in 1mm steps and have a range of 1mm. so one collet will take both 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm) another will take 12mm and 1/2" (12.7mm).
These collets are the only router type that have the combination of accuracy and designed 1mm operating range.
ER collets originate from the engineering industry where they are regularly used for lathes and mills.
Myfordman - Have you used one of these, or are you just speaking from an engineering point of view - I would agree with you regarding grip, concentricity and cost.
However you would need two spanners to change tools - one on the flats (so as not to put load on the router's own collet) and the other on the nut.
This all makes tool changing a bit of a faff, probably more so if the router is not table mounted.
Using an Allen key to tighten/release the collet is so much easier.
Galleywood - this is a very fair point and about 10 years ago I bought and still use the Xtreme extender. As far as I know, the ER based extenders were not around then. I imported from the US when a pound bought over 2USD so much less painful on the wallet than these days
Single tool operation is convenient but I'm not totally happy with the conversion sleeve system for 6mm, 1/4" and 8mm needed for the Xtreme. I've made my own sleeves for the metric sizes with extra slits for more complete compression Of course, 12mm use is not possible with such small difference compared to the 1/2" bore.
If I had my time again, I'd buy the ER20 unit and make a cranked spanner to hold the body still whilst using a standard ring spanner on the collet nut. This combination should allow cutter changes without raising the router as much as the Xtreme scheme needs.
I have an ER32 system on my engineering lathe and ability to grip any size round bar is very useful and so far has proved accurate and far quicker than clocking in on a 4 jaw chuck. I've never been aware of anything slipping. Access for spanners is straightforward on the lathe. I use the Clarkson chuck system on the mill but that requires threaded shank cutters and a back centre on the shank as well. That works faultlessly too.
Mainly due to my engineering background, I approach my woodwork as simply engineering with a different type of material and endeavour to bring as many engineering process into the woodwork shop as I can.
This does not always find favour with other woodworkers but it suits me!