Using a planer/thicknesser blade height jig

[RichD1]

I'm thinking on buying a set of these magnetic height adjuster. I've watched several YouTube vids but am confused.

They only show the setting of the height in the cutter block but not in relation to the outfeed table which surely is the key height.

Am I missing something?

 

[Fitzroy]

Nope, that’s what they do. Many machines do have an adjustable out feed, so you can then raise/lower as required once the blades are set. It also requires beds and cutterblock to be aligned.

 

[niall Y]

If the blades are not at the correct height in relation to the cutter block, then any timber passed through the thicknesser won't have a top parallel to the bottom. despite the blades having been adjusted, to cut perfectly in relation to the top outfeed table.

 

[Mikebart]

I'm thinking on buying a set of these magnetic height adjuster. I've watched several YouTube vids but am confused.

They only show the setting of the height in the cutter block but not in relation to the outfeed table which surely is the key height.

Am I missing something?

I have a set and they only set up the blade height in relation to the cutterblock and in my opinion are absolute rubbish in theory you set them up before you remove the existing blades (assuming the blades are correct before changing) but because most are universal to suit different sizes of cutterblock the magnetic blocks are movable so to get both consistent is a pain plus the screw adjustment on the top is not like a micrometer gauge the allows you tighten to the same each time so if you are trying to tighten then down and compress the spring under the blade they pull away from the magnets and fall off.
Good idea in practice but would need a very much more expensive tool to achieve the desired result.
The above is only my opinion maybe they work for others but I went back to the original supplied jig.

 

[worn thumbs]

I've used the setting jigs that Wadkin supplied with a couple of machines and they made the job very simple.Buying a jig and hoping the geometry is right for your own unspecified machine is quite optimistic.I don't see that using a set of worn knives to establish the correct location will have much chance of a good outcome.It would probably be better to do an installation the old fashioned way and then use that as a datum to work from.

 

[RichD1]

So you're saying go back to the old straight edge across the blade and onto the outfeed table and measure the movement.

My planer/trhicknesser is a Scheppach 260.

 

[Mikebart]

So you're saying go back to the old straight edge across the blade and onto the outfeed table and measure the movement.

My planer/trhicknesser is a Scheppach 260.

Set the outfeed table using the wood drag method infeed table is not relevant as it’s adjustable to suit thickness of cut.

 

[undergroundhunter]

I had a set for my old machine, they were virtually impossible to use. I tried the block of wood method, and found that quite frustrating. In the end I used a piece of glass sat on the out feed table with a piece of copy paper between the glass and the table, rotate the cutter block so the knife is at its highest point, slacken the securing bolts and let the knife touch the glass then re-secure the locking screws. Perfect every time.

Matt

 

[whitty]

I have a stand alone thicknesser, and they are perfect for this machine. However i still use the wood straight edge drag method for the surface planer.

 

[worn thumbs]

So you're saying go back to the old straight edge across the blade and onto the outfeed table and measure the movement.

My planer/trhicknesser is a Scheppach 260.

Not exactly,what I'm saying is that if you buy a generic setting jig it will be necessary to verify it's parameters with the machine set up correctly.Once it has been compensated to your specific machine it should be fine and for the avoidance of doubt the outfeed table should be set to zero cutting depth or the calibration of the machine will be incorrect.

 

[MikeJhn]

I had a set for my old machine, they were virtually impossible to use. I tried the block of wood method, and found that quite frustrating. In the end I used a piece of glass sat on the out feed table with a piece of copy paper between the glass and the table, rotate the cutter block so the knife is at its highest point, slacken the securing bolts and let the knife touch the glass then re-secure the locking screws. Perfect every time.

Matt

I also use a piece of plate glass without the piece of copy paper, set up perfectly every time and never had any snipe, IMO if you set the blade higher than the outfeed table you can't avoid snipe.

 

[hlvd]

I'm thinking on buying a set of these magnetic height adjuster. I've watched several YouTube vids but am confused.

They only show the setting of the height in the cutter block but not in relation to the outfeed table which surely is the key height.

Am I missing something?

I purchased some once but sent them back as I could set the blades more accurately with the traditional two line method.

 

[RichD1]

Thanks everyone for your input. I think I will get a piece of plate glass and try that method. It does sound quite easy to achieve. Using the drag method I always found that you could set one side and when you set the other side the other side moved.