Using a No80 scraper

[dedee]

I've been using this scraper for the first time on a piece of oak this morning. I am generally getting some nice curly shavings about 1/2" wide. Every now and then the scraper seems to catch and judder leaving a ripple effect on the surface of the wood. Is this likely to be a user technique problem? Or a symptom of an incorrectly sharpened/adjusted tool?
I have honed to 45 degrees and added a burr.

Andy

 

[bugbear]

you've got it set too deep. Classic symptoms.

BugBear

 

[Scott]

Andy

Are you setting the depth with a piece of paper under the toe as many people recommend? I find I never need to do this. I just set it on a flat surface

Cheers

 

[Rob Lee]

I've been using this scraper for the first time on a piece of oak this morning. I am generally getting some nice curly shavings about 1/2" wide. Every now and then the scraper seems to catch and judder leaving a ripple effect on the surface of the wood. Is this likely to be a user technique problem? Or a symptom of an incorrectly sharpened/adjusted tool?
I have honed to 45 degrees and added a burr.

Andy

Hi Andy -

A couple of things to check....

First - don't over burnish... if you've sharpened to 45 degrees, it doesn't take much pressure....use several light strokes at about 5-8 degrees.... test using the blade held in your hand before putting it into the scraper... that way, you can feel if you've got the geometry right...I've always found that more burnishing passes at lighter pressure will give a better edge...

Second - don't over project the blade... sit a thin shaving under the front to set the blade depth.... or, fix the blade with the plane sitting flat, and bow the blade to make it proud of the sole...It doesn't take much either way...

Once you "get it" .... it's easy to repeat.... but be patient!

Cheers -

Rob

 

[dedee]

I set the depth by placing the scraper on a lfat surface with the blade loose then tightening the two screws at the front then tightening the rear screw. I guess I need to back this (rear screw) off a bit.

I am sure I have read about using paper/shaving under the front of the plane. In my eagerness I had forgotten about that.

Just how wide a shaving can be achieved, or is optimal with this tool?

I'll give it another go later.

Andy

 

[Aled Dafis]

I find that setting it on a flat piece of softwood, and applying a little vertical pressure to the blade as you secure it (centre knob fully retracted) works well . The depth of cut can then be adjusted by turning the centre knob.

I usually get shavings that are nearly the width of the blade.

As Rob mentioned, a light burnishing works best after honing on the 6000/8000 grit waterstone.

 

[Chris Knight]

If you have accidentally carved ridges into your work, skew the scraper (wrt the direction of travel) in the next pass.

 

[dedee]

I had another play this morning and by adjusting the depth I have eliminated the chatter. I need to work more on making the hook as it seemed to work better before I tried to turn the hook than after.

Andy

 

[Frank D.]

Andy,
The hook is optional. Some may disagree, but I get excellent results on my 80 as well as with my scraper plane just by sharpening a 45° bevel, that's it. It gives me very nice shavings, I don't see why I'd start fiddling with a burnisher.

 

[Keystone]

I'm with Frank on this one. I get wonderful shavings with just a 45* honing. I have the Veritas Cabinet Scraper, but it's almost the same as the #80.

 

[dedee]

Frank/Ken,
that's a relief to hear you say that. On all the online resources I found the recommended way was to turn a hook.

I am honing at 45 degrees with the aid of an Eclipse guide and diamond whetstone. The edge is very sharp and although I am not getting shavings wider than about 1" the finish (on oak) looks very smooth with a distinct shine.


Andy

[/list]

 

[Keystone]

I sharpen mine on wet stones going up to 8000 grit. Have to be real careful when putting the blade in as the Veritas has an edge on both ends! I figure I get one to one and one half inch wide shavings depending on how much curve i put in the blade. I use tissue paper to set the depth and end up getting between .009 to as low as .002 thick (or would that be thin?) shavings. I did try the burr in the past and did not find any better performance.

 

[Jarviser]

I keep a length of saw protector on the top edge of mine. I always take pieces out of my hands with it otherwise. The no 80 blade just fits my Tormek so I sharpen at 45 deg like a plane blade. The hollow ground bevel takes even less to put a hook on it. Couple of strokes only.

 

[Chris Knight]

meep, meep!

 

[Alf]

meep, meep!

Come off it, Chris. It's only a Stanley. :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Chris Knight]

None of my Stanley saws look like that!

 

[Jarviser]

Oh those old things. Sorry I meant to crop them out. Can't get the hang of Photoshop yet. :wink:

 

[bugbear]

I was reminded of theis recently:

http://home.mindspring.com/~cdinde/modifyano80scraper2/

BugBear