Use of Bees wax.

[Democritus]

Hi Guys,
I recently watched a Richard Raffan video demonstrating turning a small cherry bowl. When he came to finish the bowl, he merely sanded, didn’t use a sanding sealer, then applied raw bees wax from a large block, before polishing. Anybody else used such a finish? Are there any drawbacks?
D.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It's not a good finish for anything that's handled or even touched, it's too soft. It looks lovely especially on oak but it's better mixed with another wax - microcrystalline or carnauba. I tend now to use mc/carnauba and leave the beeswax out.

 

[Stigmorgan]

Beeswax alone isn't very hard so will wear off quickly and scratch easily compared to something like a carnauba wax.

 

[Richard_C]

As above, OK for display but not for handling. But a small block is brilliant for rubbing along the lathe bed, underneath where the banjo clamp runs, toolrest edge and suchlike so things move nicely.

Also good to silence squeaky bees.

 

[scooby]

I’ve only used it once and, as mentioned, it looks good but is not durable at all.
I actually bought the wax to use for leather working (on the thread, makes needle threading easier).

 

[Andy's Shed]

In the videos that I've seen, Richard often uses an oil soaked sock and then a beeswax block on his turnings?

I've used Beeswax in abrasive paste and chopping board finish recipes.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Beeswax is cheap-ish, easily available, ticks all the eco friendly boxes and easy to apply and to re-apply but it dulls quickly if handled so I avoid it for that reason. I use oil finishes on food bowls and microcrystalline wax on some decorative things I'm going to apply a wax finish to.

 

[Democritus]

Thanks, guys. I wondered about its durability, and you’ve all confirmed my suspicions. Richard C’s suggestion for its use is interesting.
For all that, Richard Raffan remains one of my heroes.
D.

 

[MF1000]

I use a mix of beeswax/carnuba/micro crystalline wax dissolved in pure turps/linseed oil on my tables ….and Stig has tried it with good effect on some of his turned pieces

 

[RonnieI]

I use a 70/20/10 mix of baby oil/beeswax/turpentine to rub on a piece before sanding. Rub on, rub off excess then sand, practically eliminates sanding dust. Sandpaper clogs but I just clean it with a brass wire brush straight into the bin. Works really well and doesn't affect any finishes once dry after sanding.

 

[isaac3d2]

I make a bees wax paste from 50% mineral oil (the stuff they use in baby oil) and 50% wax. The exact proportion affects how hard the paste is. For the wax, I use a 3:1 ratio of bees wax and carnauba wax. The carnauba wax definitely makes the finish more durable and not so sticky for dust/dirt. Again, you can play with the exact proportions; the more carnauba wax the more durable but the stiffer the paste will be. You can play with the recipe; eg adding higher a proportion of carnauba but reducing the overall proportion of wax might give a paste that's easier to apply but ends up with a more durable finish once the mineral oil has soaked in to the wood. Play, have fun!

PS just extracted a kilo or so of wax from my bee hive, so I might use that in the next batch I make. NOTE: for safety, use a double pan to heat the oil before melting/dissolving the wax in it. It needs to be about 60-70 oC, I reckon.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jacquard-J...035816&sprefix=microctystallin,aps,116&sr=8-5
will make more m/c was polish than you'll use in a lifetime. As with beeswax and carnauba and any perm from the three I use pure turps because I like the smell. I have some diatomaceous earth to make "Yorkshire grit" but haven't got around to it yet.

 

[isaac3d2]

... As with beeswax and carnauba and any perm from the three I use pure turps because I like the smell. ....

ha ha, me too, but mineral oil is easier on the lungs and other internals.

 

[Democritus]

Cheers, guys.

 

[peter-harrison]

I have a Richard Raffan bowl. I don't know what it's finished with but whatever it is is quite durable.
I was taught to polish turnings with beeswax and friction at school, 50 odd years ago.
If you don't have a live centre, beeswax is the best thing to lubricate a fixed one.

 

[johnnyb]

Bear grease always recommended on dead centres when I was an apprentice! Could of been Codding me over.