Unilift

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Interesting...you lose 9/16ths of plunge depth. THAT was never picked up in the American Woodworker review.

Does anyone know of any router lifts that allow bit changing to be done from above the table? In other words, hands never go underneath unless you want to remove the router.

Roger
 
I think I am correct that you will loose some plunge depth with all router lifts, I just believe in telling it how it is.

As to the Triton well I would not go that route and I sell them when people want them. I had a Triton router but got rid of it, the plunge is ok, the rack and pinion is OK, the part I was not happy with was the mechanical switch to transition between rack & plunge. As to it coming out through the table top and changing, sorry folks but give me a Freud FT2000 with an Xtreme Xtension any day (same kind of money)or a DeWalt or Festool 2000.
 
ChippyChap":3viwvyba said:
. I had a Triton router but got rid of it, the plunge is ok, the rack and pinion is OK, the part I was not happy with was the mechanical switch to transition between rack & plunge.

I don't quite understand how and when that is a problem, not one I've experienced.


As to it coming out through the table top and changing, sorry folks but give me a Freud FT2000 with an Xtreme Xtension any day (same kind of money)or a DeWalt or Festool 2000.

Funny, the only other router table I've used hands-on (my father's) has a router-raiser and an extension (not the unilift or xtreme xtension though) and and a MOF177. I'm much happier with the Triton, it is simpler, less fussy, easier to make large adjustments quickly, as well as small increments (which the lifts are good at) and much much the simplest system for changing a router bit in a table I've ever used.

What margin do you make on a Triton when you sell one, versus a unilift/xtreme xtension set-up?
 
Well I guess Jake you need to try an Xtreme Xtension, time to buy one as a belated father's day present and have a play.

Talk about margin, I have no problem with that.

I would make less on a Triton in straight margin terms but you need to look at the bottom line margin to get the real financial picture. It is slightly different because when you act as importer you pay shipping, import duty & VAT up front or some time only part of it plus you may have to pay for the goods before they leave the USA. So that effects your real margin.

But just like when you buy a product you may consider the question of pre & post support. That is just as important to me when I deal with my suppliers the bulk of them being in the USA. In my opinion Accurate Tools, Incra, Legacy, Wood Artistry, MicroFence, Router Technologies & Woodpecker provide it as do Festool who are on hand here in UK. I do not know all the answers BUT I usually know the man who does and that is important so that I can answer customer questions.

By the way my router armoury is 2 DeWalts, 2 Trends a T3 & T9, Makita 3612C, 2 Festool, 2 Freuds and an Axminster. So given I was not happy with the Triton I did the honorable thing and sold it. If some one wants to buy one I will supply but I am prepared to discuss the pros & cons of the different models and makes.

Remember we cannot all like the same things, if we did it might be a miserable place.
 
Seems to me that the overriding qualification is whether you want to put your hands above or below the table when it comes to changing bits. The Triton...true..great for changing bits easily BUT you can't access it from above the table.

Unilift, Rout R Lift et al...you lift the router up by accessing from the top (OK ..may take longer since you have to wind away). But even then, you can't necessarily change bits above the table.

I say et al...but how about the Bench Dog ProLift...access from above the table AND bit change above the table...BUT.....there is always a but...looks like it only works with the Porter Cable 7518!
 
As you generally have to get your eye level with the bit to get the height right, I find under the table is actually more convenient, as you have to semi-kneel down to do so, and then reaching up to something on the top of the table is difficult. I find myself going up and down like a yo-yo on my dad's table.
 
Couple of points, Jake is obviously a fit young man but he will find, over time, that getting down on your hands knees to change bits and adjust things gets harder as you get older.

To Roger I can but recommend the XX, yes I know I sell them but it is a great product for a quick change. If he has a Porter Cable then he has the option of using an Eliminator Chuck which works on similar principals to the XX but does not extend the bit.

Benchdog makes nice products and when I was looking for a line of router accessory products to sell they were my second choice, my final choice being Woodpecker.

Well as for the WoodRat, great product but I sold mine as I prefer the Incra for dovetailing and the Legacy for milling etc, one of the benefits of selling wood working tools, another benefit is the customers and the way woodworkers help each other even those who are in it commercially.
 
ChippyChap":2k5n1op5 said:
Couple of points, Jake is obviously a fit young man but he will find, over time, that getting down on your hands knees to change bits and adjust things gets harder as you get older.
To Roger I can but recommend the XX, yes I know I sell them but it is a great product for a quick change. .
I agree that the XX does give a quick change but, if I can, I'd rather avoid having yet another lump of metal spinning around. Particularly if you're going to add large panel cutters which will exacerbate any minor out of balance thus more vibration. I read the XX instructions v carefully..and they do go on a bit about possible causes of vibration etc. To my mind, the simpler route is to avoid it if at all possible.
If he has a Porter Cable then he has the option of using an Eliminator Chuck which works on similar principals to the XX but does not extend the bit.
Eliminator Chuck now available for other routers such as the DW625. I have one and very good they are too..which maybe is the way out of my 'above-the-table' cutter changing.
Benchdog makes nice products and when I was looking for a line of router accessory products to sell they were my second choice, my final choice being Woodpecker.
Quite so and as far as I can see the only lift that allows 'above-the-table' cutter changing and without loss of cutter depth. OK - that's because it is designed for the Porter Cable 7518 router (which you can't get in this country :cry: )
Well as for the WoodRat, great product but I sold mine as I prefer the Incra for dovetailing and the Legacy for milling etc, one of the benefits of selling wood working tools, another benefit is the customers and the way woodworkers help each other even those who are in it commercially.
I agree. I have one and it works well for me...just that for some jobs a router table is better. The rat is better at other things. All a matter of personal preference and horses for courses.
 
ChippyChap":6oid5pwy said:
Couple of points, Jake is obviously a fit young man but he will find, over time, that getting down on your hands knees to change bits and adjust things gets harder as you get older.

More of a crouch, actually. But how do you judge the true height of a bit relative to the timber if you don't have your eyes down at a level with the bit?
 
Waka said:
There are two positions on the top for raising the router and a locking device so that no movement of the hieght when in operation.

Please could either Waka or another user of the Unilift tell me how the locking device works. Despite the wonderfully clear photos, I've not spotted yet. Does it actually lock the slide bars or merely trap the chain/sprockets?
Whatever the method, is it effective.

How rigid is the Unilift when taking a heavy cut and not using a bearing guided cutter?

Thanks in advance

9fingers
 
9fingers

The locking device is hard to see on the top of the unilift, you use a device that goes into it, a bit like a allen key. I'm not sure how this locks it under the table, can't check it for you because I'm out of country.

Whatever the method, is it effective.
yes it is very effective.

How rigid is the Unilift when taking a heavy cut and not using a bearing guided cutter?
The whole thing is very rigid, although I'm not sure what you mean by heavy cut, I tend to take small cuts irrespective of the bit used.

I have experienced no problem with movement/vibration at all.

IMHO its the best lift on the market, the workmanship is excellent.

Hope this helps, if your in my neck of the woods your welcome to come test for yourself.
 
9fingers,
If you want an explanation of the locking mechanism it is very simple. An Allen wrench is supplied that locks a sprocket on the chain that runs around underneath the router plate. When you turn the handle this chain drives both of the lift screws plus an idler cog and the lock cog. Lock it and all four items do not move.

If a more detailed explanation is required then call me on Local Call number 0845 1659 244, if I am out leave a number and I will call you back.

I concur about heavy cuts, slowly slowly catchee monkey!
 
Thanks to Waka & ChippieChap.

I think I've spotted the locking screw in one of the photos. My possible concern over rigidity comes from the distribution of the guide posts around the router. If you draw an imaginary line betwenn the two adjusting screws, there is a potential lack of rigidity about that axis compared to an axis nominally at right angles to the former which will be more rigid. Ideally, 4 support posts would be equally distributed around the router but this could conflict with the need for the unilift to fit as many routers as possible.
I'm currently thinking of making my own lifter and see the Unilift as avery good starting point.
This is closer to home for me as in addition to a hobby woodworker, Im also a metal worker with an engineering workshop too. The day job is in electronics so 'doing stuff' is right up my street.

I hope this confession wont disqualify me from UKworkshop forum participation javascript:emoticon(':lol:')
Laughing

regards

9fingers
 

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