Types of MDF for bookcases and kitchen cabinets

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi jon

I’m in the Newcastle area too. You could try Ashley timber in South Shields, they are very reasonable. Arbor timber in meadow field/Durham is also great, with an old fashioned machine shop but they are a bit more expensive. Another alternative is nordstroms in Sunderland (they’ve recently been taken over by JT Doves). Hope that helps a little.

Cheers
Pete
 
Ashley Timber have always provided a good service and delivery, I've used a lot of their mdf for built in wardrobes and cabinets lately.
 
Hydrofugo, like ply, can vary enormously in price. For example 18mm can be £80 right up to £135! Shop around, it's even more important nowadays. HTH.
I'd never heard of it, first result £115 for 18mm, nearly fell off my seat, a sellers later £58! Shop around indeed!
 
i recently watched a video on 3 different MDF's , I found found it very interesting, I have always used MRMDF - except for once on a window seat
Not a full scientific test , but i have watched this guy for a while and he makes a lot of great fitted furniture


 
I have made my bookcases, kitchen and open display cupboards out of any MR mdf I can get at a sensible price. The kitchen units are obviously melamine faced, the others finished in acrylic eggshell paint.
I always plant a M&T frame on the front of Poplar/Tulip wood as otherwise I think the cabinets look skinny.
Shelves are of any hardwood machined to about 22mm thick and given an oil finish. This gives a nice contrast. I generally span up to about 750mm on width and have experienced no sagging. If using an 18mm varnished birch plywood shelf I reduce this to about 500mm. Shelves sit on "banjo" supports, but I've found with the MR grade of mdf I have never needed to use the sockets that are often fitted into the run of holes for adjustable height.
I usually omit backs where the walls are true and good and liquid nails the verticals to the room walls. As such I have not generally found a need to have fixed cross pieces in taller units to resist any splay, unless they do not have an adjacent unit.

Colin
 
Surprised noone has mentioned CaberMDF Pro MR, I have used it for a small project (router table) but machines well and easily worked with hand tools too. Bit pricey but I've found most sheet materials are these days. Best source seems to be Selco if you have an account (I don't but wish I did seeing how much cheaper it is than Jewsons!)
 
Surprised noone has mentioned CaberMDF Pro MR, I have used it for a small project (router table) but machines well and easily worked with hand tools too. Bit pricey but I've found most sheet materials are these days. Best source seems to be Selco if you have an account (I don't but wish I did seeing how much cheaper it is than Jewsons!)
Hi if I dowel the main frame together would you sash clamp it together as I don’t have enough sash cramps! Is there something else available or recommended please?
 
Hi if I dowel the main frame together would you sash clamp it together as I don’t have enough sash cramps! Is there something else available or recommended please?
You can screw if the screws are hidden between cabinets or you could use ratchet straps as the dowels will hold the panels in position, just be careful of twisting.
 
Back
Top