hello Dave,
Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the twist on the door.
The posts already up have some good ideas, but
there may be another option for removing the twist, but whether its an option here depends on the design (construction) of the door. Restorers sometimes solve the twist problem by cutting one or more grooves across the inside surface of the door, at 90 degrees to the plane of twist. Usually the grooving is done on the table saw. The idea is to allow you to bend the grooved piece back to flat afterwhich the piece is clamped flat, and a stringer of wood hand fitted to each groove. Best practice to fit the stringers using a glue which does not rely on moisture of the wood for its action, so as not to alter the MC of the door while the glue dries. Once the glue's gone off you can plane the shims down to the surface level of the door.
Its a lot of work & only worth it if easier than making another door (or where replacement is not desired as in restoration work). AS said , this method is only available for some constructions of door, perhaps if you can post a picture or give some more details, someone else can help.
ps. you can get true warp (ie movement of wood due to moisture changes as opposed to release of stresses post machining) if a cabinet has poor internal ventilation together with very close fitting doors, due to the inside and outside of the piece being (In effect ) exposed to different humidity environments. I've noticed this on my own cupboards, although the total movement was small (1mm or less). Perhaps if you leave the doors open for a few days & see if the twist decreases ? It may be your piece needs better ventilation. Just something to think on.
Hope this helps, regards, Catface.
