TV unit model...

[woodbloke]

This is a quarter scale model of my current project, which is based on one of Alan Peters chunky tables...if you have the book you'll instantly recognise the form:

The proposed details are as follows:

top and ends veneered in English Oak, 40mm thick finished, ebony end cleats, scribed and mitred joints. Full size dms 1400x500(H)x440mm(W)
drawer unit veneered in oak, 20mm thick finished
drawers in oak, through dovetailed, handles in ebony (too small to show detail)
three removable shelves for equipment storage (cd player, amp, HDD box and SKY box)
adequate holes in the back for cable exits with room behind the unit to coil them.

The paint work has been applied to Rolls Royce standards :^o and is the closest I could get to the colour of oak.
I'm interested in your opinions on the design (proportions etc) as it's easy to make changes now rather than stuff the whole thing through the bandsaw in 6 months time :roll: :lol: - Rob

 

[Dibs-h]

Now you just need a 10" TV and sorted! :wink:

 

[Paul Chapman]

The only suggestion I would make is that if any of the equipment you will be putting on the lower shelves generates heat, ensure that there are some holes in the back (in addition to the ones for the cables) to allow that heat to dissipate.

Looking forward to seeing this one develop.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Harbo]

Rob - no babies then yet?

Our stuff is behind glass doors tied together with rope when our little visitors arrive!
Biscuits pushed into DVD drives do not work?

Rod

 

[wizer]

Rob - no babies then yet?

Our stuff is behind glass doors tied together with rope when our little visitors arrive!
Biscuits pushed into DVD drives do not work?

Rod

Being at that stage, I'd also recommend drawers if the pitter patter of tiny grand feet may be on the horizon (or you're feeling like having more yourself :shock: )

 

[Mattty]

Rob, i think that is a cracking design and it's certainly one i'd love to see built- well done.

If it were my design i think i would consider some detailing on the shelves, the square edges seem a little at odds with the round edges of the sides and top.

 

[OPJ]

I think the design and the proportions look good. Will the shelves be height-adjustable as well as removable?

What is your reason for using veneered-MDF over solid wood? (Perhaps the only un-Peters-like aspect of the design. :wink: ) You could use wedged through tenons, otherwise.

Look forward to seeing those through dovetails on the drawer fronts! :wink:

 

[xy mosian]

Rob - no babies then yet?

Our stuff is behind glass doors tied together with rope when our little visitors arrive!
Biscuits pushed into DVD drives do not work?

Rod

More crummy stuff on the telly then

xy

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks for the input thus far. I've got a quantity of decent English Oak, but not enough to make it in the solid, so it'll have to be bandsawn veneers.
Good point about 'round over' detailing on the shelves...something to consider, 'specially for the lower full length rail, slightly thinner at 30mm.
Any further suggestions welcomed, shelves adjustable btw - Rob

 

[OPJ]

Actually, using MDF makes a lot of sense for something of this size. It will be more stable and you won't have to worry about flattening such a large slab for the top. :wink: Then, you've also got those caps on the ends (?), which would only expand/contract in at right-angles to the movement of the top.

Personally, I'd leave the shelf edges square, as they are, and just knock the arrisses off, perhaps use a very small chamfer. You can have too much of a good thing, some times. And, if you don't like the square edges, you could always change it towards the end of the build.

Have you decided on a shape/design for the drawer pulls?

 

[woodbloke]

Actually, using MDF makes a lot of sense for something of this size. It will be more stable and you won't have to worry about flattening such a large slab for the top. :wink: Then, you've also got those caps on the ends (?), which would only expand/contract in at right-angles to the movement of the top.

Personally, I'd leave the shelf edges square, as they are, and just knock the arrisses off, perhaps use a very small chamfer. You can have too much of a good thing, some times. And, if you don't like the square edges, you could always change it towards the end of the build.

Have you decided on a shape/design for the drawer pulls?

Olly - the handle detail is something that I usually do later. It is important but I may well do a couple of full size mock ups to see what looks good...they will be long though rather than turned round knobs.
I had second thoughts about rounding the shelf edges over, I agree that it's very easy to go overboard on a particular feature...'less is more' in this case I fancy.
I'm not too worried about the movement of the end pieces against the main top 'cos as it will be an mdf core with oak lippings, there ought not to be too much movement - Rob

 

[newt]

Rob my only comment is will the weight of the TV cause any sagging of the MDF. It should not be a problem as flat screens are very much lighter than CRT. One thing that bugs me is folk that have shelves that are sagging, particularly book shelves :twisted:

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Very nice, I think rounding over all the edges will tie the whole thing together.


Pete

 

[woodbloke]

Rob my only comment is will the weight of the TV cause any sagging of the MDF. It should not be a problem as flat screens are very much lighter than CRT. One thing that bugs me is folk that have shelves that are sagging, particularly book shelves :twisted:

Pete - agree about saggy thingies :lol: but the weight of the TV will be directly over the drawer unit so there shouldn't be any sag - Rob

 

[Ironballs]

I thought you were going to use veneered ply for the top?

 

[woodbloke]

I thought you were going to use veneered ply for the top?

Damian - the whole thing is going to be ply/mdf core with bandsawn oak veneers over the top. Thinking about the sagging issue, I'll probably put a small rail ('twixt the drawer stiles) under the lower shelf about 2/3rds the way back to give some additional support in case the weight does become an issue - Rob

 

[Ironballs]

Just for info, my TV stand is still well, standing, with no sag so the sagulator was right. 23mm sycamore edge jointed with biscuits, with support at front and rear only