Turning Steel on Wood Lathe with Grinder

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Tetsuaiga

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I am interested in making a one off tapered reamer but don't have a metal lathe.

I believe the general reason why you shouldn't turn metal on a wood lathe is the speed is wrong and that the force would put an unhealthy amount of strain on the bearings.

I was thinking though, if you used a grinder, taking only light passes with some sort of carriage jig, would you overcome the given issues? I have a union graduate lathe so its more robust than say a mini benchtop lathe.

One concern id have is that the grinding disc would erode, making the final shape not match your jig setup. I'm sure that could be overcome though by making sure your final touch up passes are done with a well set up disc.


Does anyone have any thoughts?


Thanks
 
What is the tapered reamer for?

If it was for violin pegs, I'd just buy one.
 
Its for wood wind instruments, so funny sizes that wouldn't be easy to find.
 
I've never heard or read either of those reasons for not turning metal on a wood lathe. Wait for those with more experience, but some thoughts.

Wood lathes generally have the ability to set the speed either electronically or by moving a belt.

Even small lathes can turn 12" diameter over the bed. Without tailstock support there could be a lot of strain on the bearings especially if the wood is unbalanced.

Woodturners sometimes turn soft metals eg brass & copper with standard woodturning tools & with files. There is also metal spinning whereby sheet metal is pushed over a solid form - lots of friction & lots of pressure.

Presumably you will cut the taper the same way a wood turner does, ie, start by taking a small taper cut at the narrow end then work backwards, taking successively longer cuts until the largest diameter is reached.

If the metal is fairly small diameter then just go for it with a file.
 
Completely subjective but I'd find someone with metal working equipment. I just hate the idea of steel filings and other abrasive particles around a wood lathe.
 
Specify the dimensions and material here or in the metalwork section and someone is bound to offer to help.
Your more precise whereabouts may help too.

Bob
 
Why not turn the reamer from wood, make a small slit and insert a straight strip of metal into that slit?
 
"A homemade reamer for shaping the tapered bore. After turning a piece of hardwood to the correct dimensions and cutting it lengthwise, a saw blade is aligned along its length".

3reamer.jpg


http://www.cantoraccess.com/publication ... king.shtml
 
Robbo3":193rlfcx said:
I

. There is also metal spinning whereby sheet metal is pushed over a solid form - lots of friction & lots of pressure.

.
I have never tried spinning metal, would it be possible to spin 2mm thick stainless steel ? I could if necessary use a metal working lathe


regards
 
Depends on the size and contour. You may get away with shallow dishing. I've seen quite a bit of spinning but usually aluminium, mild steel or brass. I don't think any was over 1.2mm thick.
It can be very dangerous. The pressure is applied with long levers between posts in a very substantial adjustable frame. I think s.steel that thick would require hydraulic assistance or a lot of spinach.

Others may be better qualified to help you. Or Google.

Good luck

Bob
 
Thank you for all the input. The point about debry getting into parts of the machine does sound worrying, no idea how likely it would actually be though.

I have seen the wooden reamer with metal strip attached suggested elsewhere, I was doubtful how good a finish it would leave compared to an all metal one. Its probably worth a try so i'll go away and do that before coming back =).
 
woodfarmer":27br56j5 said:
I have never tried spinning metal, would it be possible to spin 2mm thick stainless steel ? I could if necessary use a metal working lathe


regards

I'd give stainless a miss - it's tough in the first place and once you start working it it gets harder. We use 0.5mm at work and thats bad enough! There's some great videos of the process on youtube.
 
TFrench":37nc6pom said:
woodfarmer":37nc6pom said:
I have never tried spinning metal, would it be possible to spin 2mm thick stainless steel ? I could if necessary use a metal working lathe


regards

I'd give stainless a miss - it's tough in the first place and once you start working it it gets harder. We use 0.5mm at work and thats bad enough! There's some great videos of the process on youtube.

Thanks. i usually use 10 or 5mm plate but could get away with laminating 2mm thick stuff. it is the welding that is bit of a learning curve now I can electric weld anymore. and turning from solid is just way too expensive.
 
Another consideration is sparks coming off the grinder can weld themselves to any metal surface they hit, like the bed of the lathe.

My father made a tapered reamer for the tuning pegs of a dulcimer he was making from a 3 corner file. He ground off the teeth and shaped it to the taper he wanted and then sharpened each of the three edges. He made two instalments with it and I it's packed away or I would post a picture.

Pete
 
2 mm is too thick to spin on a home setup.

Grinding on a wood lathe is possible as you describer but is very slow, and very messy indeed.

The (ground) saw blade insert in a shaped wooden reamer is a traditional method for reaming woodwind instruments and works fine. Many well-known woodwind makers use such reamers. Use a stable hardwood.

Keith
 
Purely by chance I came across this YouTube video.

Turning Metal By Hand. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDtrDv6uZTs

Using a conventional metal lathe with collets rather than a wood lathe. He removes the waste conventionally & starts talking about tooling at 8 minutes & cutting at 10 minutes (total 15m 42s)
 

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