Turning Pens

[trevtheturner]

Nice pen, cd. Now you will find all those small offcuts of interesting timbers that you keep, wondering what on earth you might one day do with them ........................

I had an enjoyable day at Stoneleigh today. Came home with an empty wallet as usual. :roll:

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[cd]

I am glad I am the only one to take their Dad out for the day.

Dad's not really a "woody" but really enjoyed the Day and I don't think I've had a day out with just him for years :shock:

Nice pen, can I ask how much the kit of bits cost? :^o

I'm trying hard not to add it up I bought some other things as well but the Mandrel,MT adapter, barell trimmer, 10 kits (5 pen 5 pencil) was about £35 I included some abasives, spare screws and a couple of cutters for my RS230kt. So all in was a bit more than that :!: but they knocked about £10 of the whole lot.

Trev,
Im already changing my idea of what is an offcut, anything bigger than my thumb :shock: can be used .

cd

 

[Gill]

I think I've got lost; you don't often find me in this part of the forum .

His Lordship videotaped part of a television programme today which shows how wooden pens are turned. If anyone would like a copy, I've transferred it to WMV format - just PM me your email address and I'll send it. The file is large (7.88MB) so it takes about 5 minutes to download on 1mb broadband. The programme itself is just under 5 minutes long.

Gill

 

[WoodPecker]

What type of lathe would be suitable for turning pens?

 

[Taffy Turner]

I think most lathes are capable of turning pens - you just nee dthe correct mandrel.

If you are buying a lathe just to turn pens, then most of the mini-lathes would do the job I would have though.

Regards

Gary

 

[trevtheturner]

Hi Adrian,

Exactly what Gary said.

In addition, if you do not have a lathe but are contemplating getting one, be aware that turning can become addictive! (Ask Chas.). It is most unlikely, indeed almost certain, that you would not want to stop at turning pens.

Before I started turning I sought advice from lots of turners and the best advice I received from some of the 'pros' was to get the biggest and best that I could within my budget. This was on the basis that on a small lathe you can only turn small things, but on a large lathe you can turn large things and also small things (down to miniatures if you want). So I bought a lathe with 40" between centres and a maximum bowl turning capacity of 30" diameter - this is the lathe I use for pen turning. :wink: If you buy a small one, probably within about 3 months you will be wanting to ditch it for a larger one.

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[Taffy Turner]

Hi Adrian,

I would agree 100% with Trevor.

FWIW in the For Sale section at the back of this months Woodturning magazine there is a second hand Record CL4 for sale for £600.

This is the lathe that I have, and I am more than happy with it. It is a lot of lathe for the money, and at £600, provided it is in good nick (advert claims nearly new), I wouldn't have thought you could go far wrong.

Regards

Gary

 

[WoodPecker]

Those are encouraging comments. I've committed to buying a SH CL3, from a good source Reckoned I'd bite the bullet straight off, I'm sure I'll manage with the manual speed change.

I've read a good few chapters of Keith Rowleys book.
And my better half is buying me the 6 piece RP spindle turning set for Crimbo.

Should be well set for the new year 8)

By the way Gill thanks for sending (And taping) the pen turning vid, great introduction.

 

[Taffy Turner]

Adrian,

The CL3 is a perfectly good lathe. Once you become more experienced, if you decide that you want to upgrade to variable speed (well worth it IMHO), you can buy an upgrade kit (this was discussed on here a few months ago - a search should find the thread OK).

You won't go far wrong with the RP spindle turning set.

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Regards

Gary

 

[Taffy Turner]

A question for the experienced pen turners out there - when drilling the blanks do you use a brad point drill or a normal bullet point?

I have a load of blanks to drill this w/e, and am wondering which drill would be best?

Cheers

Gary

 

[cd]

Gary,
Wouldn't say I'm experienced ( made six now) but I did drill for 20 pens at the weekend and used a brad point.
I find it much easier to drill where I want with a brad point for most things tbh.

cd

 

[trevtheturner]

Hi Gary,

I use just an ordinary HSS bit in my drill press. 7mm bit is recommended for the 7mm slimline pens but I now use a 6.9mm (obtained from Axminster) as I find this provides a better fit for the brass tubes. I don't know whether it is standard practice but I also give the tubes a going-over with abrasive paper to remove the tarnish on them and to provide some roughening to provide a good key for the glue.

What do you, and cd, use to hold your blanks for drilling? I use a simple jig made of two pieces of wood, about 2" wide x 5" high, joined at right angles along their length and absolutely square across their bottom edges. I then merely fix the blank into the right angle with two small quick clamps and hold the assembly down square onto the drill press table. I find this quick and easy, and saves me 40+ quid for a special pen blank vice from Axminster. Mind you, if I was really making a lot of them .....

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[Taffy Turner]

CD, Trev,

Thanks for the advice.

Yes - first job is to make a jig to hold the blanks square. I will try using both bits and see if there is a difference.

What do you guys use to glue the barrels in with? I was planning on using Gorilla glue, which is a PU glue, and as such will foam, hopefully helping to center the barrel in the hole. I have seen both PU glues and Cyanoacrylates recommended on various websites, but there is nothing like a personal recommendation.

Regards

Gary

 

[trevtheturner]

Hi Gary,

I actually use both types of glue for fixing the barrels.

If I am preparing some blanks for future use, or if the tubes are a bit loose in the blank, I use Titebond polyurethane. Probably exactly the same as Gorilla - it foams and has the gap filling properties. I leave these to cure for at least eight hours, usually overnight.

If I want to get on with a pen straightaway I use cyanoacrylate - the slow cure one which has a setting time of 20 seconds+. But you still need to be quick. On more than one occasion I have found the tube stuck half in, half out!

If you don't already have one, I strongly recommend the tube inserter tool (£4.10) available from Turners Retreat (01302-744344 - www.turners-retreat.co.uk). This allows you to get the tube home quickly and safely whilst keeping the glue off your fingers. But be sparing with the cyanoacrylate, else you may find the tube is stuck fast to the inserter from the squeeze-out. DAMHIKT! Experience has taught me that it's in with the tube and out with the inserter almost as one action, then wipe/clean the inserter before the next one.

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[Taffy Turner]

Cheers Trev,

I will bare that in mind - it wouldn't be the first time I have supeglued the wrong items together!!!

Learned an interesting fact when using superglue to glue a crack in a blank the other day. It is much better to remove your Trend Airstream before using the glue, otherwise it blows nasty fumes in your face, which makes your eyes burn for about an hour after!!

I certainly won't be making that mistake again in a hurry. I had to go back into the house and flush my eyes out with water in the end.

No long term harm done as far as I can tell. #-o

Regards

Gary

 

[cd]

Hi Gary,
I've only used CA glue for the barrels the barrels I've had a couple come loose when I'm trimming the blanks square so I might try some polyurethane glue next time. I too would recommend an inserter for the tubes but being a bit tight I just turned one. If I get a chance tonight I'll take a picture of it and the guide I've made to drill the blanks, its much easier than trying to describe them.

It is much better to remove your Trend Airstream before using the glue, otherwise it blows nasty fumes in your face which makes your eyes burn for about an hour after!!

I certainly won't be making that mistake again in a hurry.

I remeber that, But you only do it once :wink:


cd

 

[Johnboy]

I use a 5 minute epoxy to glue the tubes in. Fills any gaps and is quick setting. Never had one come loose.

John

 

[cd]

I found a few minutes to take a couple of pics this evening

first two are the guide I made up to drill the blanks

and with a blank held in it

and the simple tube inserter I turned

out of interest what do you use to finish your pens, I've only used friction polish so far and it seems OK but I'm wondering what other have tried.

cd

 

[trevtheturner]

Gary,

Thanks for the tip about superglue fumes. I have never noticed them so far, so it's nice to be made aware of the danger. Pleased to hear that there was no lasting harm done.

cd,

Thanks for the pics. of your drilling jig. That is exactly what I do - and you're right, a picture is worth a thousand words. :wink:

Also like your tube inserter, just the job. And to think, I got sucked in at a show and wasted four quid on mine!

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[trevtheturner]

cd,

Pen finishing - I have tried the following:

For wooden pens I have tried various methods.
a. sanding sealer, flattened with 0000 wire wool, then waxed.
b. sanding sealer, flattened, then melamine lacquer burnished with burnishing cream, then waxed.
c. the method I have finally settled on, quick and easy with just as good results, friction polish followed with a polish with carnauba wax from a stick with the lathe running at high speed. I have turned three ebony pens this evening. An absolutely filthy wood to turn but a brilliant glass-like finish achieved with this method.

I have also turned acrylic and corian for pens. I use a 3/8" beading/parting tool, used as a scraper, horizontal on the tool rest to provide a finished surface on the blank, then a light sanding with 1200 wet 'n' dry, then burnish with the cream, followed by friction polish. Prior to discovering Chestnut burnishing cream I used car rubbing-down compound on these, followed by car polish. That worked okay too.

So, having gone through all my trials and errors, what it comes down to is - friction polish. My only reservation about friction polish is that the finish may not be as durable as, say, a lacquer. However, as it is speedy and I've not had any complaints so far, I'll stick with it for the time being.

Cheers,

Trev.