Turning chisel
- Thread starter pjwillms
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How to open a can of worms,
Ok joking aside there are so many methods of sharpening, have a look at you tube
Once you have had a look, decide if you want
1. Free hand with traditional oil stone or dimond plates
2. Jigs…. And grinders then you have to decide what sort of jig and grinder
Then you are into honing
And all this depends on what sort of tools you have or are going to get
If you decided on replacable carbide tip, then all the above goes straight out the window
Ok joking aside there are so many methods of sharpening, have a look at you tube
Once you have had a look, decide if you want
1. Free hand with traditional oil stone or dimond plates
2. Jigs…. And grinders then you have to decide what sort of jig and grinder
Then you are into honing
And all this depends on what sort of tools you have or are going to get
If you decided on replacable carbide tip, then all the above goes straight out the window
Thanks for your reply I have purchased these tools to start.
HSS Cryogenic Turning Tools
M2 high-speed steel woodturning tools, I don't now if any good I will give them a go I will need a grinder with these tools I think.alex robinson
Established Member
The Rutlands ones? They look fine.
In my opinion, you will definitely need some sort of grinder. Katomi jokes about a can of worms because asking "what is the best method of sharpening" on here is a bit like lighting the touch paper on a firework. Normally there are multiple different answers each adamant all other options are wrong. Bit disappointed the frenzy hasn't started on this thread yet!
I would suggest getting a jig of some sort. Little and often is best for turning tools. Many available for both dry and wet grinders. Wolverine, Sorby, record or if you are feeling extravagant tormek.
I upgraded to a Sorby pro edge a while ago and find it fantastic. Not cheap, but a pleasure to use.
Whatever you go for, make sure it is quick and convenient to use. That way it doesn't feel a chore and you won't be tempted to put it off. Nothing less fun than trying to turn with blunt tools.
In my opinion, you will definitely need some sort of grinder. Katomi jokes about a can of worms because asking "what is the best method of sharpening" on here is a bit like lighting the touch paper on a firework. Normally there are multiple different answers each adamant all other options are wrong. Bit disappointed the frenzy hasn't started on this thread yet!
I would suggest getting a jig of some sort. Little and often is best for turning tools. Many available for both dry and wet grinders. Wolverine, Sorby, record or if you are feeling extravagant tormek.
I upgraded to a Sorby pro edge a while ago and find it fantastic. Not cheap, but a pleasure to use.
Whatever you go for, make sure it is quick and convenient to use. That way it doesn't feel a chore and you won't be tempted to put it off. Nothing less fun than trying to turn with blunt tools.
Stigmorgan
Established Member
As Katomi said, there are many options when it comes to sharpening and everyone has their own opinion on what's best, I opted for an 8inch bench grinder and a Robert Sorby jig set, the biggest downfall to general benchtop grinders is their speed causing overheating and they can remove a lot of metal quickly if you're not careful. If money wasn't an object I'd probably have the Robert Sorby pro edge system.
If your budget goes that far then Sorby Pro Edge - spend your time learning to turn instead of learning to sharpen !
Orraloon
Established Member
Like the others have said there are so many ways to do it and some of those can cost an arm and a leg so budget will likely come into the mix.
A basic 8'' grinder and some jigs would be the budget option. Even more budget then make the jigs yourself.
Wood Turning Tools: Sharpening
Regards
John
A basic 8'' grinder and some jigs would be the budget option. Even more budget then make the jigs yourself.
Wood Turning Tools: Sharpening
Regards
John
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
At normal turning speeds you will cut a mile of wood every five minutes or so, so you will be doing plenty of sharpening! This is why most people look for fast ways to sharpen but you can sharpen by hand if you prefer.
If you are going for powered sharpening, you have three options - a bench grinder, a whetstone grinder or a belt sharpener the bench grinders are the cheaper of the three.
Most bench grinders have small platforms so you will probably want to augment that with something bigger. You can buy one or make your own from mdf (which is what I did when I started). You may also want to buy jigs to aid your sharpening. The jigs aren't essential but it does make life easier and improves repeatability, which prolongs tool life. White aluminium oxide wheels are preferable to the grey carborundum wheels for sharpening HSS. You can pay lots of money for fancy wheels like CBN but they aren't essential.
If you buy a whetstone grinder, they sharpen well but slower than a bench grinder so major reshaping takes much longer. You may also find you want a few different jigs for one of these but you could get away with just a platform attachment.
The belt sharpeners are much more expensive than bench grinders but you have the option of switching belts quickly which can be useful. Some people like these because they prefer flat bevels. However, some of the belt sharpeners struggle to produce some of the more exotic grinds such as the Ellsworth grind so decide what you are trying to achieve before splashing out.
Don't get sucked in by the hype and think you need to take out a second mortgage! all you need is an abrasive surface to sharpen the tool and that could even be a piece of MDF with some sheet abrasive on it.
If you are going for powered sharpening, you have three options - a bench grinder, a whetstone grinder or a belt sharpener the bench grinders are the cheaper of the three.
Most bench grinders have small platforms so you will probably want to augment that with something bigger. You can buy one or make your own from mdf (which is what I did when I started). You may also want to buy jigs to aid your sharpening. The jigs aren't essential but it does make life easier and improves repeatability, which prolongs tool life. White aluminium oxide wheels are preferable to the grey carborundum wheels for sharpening HSS. You can pay lots of money for fancy wheels like CBN but they aren't essential.
If you buy a whetstone grinder, they sharpen well but slower than a bench grinder so major reshaping takes much longer. You may also find you want a few different jigs for one of these but you could get away with just a platform attachment.
The belt sharpeners are much more expensive than bench grinders but you have the option of switching belts quickly which can be useful. Some people like these because they prefer flat bevels. However, some of the belt sharpeners struggle to produce some of the more exotic grinds such as the Ellsworth grind so decide what you are trying to achieve before splashing out.
Don't get sucked in by the hype and think you need to take out a second mortgage! all you need is an abrasive surface to sharpen the tool and that could even be a piece of MDF with some sheet abrasive on it.
I do turning, carving and general woodwork and have different methods for all. Sharpening all the time but definitely not an expert.
I don’t have any cryo tools.
Turning - slow speed grinder (creusen) with Wolverine jigs. Sticking to only 2 angles. Keep it simple and be aware grinding dust can discolour wood. Grinding makes your tools shorter…
Carving - keep a waterstone on the sink behind my carving station. Used every day. Follow up with honing on leather wheel of Tormek T8. Any form of stropping works.
General - Tormek is great for really fine repeatable edges, but it is a bit of a faff for turning. Fiddling about with jigs tends to put you off stopping to sharpen as you need to touch up very frequently.
I inherited a WorkZone flat belt grinder and it fits into the mix well, if I was starting out with nothing I would like Sorby Pro Edge but spent the money on a powered face mask!
Because I have a sink in my workshop am very keen on waterstones.
Notwithstanding all the arguments, keeping tools sharp by whatever method you choose will improve safety, performance and therefore enjoyment.
I don’t have any cryo tools.
Turning - slow speed grinder (creusen) with Wolverine jigs. Sticking to only 2 angles. Keep it simple and be aware grinding dust can discolour wood. Grinding makes your tools shorter…
Carving - keep a waterstone on the sink behind my carving station. Used every day. Follow up with honing on leather wheel of Tormek T8. Any form of stropping works.
General - Tormek is great for really fine repeatable edges, but it is a bit of a faff for turning. Fiddling about with jigs tends to put you off stopping to sharpen as you need to touch up very frequently.
I inherited a WorkZone flat belt grinder and it fits into the mix well, if I was starting out with nothing I would like Sorby Pro Edge but spent the money on a powered face mask!
Because I have a sink in my workshop am very keen on waterstones.
Notwithstanding all the arguments, keeping tools sharp by whatever method you choose will improve safety, performance and therefore enjoyment.
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
If you want to go down the grinder route, someone on here is (was?) selling a Creusen grinder (check its the slow speed version which are still fast, just not as fast as a normal bench grinder). These can be fitted with jigs for grinding turning tools and could be a lower budget option.
FWIW, I have a Creusen as well as a Tomek and use the same jigs on both. Morag explains the differences quite well above.
FWIW, I have a Creusen as well as a Tomek and use the same jigs on both. Morag explains the differences quite well above.
Last edited:
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I'd do straight edge skews by hand on an oil stone (a little and often!)
Not so easy for other turning tools - if you have an outboard end to your headstock then a sanding disc on a faceplate is about the simplest thing, and highly effective. You can buy velcro attached discs for easy change of grit.
Not so easy for other turning tools - if you have an outboard end to your headstock then a sanding disc on a faceplate is about the simplest thing, and highly effective. You can buy velcro attached discs for easy change of grit.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
The newer ones have a DVD. Buy one.
https://www.google.com/search?gs_ss...ExNDI0ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?gs_ss...ExNDI0ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
And the feeding frenzey starts… it will take you longer to read all the advice than it would to sharpen the tools
