TS200 Cutting Capacity

[studders]

Having recently assembled my new acquisition something was nagging at me. :|
Then it hit me........
With everything assembled and adjusted as per the Manual the lowest point on the blade guard was only 40mm from the table when the blade was at its highest. ???
I re-checked everything and got the same result.
If I measure the blade projection then it's 60+mm so I appear to be losing almost an inch of cutting depth. Have I done something wrong? Is the Riving Knife wrong? Or is this normal and you can only cut the stated capacity by removing the Guard?
I managed to get just over 50mm of cutting depth by lifting the riving knife but, that means it isn't as close to the blade as recommended, something I'm not 100% happy about.

Advice welcomed.

 

[hanser]

Can't offer any advice but interested in this thread....my Xmas TS200 is still waiting to come out of its box....

 

[OPJ]

There's a similar problem with the Elektra Beckum PK200 that I have... On my saw, the riving knife is slotted so that you can raise it up enough. I've got a feeling that some TS-200 owners, here, might have modified their riving knives in the past? Might be worth searching through some old posts; particularly that very lengthy one that wizer did... I'm sure RobertMP also did a thread but, that may have been on another forum.

When setting the blade height, remember that you ideally want the gullets to be slightly higher and just clear of the top face of the thickness of timber you're cutting. Otherwise, sawdust may not clear as efficiently and you may have trouble with overheating. I wouldn't worry too much about the guard being "higher" - provided that it's no more than 10mm above the timber and you're using a push-stick, you should be safe.

 

[studders]

Ta Olly but, 'tis the riving knife that I had to raise to be able to cut some 2" stock. It's now about 7-8mm away from the nearest tooth of the blade and the destructions say it should be 3mm.
'Tis an odd one.
The only way round it that I can see is to make my own riving knife that holds the guard higher whilst still being close enough to the blade.

 

[OPJ]

Okay, sorry, I understand what you are saying, now...

3mm, though?!? Health & Safety regs. state that the riving knife should be no more than 8mm away from the back of the blade when measured at the bed level. It sounds like you've actually improved the situation, if you ask me! ;-)

 

[studders]

I think I'll see how it goes, at least I can now cut 2" stock which is the thickest I normally use.
Still interested in how the claimed 60+ mm cutting depth is possible with the guard in place, 'cos I can't see how it can be done.

 

[tisdai]

Hi studders

Here are some of the posts for the TS200 blade and knife mods.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/a-few-mods-to-my-ts-200-t47059.html

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/my-workshop-garage-and-some-more-ts-mods-t47293.html

HTH

Cheers

Dave

 

[studders]

Thanks for that Dave.
Interesting that one of them mentions the max cutting depth, with the standard blade, is only 55mm and not the 63 claimed.
Hmmmm.
I'll also be copying the zero clearance insert as I've already had an offcut jam in the original plate.

 

[Ateallthepies]

Yes my original blade only raised to 55mm and I have yet to investigate why it did not go to the stated 60mm. It is academic now as I have finished all the mods and got a full 65mm cut.

Yes the riving knife will have to be re-made if you want the full height of cut and also keep the gap between it and the teeth the required distance. I admit I don't use the guard at the moment and is something I need to remedy.


Steve.

 

[studders]

That's the thing that puzzles me, though I suspect I know the answer now.
My blade will go to around 65mm above the table but, I can't cut to that depth as the lowest part of the guard, at the fixing bolt, is a good inch below the top of the blade.
The only way I'm going to get the stated depth of cut is by either taking the guard off, which I don't think is a good idea, or by making a new riving knife that lifts the guard up higher.

 

[PeterSk]

I cut the hole for the top guard into a slot to make it easy to put on/remove. Don't find it makes much difference TBH though, so I leave it off more often than not so I can see everything lining up properly. So long as your push stick/featherboard practices are sound you'll never come close enough to the blade to get into trouble

 

[studders]

Unless you have a lapse in concentration, which with me is highly likely. In fact I'd probably gash myself with the blade not turning at all.
Guard on for me.

 

[Steve Maskery]

This is one of the problems of having an integrated riving knife and guard support. An 8mm gap between the blade and RK is at the max end of recommended setting. The RK & guard on my (otherwise excellent) Xcalibur was awful and I have replaced both. My guard now is mounted on a boom arm from the far right corner and the RK does nothing except be an RK. If you use a thin-kerf blade you are going to have to change (probably make) the RK anyway as the original will be too thick.
Cheers
Steve

 

[studders]

I think a separate guard is probably the way to go and, on this saw, is probably worth doing as I will gain (re-gain) valuable cutting depth. I'll re do the RK when I replace the blade, which will be done soon as the supplied one gives a very rough finish.

 

[Ateallthepies]

If you want my original TS-200 blade and you are passing through Rickmansworth then you can have it? Not worth me sending it I think?

Steve.

 

[studders]

Thanks for the offer but I'll probably go for a Freud or something similar.