Trouble shooting hand planes

[Ttrees]

If your (sic) finding the timber prone to tearing out.........

Did he mention that?

Therefore, why bring it up other than hop on your old hobby horse again? Every single planing thread........sheesh.

The OP is curious about full width shavings Mike, so that was just to clear up the assumption that full width shavings are hard to achieve.
The tearout prevention comment is just a bonus as some folk think sanding or scraping flat surfaces makes sense.
Tom

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Your eye is incredibly accurate

Good point and an oft neglected detail. Fingertips will also help to line it up (albeit extremely carefully) and have been proven to detect discrepancies down to 13 nanometres :shock: which is just nuts.

When I first used a plane 50+ years ago my woodwork master used to watch me set it by touch and take it off me. He'd sight it and hand it back without a word. After doing this half a dozen times he said well, what you're doing isn't usual but it works for you so it's fine. I've always found them way easier to set by touch.

 

[Jacob]

The camber is essential, needed for taking heavy swipes off a board.
Depending on the work you do, it will dictate the amount of camber you need.........

Yep. You don't need camber if what you are planing is an edge narrower than the plane blade but you do on anything wider.
Planing wider stuff is basically a series of shallow scoops - deep camber if you want to remove a lot quickly as per scrub plane, shallow for finishing, and all stages of camber in between.
Modern sharpeners struggle with planing because they use jigs which don't work except on flat stones, producing a straight edge which is impractical for most purposes.

 

[Racers]

Modern sharpeners struggle with planing because they use jigs which don't work except on flat stones, producing a straight edge which is impractical for most purposes.

Yet the OP said he used a jig and got a camber.

How about answering the question rather than pushing your warped understanding of what other people do ad infinitum.

My guess is too much pressure on the edges of the blade causing the camber, its what I do with my jig to camber the blade.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

...the OP said he used a jig and got a camber.......
How about answering the question rather than pushing your warped understanding of what other people do ad infinitum.....

No need to be such an offensive warped little twerp.
The OP states quite clearly in his first post "I’ve used my Veritas guide and the cutting iron is perfectly square". How he gets from that to an apparently cambered blade I've no idea, nor has anybody else.

 

[Racers]

Read my reply.

Pete

 

[Dan689]

.

If your adamant on having a plane that takes full width shavings, you need another plane really.
Yes, you could just get another double iron and swap them out, I wouldn't want to bother faffing about like that though.


Good luck
Tom[/quote]

So far most things I’ve done have been DIY driven doing up the old house and he new, wood came off the table saw or jointer to get the job done.. I’m now looking to work with some trees I slabbed up a few years back, apple being the first. But all hard wood

I’m not after a certain width of shaving but simply thought I was getting it wrong and so wanted to get it right going forward.. I’ll watch the video later

Thanks

 

[MikeG.]

If your (sic) finding the timber prone to tearing out.........

Did he mention that?

Therefore, why bring it up other than hop on your old hobby horse again? Every single planing thread........sheesh.

The OP is curious about full width shavings Mike

Exactly

The tearout prevention comment is just a bonus

As I said, just the same old hobby horse. Every single planing thread.

 

[MikeG.]

........I’m not after a certain width of shaving but simply thought I was getting it wrong .......

You're not. Generally it is sensible to have the shaving slightly tapered towards the outside edges, otherwise you will get sharp edges left on the face of the wood when planing anything wider than the width of the plane blade.

 

[MikeG.]

Yet the OP said he used a jig and got a camber.

No, he doesn't Pete. He says his edge is perfectly flat and square. I think it safe to assume he has actually got a camber, but he claims he hasn't.

 

[Dan689]

The camber is essential, needed for taking heavy swipes off a board.
Depending on the work you do, it will dictate the amount of camber you need.........

Yep. You don't need camber if what you are planing is an edge narrower than the plane blade but you do on anything wider.
Planing wider stuff is basically a series of shallow scoops - deep camber if you want to remove a lot quickly as per scrub plane, shallow for finishing, and all stages of camber in between.
Modern sharpeners struggle with planing because they use jigs which don't work except on flat stones, producing a straight edge which is impractical for most purposes.

Yer I was only trying to set the plan on the 3/4” stock. Would you suggest a plane for jointing and then another for panel work? As it happens I have a few to refurbish and get to work with

 

[Dan689]

My guess is too much pressure on the edges of the blade causing the camber, its what I do with my jig to camber the blade.

Pete[/quote]

Yer I did it square in the guide then tilted to take corners off but only 3 or 4 strokes.. thought that what you’re meant to do going off paul Sellers video??

 

[thetyreman]

The trick is rounding the edges just enough, it took me a while to get that right, I usually count to 10 and never more and gradually raise it by about 1/8" 3mm and find it's just right on plane blades, I still use a guide though on spokeshaves, cabinet scrapers and mortise chisels.

 

[MikeG.]

........Yer I was only trying to set the plan on the 3/4” stock........

Hang on a sec....... Are you saying that you weren't managing to take a 3/4" wide shaving from the edge of a board? If so, that's nothing to do with a camber. That'll be entirely down to holding the plane square to the face you are planing (ie flat on the edge of the board).

Are you holding the knob at the front of the plane? If so, then take your hand off that, and instead place your thumb on the body of the plane directly above the wood you are trying to plane, and use your knuckle underneath the plane to guide the plane along the wood without zig-zagging side to side. A little pressure with your thumb, and a slow approach to the planing operation, and you'll soon have a full width shaving. If you don't, then your blade isn't sharp. To do this without stripping the flesh from your knuckles you have to lift the board high up in the vice.

 

[Dan689]

........Yer I was only trying to set the plan on the 3/4” stock........

Hang on a sec....... Are you saying that you weren't managing to take a 3/4" wide shaving from the edge of a board? If so, that's nothing to do with a camber. That'll be entirely down to holding the plane square to the face you are planing (ie flat on the edge of the board).

Are you holding the knob at the front of the plane? If so, then take your hand off that, and instead place your thumb on the body of the plane directly above the wood you are trying to plane, and use your knuckle underneath the plane to guide the plane along the wood without zig-zagging side to side. A little pressure with your thumb, and a slow approach to the planing operation, and you'll soon have a full width shaving. If you don't, then your blade isn't sharp. To do this without stripping the flesh from your knuckles you have to lift the board high up in the vice.

No it was a 3/4 wide board the at I was trying to set the plane on.. a stroke down the center the the right then left to try get an even cut across the blade. Using the center it cuts well and squared up the edge nicely.

I think I was expecting a 40mm shaving from the blade but in reality from what’s been said I shouldn’t expect that.

I’ll have a play next week and go form there.

Cheers for all the advice from all (hammer)