Triton routers for under a table - Quick TRA query

[stimpy]

Pretty sure I am going to go this direction - though always possible for a last minute swerve!..

My query is this: Is there any reason you would pick the MOF over the TRA for a dedicated under the table option or just get the TRA end of chat?...

 

[MikeJhn]

The trouble with a Triton router in a table is the automatic lock when you raise the router to change the bit, you have to grope around under the table to unlock it, that soon becomes an absolute pain, metaphorically and physically.

 

[stimpy]

The trouble with a Triton router in a table is the automatic lock when you raise the router to change the bit, you have to grope around under the table to unlock it, that soon becomes an absolute pain, metaphorically and physically.

I believe one can just wire this out if an issue - won’t cause issue for me.

 

[Droogs]

If you intend to use the router out of the table for a good percentage of the time then and unless you are making big stuff, I would recommend the MOF as it is less tiring to use in the hands. If it will just sit in the table all the time then get the TRA.
I have a TRA in my large table permanently fitted and have the MOF and a couple of other for hand held work. The MOF has a 1/2" collett fitted and the others a 1/2" and 1/4". Then I have 3 Katsu(ii) for for the light duty stuff.

hth

 

[stimpy]

If you intend to use the router out of the table for a good percentage of the time then and unless you are making big stuff, I would recommend the MOF as it is less tiring to use in the hands. If it will just sit in the table all the time then get the TRA.
I have a TRA in my large table permanently fitted and have the MOF and a couple of other for hand held work. The MOF has a 1/2" collett fitted and the others a 1/2" and 1/4". Then I have 3 Katsu(ii) for for the light duty stuff.

hth

Thanks.

If I go with this option it would be in the table the whole time or taken out for big stuff if needed. I do some small oak framing projects (4/6”) sometimes and use a combo of my router and chisels for mortises so I guess the TRA would be more suited to that than abusing my OF1400...

As per my other thread my other option is to get a Jessem lift for my table and use my OF 1400 I already have, swapping it out when needed. I have an OF1010 too which covers plenty of out of table bases for me.

I will add that I am more a hobbyist than a pro , probably 70/30...

 

[pcb1962]

I believe one can just wire this out if an issue - won’t cause issue for me.

Unless you have limited mobility, the triton switch cover isn't an issue at all.
If the router will be permanently in your table and you wire it through an NVR then you can remove the cover and leave the switch permanently on as described here.

 

[stimpy]

Unless you have limited mobility, the triton switch cover isn't an issue at all.
If the router will be permanently in your table and you wire it through an NVR then you can remove the cover and leave the switch permanently on as described here.

Thanks. That’s what I was planning if it bugged me...

 

[MikeJhn]

Why buy a router that you have to modify for its intended use, seems a bit daft to me when so many other options are readily available.

 

[stimpy]

Why buy a router that you have to modify for its intended use, seems a bit daft to me when so many other options are readily available.

What is available for Triton money (£219.99) that has independent remote controls included? I’m all ears!..

 

[southendwoodworker]

I'm like you, and currently building a router table using a triton router.

I ended up getting a mof001 for £169 from screwfix and an aluminium plate for £24 from yandles (they have the blank plate (search for 881268) for that price - the picture on the website shows screw holes, but it definitely doesnt come with any), or for £75 the same plate with 5 holes drilled for triton).

I'm just waiting for the screws to arrive which i brought off ebay for £3, then ill build the table and assemble it all.

I found toolstation had the 1/2 collect going for £13 is too whereas other places were closer to £20

For a fence I am going to try and use is a rockler fence designed for a drill press that yandles are selling for £20 (search for 779851)

To raise it, I am going to initially do it manually using the tool that triton gives in the box, but i plan to work on some electronics and a servo to control it raising up and down over christmas break, aiming for total cost to be under £30

I'll be interested to see how your setup progresses and ill share mine once i start to make some progress

 

[billw]

I had settled on the MOF but given I plan to leave the thing under a table for virtually the whole time then I think the extra money on the TRA is probably worth it.

 

[Sandyn]

I have the TRA. The safety interlock isn't a problem for me, I have quickly got used to operating it blind on my table, but I think it's also a mechanical interlock to stop the motor being switched on when the spindle is up and locked. When the spindle is up, you cannot pull the switch shutter back. If you remove the shutter, is there not a possibility of accidentally raising the router while still running and partially engaging the spindle lock. Not sure what would happen, but could be disastrous.

 

[TRITON]

Not sure what would happen, but could be disastrous.

I reckon the sudden torque or stopping dead from likely 3/4 speed would rip it off its mounts and completely bu66er it.

Taking bits off to save bending down seems a bit extreme to me, and anyway, if its in the table, you control it from the on/off on the table or nvr switch. If you are concerned about it locking when raising it in use then fit a collet extension. You've 80mm to play with there.

Also got the tra and fitted dedicated into the triton table(the old one) Certainly is a lot better than other 1/2" routers.
Problem i find with it is the older one has no through table winder function. But on one knee your eye is level with the table and its easier to see how much or little youre bringing it up.

 

[pcb1962]

If you're stupid enough to be raising it whilst it's running then you shouldn't be anywhere near dangerous tools.

 

[dohertycarpentry]

If you get a musclechuck for it you don't have to raise it completely up, just enough to loosen the grub screw.

 

[Sandyn]

If you're stupid enough to be raising it whilst it's running then you shouldn't be anywhere near dangerous tools.

I don't see the problem raising the router while running. It's the same as plunge routing just upside down.

 

[Spectric]

The trouble with a Triton router in a table is the automatic lock when you raise the router to change the bit, you have to grope around under the table to unlock it, that soon becomes an absolute pain, metaphorically and physically.

The Triton is very good value for money and works well in a table, I would never want to use one handheld as thats where the likes of the Dewalt 625 come in.

Buy one and leave it in the table, the lift mechanism works through a hole in the plate and although not the smoothest it allows you to set the height. It is worth modifying and first thing is remove the spring as recomended by Triton. Now you need to remove the interlock so that the on/off switch remains on even at full height for bit changing and wire it through a remote switch that is easily accessable, this alleviates the pain of fumbling for the normal switch. You must always check that the cutter turns freely following a change, but then that should always be the case anyway. It makes a good basic router setup that unless you spend a lot more on something like the AUK setup will be as good as anything else. If you then get to the point you want more repeatable precision then fit the Triton into a Jessem Prestige lifter, fit a type 8 muscle chuck and remove the collet lock mechanism from the Triton and away you go.

 

[pcb1962]

I don't see the problem raising the router while running. It's the same as plunge routing just upside down.

Is that something that you do?
The only situation where I know of where you might want to do that is a stopped dado, and that is normally done by lowering the workpiece onto the cutter, not by raising the cutter into the workpiece.

 

[Sandyn]

Is that something that you do?
The only situation where I know of where you might want to do that is a stopped dado, and that is normally done by lowering the workpiece onto the cutter, not by raising the cutter into the workpiece.

Yes, but you might be misunderstanding what I do. If I wanted to cut a slot in a bit of wood (as in the picture) I would set up end stops on the table, then start with the bit flush with the table, router running, wood on table, then I would wind up the router about a turn into the wood as I moved it and cut the slot, then wind the router up another turn, cut the slot and repeat. All the time the router is running. The point I was trying to highlight is if you removed the interlock on the switch, you might accidentally reach the point where the automatic spindle lock engages while the router is running.

 

[pcb1962]

The point I was trying to highlight is if you removed the interlock on the switch, you might accidentally reach the point where the automatic spindle lock engages while the router is running.

That's not going to happen on my setup as the collet is more than 5mm above the table before the spindle lock begins to engage, so you'd be lifting the workpiece off the table long before you hit trouble, you'd have to be very inattentive to let that happen. In the pic below the spindle is just about to lock:

Anyway I would not adjust the height with the machine running, my NVR switch is right by the edge of the table so there's no reason at all for not using it.
I can see why if you have to use the switch on the machine you might be tempted to leave it running.