Triton 2000W Router problem

[motownmartin]

This power tool is an excellent bit of kit for table mounting and one of the good points is that you can raise the collet up and above the table top and the automatic locking pin slides into place so you just place the spanner and turn, so far so good and even when you lower the collet the locking pin returns, apart from the other day, I changed the cutter as per usual and set the height, switched on the Router and got a loud rattling sound for a few seconds then nothing, I thought that something was loose so I checked and everything was tight, so I thought I had left something in the vicinity to jam the Router but couldn't find anything, I attempted to start the Router but got nothing so I changed the Fuse in the plug, switched it on and got the same thing again, when I checked this time I noticed that the shaft locking pin had not returned, well I did manage to free it and even applied some oil as it seemed a little stiff, everything was hunkydory.
The next day I went back to do some more routing work and blow me the same thing happened. this time I disassembled the offending item and found that the button which was made of plastic had a swollen lump on it where it had returned with the aid of a spring on to the stop, over a period of time it had gradually got bigger and jammed, a little bit of sandpaper soon got it back to shape, and 3 fuses got me back on track, I think the fuse only went in my extension lead as I have the dust extractor plugged into it as well, I have a double socket on the NVR switch so both come on and go off together.

I had a look for some spares and came to a place named Woodworking Centre Ltd near Northampton, the price for the part was £1.81 which is okay but a carriage fee of £5 :shock: I might wait till i'm passing

Just thought you Triton owners might like to know.

 

[Dave S]

Handy to know. I seem to recall someone else had this happen not so long ago.

Dave

 

[motownmartin]

Handy to know. I seem to recall someone else had this happen not so long ago.

Dave

Yes it is handy to know, I must have missed the last thread that this came up in but the more times its flagged up the better.

 

[Argee]

I assume that the router has been kept in a cold workshop. Is there a possibility that it's also a little damp? If either of those conditions is true, the cold and/or the damp affect the plastic part. A day in the airing cupboard and all is well.

Yes, I KNOW it sounds ridiculous, but it works.

No, I DON'T know why that particular part is affected by the cold and/or damp, but it is.

Ray.

 

[motownmartin]

I assume that the router has been kept in a cold workshop. Is there a possibility that it's also a little damp? If either of those conditions is true, the cold and/or the damp affect the plastic part. A day in the airing cupboard and all is well.

Yes, I KNOW it sounds ridiculous, but it works.

No, I DON'T know why that particular part is affected by the cold and/or damp, but it is.

Ray.

Yes it is cold and damp but I don't think i'll be keeping it in the airing cupboard its more of a small swolen spot that has been caused by the spring return into the stop.

Maybe its because it was made for the warmer climate of Australia :lol:

 

[Argee]

Yes it is cold and damp but I don't think i'll be keeping it in the airing cupboard

Rats! I should have made it clear that it was only the plastic bit that needed to go in the airing cupboard - sorry!

Ray.

 

[lurker]

Rats! I should have made it clear that it was only the plastic bit that needed to go in the airing cupboard - sorry!

Ray.

Too late! Martin is already extending the airing cupboard to house his router table.

 

[motownmartin]

Rats! I should have made it clear that it was only the plastic bit that needed to go in the airing cupboard - sorry!

Ray.

Too late! Martin is already extending the airing cupboard to house his router table.

Did you have a peek when you drove past :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[rebster60]

Hi
Need a quick answer on this router.
Does the height adjustment have a winder handle that fits through the table top when mounted ?
The model I am looking at is a tra001 2000w 1/2", it has rack and pinion adjustment, but I can not see from the sellers picture if it has the table handle adjuster on the router.
The person selling it seems to not have a clue about it.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave.

 

[Argee]

The newer models of the TRA001 do have the through-the-table winding handle, I believe and there's a simple way to confirm this. Follow the fine-adjustment knob vertically downwards to the bottom of the lower casing (the silver part). If there's a small "T" bar poking out the bottom of the casing, it's got the winder, if the casing is smooth and rounded, it doesn't have it. I've got models that have it, but I never use it anyway, as I'm down at table-top level to check out the bit height, so I'm happy to turn the coarse adjuster (rack-and-pinion) up past the required height, then back down with the fine adjuster. Remember to remove the plunge spring whichever method you use.

Ray

 

[JJ1]

When I bought mine a few months ago, it did come with a handle.

 

[foxhunter]

I'm with Argee with this. After struggling with a fine height adjuster on my Elu I decided that only a Triton with an above-table adjuster would solve the problem of spending all that time on my knees. A few weeks later I abandoned the 'cranking handle', I could rarely fit it though the hole in the table top and straight on to the "T" bar.
On a slight different tack my only problem is the lack of a 1/4in collet. Any cutter of this size I use rides up in the collet regardless of how tight the the cutter is fitted in the reducer.

 

[Argee]

foxhunter, you really need to change over to the newer collet chuck assembly. Here's how:

Chuck Assembly Removal and Replacement

The procedure is the same, no matter what style or type of chuck assembly is fitted. It is carried out with the router removed from the table.

Disconnect power cord completely
Remove both carbon brushes, noting their position and orientation for later replacement
Note the direction of rotation shown by the arrow cast into the router base - you need to spin the router shaft counter to this arrow (i.e., anti-clockwise when viewed from above)
If you have an airline, or access to one, the backward spin can be achieved by pointing a jet of air at the cooling vanes - seen through the slots at the lower end of the bottom motor housing
If you do not have an airline, cut a length of string or fairly stout cord around 500mm (20"). Wrap this around the collet in such a way that you will be able to pull it and generate a backwards spin in the same way that you power a gyroscope. To achieve this you may need to remove the clear plastic dust shroud(s)
Whatever method you use to obtain the backward rotation, once the router shaft is spinning, you need to operate the spring-loaded shaft lock, with your thumb, to engage it into the spinning collet and shock it off the router shaft threads. For this to happen, the router needs to be spinning fast enough to achieve the shock, but not too fast to cause damage to the shaft lock pin. Try engaging the pin at a low speed first, increasing speed gradually until the collet spins off
Replacement is a reversal of the process, this time spinning the router in its operating direction (clockwise, when viewed from above). Replace the carbon brushes (not too tight, or they'll split) and dust shroud(s)
Once the new collet is in place, DO NOT attempt to tighten it onto the router shaft with the wrench without a cutter inserted, as this will result in a locked collet. Mount a straight cutter into the new collet, then plunge it fairly rapidly into a scrap piece of hardwood to fully tighten the collet assembly.

You'll need to get the following parts to complete the job:

http://www.toolsparesonline.com/product ... -body.aspx - Chuck body

http://www.toolsparesonline.com/product ... sy-12.aspx - ½" Collet

http://www.toolsparesonline.com/product ... sy-14.aspx - ¼" Collet

A 24mm open-ended wrench will also be needed. I've probably got a spare if you need one.

Strictly speaking, the ¼" Collet is not essential, as you could carry on using the reducing sleeve due to the more effective tightening of the new collet. However, to do the job properly and remove for ever any sleeve-related problems, a dedicated ¼" Collet is the answer.

N.B: This new style of collet is called a "self-releasing" style, which needs explaining. When removing a cutter, upon undoing the nut with your wrench the collet will appear to go slack, but the bit is still captured. The collet nut should be given a further turn with the wrench, upon which the shoulders will release the bit. DO NOT attempt to pull the cutter from the collet until you have performed the second turn of the wrench, or you may slice your fingers!

HTH?

Ray

 

[rebster60]

Thanks all for your reply's
you have been a great help.

 

[dm65]

Argee, thanks for that post re new chuck assembly, most informative (or will be when you correct the links )

I too have the reducing sleeve (afterthought) and while I haven't had a problem with it (yet), I prefer a dedicated collet so will bookmark this for ron (later on)

 

[Argee]

All links now working!

Ray

 

[DMF]

Hi Ray,

just to check and apologies if i'm being thick, this is advice for changing if you want to use a 1/4" cutter yes? I take it the 1/2" part listed is only if you want to change over to include the use of smaller cutters, I have a older one and have no intention of letting it out the table or using 1/4" so mod not needed is how i read it? Only had a play with it so far but don't want my first proper RT attempt to possibly include the cutter coming lose!

Thanks,

Dean