woodbloke66
Established Member
Image deleted - RobI hope that you intend to post this project, Rob. I love secret drawers!
Regards from Perth
Derek
Image deleted - RobI hope that you intend to post this project, Rob. I love secret drawers!
Regards from Perth
Derek
TheTiddles":20us2aw6 said:Marking out lines on drawer sides are like leaving tailor’s chalk on your suit........
Sheffield Tony":ao9r4fex said:Which is interesting; one of the approaches to making a really snug drawer (see, heading back on topic) that I've seen recommended is to make the front fit precisely, then make the sides out of slightly oversized (thickness wise) stock, then plane the sides of the finished drawer down to match the front. If the scribe lines show, then it wasn't done that way.
Ahhh … I see! (I imagine you can here the penny dropping even at this distance.) The implication is that with something that has dead straight grain, the cut can be done without too much worry but with something like that jarrah, it's a matter of pick your spot carefully.Andy, my reasoning was this: I could cut with a Japanese saw, which leaves a fine surface and a fine kerf. But I am still going to have to shoot the ends to ensure that they are perfectly square to one another - that is, both sides. That can add up to a wider kerf. So, go for the table saw, which will leave a fine and square cut with a predictable cut/kerf.
Damned if you do and damned if you don't.
The other factor is one of planning. Planning the cutting, that is. It is an illusion that there are three possible kerfs. Or two, if just thinking about the drawer. There are, in fact, no kerfs to worry about (if the saw cuts are perfectly straight): as you cut one side, the next piece is butted against it, and so on. No gaps. What you have to worry about is the effect on the figure. Can you get away with it - will the figure tell the story? Answer: look where you are cutting.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Andy, my reasoning was this: I could cut with a Japanese saw, which leaves a fine surface and a fine kerf. But I am still going to have to shoot the ends to ensure that they are perfectly square to one another - that is, both sides. That can add up to a wider kerf. So, go for the table saw, which will leave a fine and square cut with a predictable cut/kerf.
Damned if you do and damned if you don't.
The other factor is one of planning. Planning the cutting, that is. It is an illusion that there are three possible kerfs. Or two, if just thinking about the drawer. There are, in fact, no kerfs to worry about (if the saw cuts are perfectly straight): as you cut one side, the next piece is butted against it, and so on. No gaps. What you have to worry about is the effect on the figure. Can you get away with it - will the figure tell the story? Answer: look where you are cutting.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I did mention the finishes used early on. Pictures and all.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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