Track saw at 45 degrees - rubber edge ruined?

[Molynoox]

I want to make a 45 degree cut with my tracksaw but I'm concerned that doing so will screw up the rubber edge on the track. Does anybody know if doing an angle cut on a track saw damages the rubber edge on the track or not?

thanks
Martin

 

[Distinterior]

I cant speak for other makes of tracksaw, but the Festool saws don't re cut the Anti Splinter strip when setting the saw to cut at an angle.

What make is your tracksaw...?

 

[baldkev]

I would imagine the pivot point on all of them would be set so the track stays accurate ( i.e, cuts the exact same line regardless of angle ) otherwise you'd have to keep changing the strips

 

[Molynoox]

Yes I was assuming the same but thought I would check

I have the makita

 

[John Brown]

Yes I was assuming the same but thought I would check

I have the makita

I agree, but I'm have trouble visualizing how that could work with a single pivot point, without the pivot being in the same plane as the strip.

 

[Molynoox]

I agree, but I'm have trouble visualizing how that could work with a single pivot point, without the pivot being in the same plane as the strip.

Same here, it appears to be impossible unless it is a clever mechanism that offsets the pivot at same time as pivoting....

 

[Doug71]

You could just set your saw to 45 degrees. stand it on the track and with the power turned off gently push it down to see if it hits the splinter guard

 

[Molynoox]

You could just set your saw to 45 degrees. stand it on the track and with the power turned off gently push it down to see if it hits the splinter guard

Lol why didn't I think of that

 

[Distinterior]

I always cut the material at 90' first, then re set the saw to 45' without moving the rail and then make the angled cut. The rail needs to be clamped down...!
Steady feed rate and ensure the weight/downward pressure is on the base plate of the saw.

I think the Makita has an Anti Tip mechanism on it....?, but the Festool saws do not, so I have to keep pressure on the base plate.

All the MRMDF in the pics below was mitered at 45' using the technique I described above to create the false bulkhead and the Ceiling bulkhead above the Kitchen Island.

The finished job.....

 

[ChaiLatte]

...I'm having trouble visualizing how that could work with a single pivot point, without the pivot being in the same plane as the strip.

The pivot point is indeed not only on the same plane as the strip, but located on the underside of it. It is not necessary to have a physical axle at the centre of rotation. Look at a ball bearing or lazy susan. The outer race rotates about the inner race, but the centre of both races lies in space.

 

[Molynoox]

I always cut the material at 90' first, then re set the saw to 45' without moving the rail and then make the angled cut. The rail needs to be clamped down...!
Steady feed rate and ensure the weight/downward pressure is on the base plate of the saw.

I think the Makita has an Anti Tip mechanism on it....?, but the Festool saws do not, so I have to keep pressure on the base plate.

All the MRMDF in the pics below was mitered at 45' using the technique I described above to create the false bulkhead.
View attachment 150158View attachment 150159

The finished job.....

View attachment 150160View attachment 150161

Why do you cut it at 90 first if it cuts at 45 to the exact same line?

 

[John Brown]

I always cut the material at 90' first, then re set the saw to 45' without moving the rail and then make the angled cut. The rail needs to be clamped down...!
Steady feed rate and ensure the weight/downward pressure is on the base plate of the saw.

I think the Makita has an Anti Tip mechanism on it....?, but the Festool saws do not, so I have to keep pressure on the base plate.

All the MRMDF in the pics below was mitered at 45' using the technique I described above to create the false bulkhead.
View attachment 150158View attachment 150159

The finished job.....

View attachment 150160View attachment 150161

Now I'm totally confused.

 

[Distinterior]

Why do you cut it at 90 first if it cuts at 45 to the exact same line?

It makes the cut much easier and cleaner as there is far less friction for the blade.

 

[John Brown]

Ok, I should've gone and looked at my tracksaw, but it's been p!ssing down all day. For some odd reason I was imagining it tilting the other way, i.e. with the pivot point at the other side of the track. Now I've got my head round that, the 90 followed by 45 makes sense, but still struggling with the strip not getting bu99ered up with 45 degree cuts.


Ok. Forget that. I can see it now!

 

[Flynnwood]

I always cut the material at 90' first, then re set the saw to 45' without moving the rail and then make the angled cut. The rail needs to be clamped down...!
Steady feed rate and ensure the weight/downward pressure is on the base plate of the saw.

I think the Makita has an Anti Tip mechanism on it....?, but the Festool saws do not, so I have to keep pressure on the base plate.

All the MRMDF in the pics below was mitered at 45' using the technique I described above to create the false bulkhead.
View attachment 150158View attachment 150159

The finished job.....

View attachment 150160View attachment 150161

Brilliant workmanship. Can I ask what is the finish on those doors? (I don't understand the patchy effect.)
Thanks.

 

[Sideways]

I would make test cuts to see what happens when you cut at 90 then tilt the saw.
The Mafell forum has discussion about some of their saws cutting a little further out from the edge of the splinter guard when tilted. It's all down to geometry. Change the blade kerf or plate vs what the saw was setup for, change the thickness of the track, any of these could affect the cut line when tilted. Technique could conceivably affect the cut line as could uneven, unsupported surfaces. Any manufacturer will have production tolerances. Mafell seem to err on the "safe" side at least in some cases, so the bevel cut moves a little away from the splinter guard. Anything that causes the saw to run "higher" will lift the angled blade up and increase the chance of recutting the splinter strip.

I suspect a lot of people don't bother to check this, or only discover any error after the warranty has expired.
As long as it's consistent, I'd rather the bevel cut had a small safety margin away from the splinter guard.

 

[Distinterior]

Brilliant workmanship. Can I ask what is the finish on those doors? (I don't understand the patchy effect.)
Thanks.

It's an 18mm Egger MFC board called " Chromix Anthracite "......Its a stone effect finish.

I made all the cabinets & the doors myself.....

 

[Jameshow]

I would imagine the pivot point on all of them would be set so the track stays accurate ( i.e, cuts the exact same line regardless of angle ) otherwise you'd have to keep changing the strips

The pivot point must be the lower edge if the replacement strip. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to cut down a line at 90° and 45° angles??

 

[ChaiLatte]

The pivot point must be the lower edge of the replacement strip. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to cut down a line at 90° and 45° angles

That is true. Now we have to think whether (or how or if) a TS55 can cut the -1 (minus 1) angle without hitting the strip.

The centre of rotation would have to move to the top of the strip for that to happen (and there would be an offset to the cut edge if that were so).