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Paul.J

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Well i have taken the plunge yet again and gone and bought a Tormek off a forum member.
I was after a new 8" grinder and was looking at the Record one which i was going to get when this one came up.
So when it arrived i couldn't wait to have a go wiyh it.
So with a couple of second hand bowl gouges 1/2" and a 3/8" which had poor grinds on i re-ground thes for a bit of practice.
I managed to use the jig that was with my Sorby and it did sort of work,but is just a little loose on the support bar,so the proper jig will have to be got :roll:
But for a first attempt i think they came out alright,and seem a lot sharper than what i was getting before with the dry stone.
The grind only took a few minutes from what you can see which surprised me at how quick the metal was going down,with the coarse grade,both gouges are HSS.
Just gotta get the lathe now to try em out on :roll:





Click on piccys
 
You would do well to get the Tormek book of words, (user manual)
It's full details of how to set all the tools for sharpening.

john. B
 
John B wrote
You would do well to get the Tormek book of words, (user manual)
It's full details of how to set all the tools for sharpening.
Thanks John.It did come with the manual and i have the TNT DVD.
But until i get the proper jig the SVD-185 they aren't much kop :D

Cornucopia wrote
which model did you get paul?
It's the 1200 model George,with 8" wheel.
 
You'll be champing at the bit to get that new lathe in your workshop now. Just you get all the wood prepared for when it arrives. :wink:
There'll be no holding you.
 
TEP wrote
You'll be champing at the bit to get that new lathe in your workshop now. Just you get all the wood prepared for when it arrives.
There'll be no holding you.
Your not wrong there Tam,i just can't wait.
I've already sorted all the timber out that i have in preparation,so yes i'm raring to go :shock:
 
well done paul, i got the the big tormek and think its the dogs wotsits.
i also got most of my jigs from ebay usa the sv 185 jig cost me about £16 incl shipping. :lol: so try there. hope this helps
 
Jenx wrote
How far away is the lathe now ?
Well Alun i have been told the end of this month,but i won't be holding me breath :(
Greggy wrote
i also got most of my jigs from ebay usa the sv 185 jig cost me about £16 incl shipping. so try there. hope this helps
Thanks for the tip Greggy,i will keep a look out :D
 
Same jig, different holders I think. The Tormek needs a 90deg. fitting to hold the jig head. The Sorby you just slide it into the big round holder.
 
CambournePete wrote
Pete,
This is the Sorby jig which as the big lump of bar on which is a looser fit on the Tormek support bar,
and
This is the Tormek jig.
The Sorby one also makes the gouge sit up too high.
I did think that the Sorby one might fit,as it does in a way and i did get a good grind with it,but i would have to adjust the jig too much for each gouge.
 
Paul, just make you own 90deg. piece from a block of beech or similar.

Don't forget that the turning tool jigs for the sorby are centred around the larger diameter wheel and pivot point settings will differ slightly for the smaller stone for any given aiming profile.
 
CHJ wrote
Paul, just make you own 90deg. piece from a block of beech or similar.
I was thinking to Chas,but would there be much difference in the size to what i have now :?:
Unless of course you know a better way :D
 
app01.jpg


Just make the guide bar bore (the one with black bushes on the left above) about 50mm long and make the hole a good fit to reduce any slop.
 
Looking at the two jigs Chas the new one has a wider shaft ,wher as the one i have as a smaller dia shaft,where the home made holder needs to be fixed.So getting a decent enough fixing onto the shaft might be difficult :roll:
 
Not with you Paul, all you need is a block of wood with two correct sized holes drilled at right angles, I think the pic above is near full size if you put your holder against a print. you should be able to get hole centre distances near enough from it.

Also you mentioned in a post above
but i would have to adjust the jig too much for each gouge.

If you have any gouges that vary significantly from the TWO forms that Tormek recommend with their standard setup then you will have to adjust the distance from the stone and the jig angle to suit.

This is covered on Page 14 of the manual where the making of individual spacing blocks and angle setting notes are referred to.

The Tormek system is no different to any other, if you are happy with just one or two settings then these are available with easy supplied setting jigs, if you want to vary your angles then you will need to make up your own set of setting blocks and angle guides.
As your stone is already at the lower diameter of the Sorby "Touch and Turn" diameter range then the Sorby jig will give you slightly differing profiles to those shown in the manual anyway.
 
Sounds far too technical for lil' ol' me. Glad I'm happy wiv' me white stone grinder. \:D/ All I want to do is sharpen my chisels not delve into the realms of mathematics. What with differing angles and stuff like that, it gives me a head ache. :lol: :lol:
 
Thanks Chas.I will give it a go and let you know how i get on :shock:

The gouges i have ground so far using the Sorby jig,which is made by Tormek,were only ground by eyeing up the angle,as i say just to try it out.
But i do want to use the Tormek as it should be used,by measuring the distance using the jig,which was one of the reasons i decided to go for it.
 
TEP":3j5ijz68 said:
Sounds far too technical for lil' ol' me. Glad I'm happy wiv' me white stone grinder. \:D/ All I want to do is sharpen my chisels not delve into the realms of mathematics. What with differing angles and stuff like that, it gives me a head ache. :lol: :lol:

Much the same here Tam, I sorted what angles I preferred to work with and set up a few spacers and check blocks to suit my jig so that they are repeatable and don't worry about what they actually are.

It just frustrates me to see the commercial Jigs being marketed as being the be-all and end-all of sharpening problems when they all have a learning curve to assimilate and a need to understand the dynamics of the profile forming if you want to move away from their basic settings.

Even then the final shape obtained on a round gouge is down to the operator and the dwell time spent on differing areas of the tool.
Rarely do you see mentioned in all the blurb that some profiles are just not obtainable unless you have the exact same gouge flute profile.
 
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