I have a Tormek 2000, when using it yesterday the grind wheel stopped rotating when attempting to grade the stone. Looking at the drive wheel the rubber tyre is starting to deteriorate so that's the most likely problem. Have any Tormek users come across this issue before? It would be handy to know all the possible problems before shelling out on a new drive wheel.
Tormek 2000
- Thread starter Gary
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xy mosian
Established Member
Hi Gary, I am intrested in replies to this question and thought someone might come along.
However a couple of things spring to mind, for a possible test and a cheapish get out.
If possible wrap the drive shaft with an elastic band to see if this gets around the problem, there should be more 'grip'.
It may be possible to improve the edge of the rubber wheel by sticking a strip of cycle inner tube around it. Watch out for rotation at the scarfed joint. Contact adhesive should hold well, at least in the short term.
I made a stropping device with the leather tyred wheel running directly on the motor shaft. I was expecting quite a bit of slippage, this has only happened once wnd that was with a very heavy load. Me trying to be too heavy handed.
HTH xy/
p.s. Sorry I don't have the Tormek, all the above is guesswork.
However a couple of things spring to mind, for a possible test and a cheapish get out.
If possible wrap the drive shaft with an elastic band to see if this gets around the problem, there should be more 'grip'.
It may be possible to improve the edge of the rubber wheel by sticking a strip of cycle inner tube around it. Watch out for rotation at the scarfed joint. Contact adhesive should hold well, at least in the short term.
I made a stropping device with the leather tyred wheel running directly on the motor shaft. I was expecting quite a bit of slippage, this has only happened once wnd that was with a very heavy load. Me trying to be too heavy handed.
HTH xy/
p.s. Sorry I don't have the Tormek, all the above is guesswork.
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
Just check that the drive wheel hasn't split which has the effect of reducing the pressure being applied by the motor spindle against it. Take the honing wheel off and closely examine the drive wheel for hairline cracks in the black plastic. Also while you're there, confirm that the little split pin is still located in the centre of the drive wheel, keeping it locked in place.
It does sound like the rubber is perishing and if that's the case then its definitely worth trying any of the remedies above. The usual advice for a drive wheel slipping is to rough it with 180 grit which will increase it's "stickiness" against the motor spindle. But if yours is falling apart then that may only accelerate the problem. If its in that state then wrapping it with another material is one approach as suggested above, then abrade that.
However, a replacement wheel is readily available part and they're now made of zinc rather than plastic so areless likely to split. It's over tightening the honing wheel nut that causes the splits incidentally.
Best of luck
It does sound like the rubber is perishing and if that's the case then its definitely worth trying any of the remedies above. The usual advice for a drive wheel slipping is to rough it with 180 grit which will increase it's "stickiness" against the motor spindle. But if yours is falling apart then that may only accelerate the problem. If its in that state then wrapping it with another material is one approach as suggested above, then abrade that.
However, a replacement wheel is readily available part and they're now made of zinc rather than plastic so areless likely to split. It's over tightening the honing wheel nut that causes the splits incidentally.
Best of luck
Wildman
Established Member
instead of buying a new wheel why not just recover it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121398370334? ... EBIDX%3AIT
I have used this to recover bandsaw wheels with success.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121398370334? ... EBIDX%3AIT
I have used this to recover bandsaw wheels with success.
