Tools required for laminate work

[joiner_sim]

Hi all,

I am wondering what tools I require in my tool box for laminating MDF and does anybody have advice or tips on doing the task?

A bit of a short post I know, but all will be revealed in a few weeks time.
Thanks in advance,
Simon :wink:

 

[SNight]

Good items to have are a block plane, and a selection of hand files. Power tool wise, a laminate trimmer will save loads of time trimming the edges of the laminate up after you have stuck it to the MDF. If you are using contact adhesive to stick it to the MDF, then it is a good idea to have some skids to place on the MDF to rest your laminate on before you start to stick, so you can eye up its position. Because once it touches theres no getting it off! Then remove one skid at a time working your way along, so as not to get creases or air locks. Hope this helps.

 

[jasonB]

Glue spreader and something to hold the laminations together while the glue sets.

Are you talking curved work or just sticking a couple of boards together?
Or sticking laminate to MDF?

Jason

 

[joiner_sim]

Just sticking the laminate to the MDF.

What sort of hand files am I after, as I am really only looking to buy one if thats possible.

Is the Stanley 110 Block Plane any good? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/st-112116-plan-block/path/planes or do I need to spend more on something like the Stanley 9.5" Block Plane http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/plane-512020/path/planes

The tools I am going to buy need to be not too expensive, however I need the tools to last me as I will be laminating quite alot.

 

[SNight]

I just used to use a standard flat one about 20mm wide as long as it is quite fine, you can use this to bevel off the edges or get into tight interior corners. As far as block planes go, it doesn't need to be anything special I used to use an old stanley as laminates can be very tough on edge tools. You will prob be using the block plane to trim the laminate flush with the sheet material.

If you are going to be lamintating quite a lot I would really try to get a laminate trimmer, as it will save you bags of time and give you a really good finsh on the edge, but again if this is out of budget, the block plane and file will do the same job.

Another tip is to give yourself plenty of overlap on your laminate, say at least 10mm each side, its a horribble feeling when you get to one end and the corner is just short!

 

[joiner_sim]

Okay then. I will be able to use a laminate trimmer, but I do also want the hand tools to do it too. What is the method when using the trimmer?

I'm guessing once the laminate has been stuck to the mdf, I would then file off the bulk of it. What happens when the MDF has been edge banded? Do i get a block plane out and level it up or file it all the way? Will the file work safely backwards and forwards or is it best to only go one way... towards the surface?

 

[SNight]

The method is to leave the laminate at least 10mm over on the faces, the trimmer cutter will be bearing guided, so its just a case of going in on the edge untill it comes into contact with the bearing then work your way around. Good tip is to put masking tape on the base of the router to stop scratching.

Once it is stuck to the MDF its easier to trim with the cutter rather than the file, if you dont want to use the trimmer, then trim the bulk off with the block plane and finish the last mm or so with the file, if the edge is to be banded be carefull not to bevel the edge over. This should be done in one go when the edge is banded. Band the edge a few mm over each side, use you trimmer or block plane to get down to a mm or so from the faces then finsh with the file and light sandpaper on a block being carefull not to scratch the surfaces. You want to aim for a 2mm straight bevel line around all the edges.

Always work your file into the work edge, never away, otherwise you will prob crack or split the laminate.

 

[joiner_sim]

Thanks for that bit of information, it is going to help me out ALOT!

:roll: Just one last thought, if the laminate is left over by 10mm and I decide to use the trimmer straight into it, would that not crack or split the laminate?

Also, do i still need to file a bevel on after the trimmer has done it's job?

 

[SNight]

Shouldn't do. Ive done hundreds of laminated fire doors that were over by about 50mm each side and it worked ok. Just go in slow and square and as long as the cutter is sharp you should be fine.

There are a couple of different cutters to use. Use a straight cutter to trim the face laminates, and then there is a cutter that incorporates a bevel that you can use to trim the edges, which should leave you with a finished beveled edge.

 

[joiner_sim]

Okay then thankyou for the advice.

I've already got a straight cutter, but is the bevel cutter you refer to one like this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axcaliber-Bevel-Trim-Cutter-802614.htm

 

[SNight]

These are the ones im on about and have used
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-CMT- ... -20989.htm

Although the one you mention may work fine. Best to try out first.

 

[joiner_sim]

The link you have provided to the cutters, is definatley the best choice to be trimming laminates with. Thanks for all the advice. :wink:

As said at the begining all will be revealed in a few weeks time, well hopefully! :roll:

 

[toolsntat]

http://www.galvins.com.au/hardware/cata ... AYGLUE.pdf

This glue will save you loads of time and effort 8) 8)

Starstuck was the trade name for the one I used to use :wink:

Also make some dressing down flats, about 18" of flat ally with various grades of scratch glued to the face :idea: :idea:

Oh yes and get a good hot air gun for helping remove the bits that go pearshaped :shock: :shock:

Goscut laminate cutter is a great hand tool for snipping to rough size etc

Andy

 

[JonnyD]

I never bother with contact adhesives and use a D3 PVA or titebond to glue it down with. It depends on how big a panel you are laminating but a simple caul could be made or it is extremley easy if you have access to a vacuum bag or a platten press for doing big panels.

cheers

Jon

 

[jasonB]

If you are using the cutters linked to above then watch out as you say your boards have been edge banded, the guide pin can mark the edge band.

You would be better off with a laminate trimmer which has a separate bearing or failing that a bearing guided bit.

You may also want a J roler to press the laminate down

Jason

 

[Keenedge]

These are a good sourcehttp://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Welcome-to-FastCap-d1.htm.
Isaac Lord do some of there stuff, quad trimmer is great and the fast cap, fast edge and speedroller will help

 

[pren]

Hey,

sorry to jump in but I've got some edge banding to do for the first time in a bit as well.

Am I right in saying that when using a guided trimmer in a router, the router will have to be balanced on the laminated face? Ie: if I'm edging some 18mm MDF, I've got to balance it on the 18mm face?

If so, is the router quite stable? I guess using a fence would help keep it from falling over.

 

[lemonjeff]

Bryn,
Just use a chisel or plane iron for edge banding. Or if you doing a lot an edge banding trimmer from Axminster.

Jeff

 

[joiner_sim]

Thanks for all the additional advice. The trimming cutter I already have is bearing guided, but wasn't sure if it would be okay for laminate trimming, as I've only used it for trimming lippings. I will be going out and getting the block plane and file soon though as hand tools are always good as a backup.

 

[joiner_sim]

Just looking for a file now....
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-6-Piece-File-Set-32308.htm

I am unsure.... about whats a "needle" file set 100145
or whats a "2nd cut" file set 100146

Which one is it that I need? Im worried that needle means the flat file isn't as wide. I know the needle set is finer, than the 2nd cut set, but are the flat files wide enough?