To wood Lathe

[user 36867]

I have a Boxford metal lathe and was thinking of doing some wood turning on it. But looking for ideas on how to adapt it, IE tool post, fixing to three or four jaw chucks, speeds, any help would be appreciated

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Buy a wood lathe. Cheaper and better.

 

[Sachakins]

Buy a wood lathe. Cheaper and better.

Good advice from Phil, plus, it won't clog up the workings on your metal lathe with sawdust.

 

[user 36867]

Buy a wood lathe. Cheaper and better.

No room, as I have metal machines and wood machines

 

[user 36867]

No room, as I have metal machines and wood machines

Also at 90 I want to be selling not buying

 

[Fergie 307]

Nice old machine, just the sort of thing I would recommend to anyone instead of a Myford.
You can use it, quite simple to rig up a tool rest. But you will get wood dust in all the working parts, very difficult to clean up and the carriage will constantly get in your way. Definitely much better to get a wood lathe.

 

[Vulcan]

I’ve known a few people turn wood on a metal lathe without any issues. I’ve done it quite a few times on mine.
You just need to find a way of setting up a tool rest on the carriage.
Chucks could be a bit of a problem though, you’ll likely need some kind of adapter.

 

[niall Y]

I presume you mean for freehand work, otherwise you can proceed as you do with metal. Just use the appropriate cutters in the tool post. Those for aluminium are good as well as the special profiles you can grind yourself.

For freehand work I have a section of 12mm square bar that I fix in the tool post
I have to admit that I do have a wood lathe which I use most of the time. though if I'm after a high degree of accuracy, I default to the metal lathe.

 

[ChaiLatte]

But you will get wood dust in all the working parts, very difficult to clean up and the carriage will constantly get in your way.

There is a lot of negativity here. Why could we not come up with some helpful suggestions on how he might use his metal lathe for turning wood? The Boxford, being a gear head lathe, has a lot of advantages over, say, an open headstock Myford in terms of dust resistance.

Yes, the dust is a problem. But you remove the tailstock and wind the carriage all the way to the tailstock end of the bed. Reinstall the tailstock in front of the carriage and cover the apron and saddle with a cloth. Removing the compound slide might make the covering easier. Put a similar cloth over the leadscrew. Sellotape a plastic sheet over the gearbox. Wipe the ways down before use. Vacuum up all dust after use. Oil lightly after use. Rob the filter out of Henry and use an elastic band to secure it over the bell end of the motor.

Myford made a woodturning rest that fitted to the beds of their lathes. A similar thing could be made to fit the Boxford bed.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/woodturning-rest-for-myford-ml7-lathe/
https://www.haythornthwaite.com/hand rest.html

There are innumerable centres available on a 2 Morse taper, which would fit the Boxford spindle.

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/2MT-Drive-Centres.html

 

[Phill05]

Getting wood dust all over the lathe is no different to getting Brass or Cast iron dust all over it, you need to vacuum and wipe down after use not leave it to soak up any oil.

Re: toolrest, you can hold a round or square bar in the toolpost to use as a toolrest for bowl work, I found one on the bay that fit my lathe.
Re: chucks, no problem using 3 or 4 jaw chucks again depends what you are wanting to turn, you also have the advantage to turn between chucks and centres under power.

So don't dismiss using the metal lathe as it is get stuck in and do your work then give all a good clean, sit back admire the work and finish off with a good cup of tea.

 

[Inspector]

To use a wood chuck in your lathe put bar stock in your chuck and tread it to match to wood chuck. Mark the bar so when you return it to the lathe there will be minimal if any runout. Or if the metal chuck jaws open enough grab the wood chuck by them.

If removal of the compound rest isn't too difficult a tool rest could be made to sit on top of the carriage. Otherwise a steel bar in the tool holder will get you by.

Biggest hindrance aside from the dust is metal lathes generally don't turn as fast as a wood lathe so you might have to adjust your turning technique a little.

Props to you for being 90 and still active in your shop.

Pete

 

[Sachakins]

There is a lot of negativity here. Why could we not come up with some helpful suggestions on how he might use his metal lathe for turning wood? The Boxford, being a gear head lathe, has a lot of advantages over, say, an open headstock Myford in terms of dust resistance.

Yes, the dust is a problem. But you remove the tailstock and wind the carriage all the way to the tailstock end of the bed. Reinstall the tailstock in front of the carriage and cover the apron and saddle with a cloth. Removing the compound slide might make the covering easier. Put a similar cloth over the leadscrew. Sellotape a plastic sheet over the gearbox. Wipe the ways down before use. Vacuum up all dust after use. Oil lightly after use. Rob the filter out of Henry and use an elastic band to secure it over the bell end of the motor.

Myford made a woodturning rest that fitted to the beds of their lathes. A similar thing could be made to fit the Boxford bed.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/woodturning-rest-for-myford-ml7-lathe/
https://www.haythornthwaite.com/hand rest.html

There are innumerable centres available on a 2 Morse taper, which would fit the Boxford spindle.

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/2MT-Drive-Centres.html

Don't think it's negativity, it's just pointing out some pitfalls and possible problems along the way.
Yes everything is "Doable" but whether you should is another matter.

Now we know the OP doesn't have the space and the want to buy another lathe, then yes go ahead, cover the Bedways etc and give it a try, nothing lost in trying it.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I have just seen a Boxford factory-supplied woodturning rest on eBay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326089288763

It mounts in place of the compound slide. Maybe it will provide some ideas.

I have always been slightly concerned with the 'bar in the toolpost' idea as it would appear to lack stiffness. Maybe if you maximise the bar diameter and limit the length, moving the carriage along as necessary so the rest is always under the part you are turning it would be OK.

 

[user 36867]

I presume you mean for freehand work, otherwise you can proceed as you do with metal. Just use the appropriate cutters in the tool post. Those for aluminium are good as well as the special profiles you can grind yourself.

For freehand work I have a section of 12mm square bar that I fix in the tool post
I have to admit that I do have a wood lathe which I use most of the time. though if I'm after a high degree of accuracy, I default to the metal lathe.

Could you send me a photo or discribe how you fix it to the toolpost please

 

[user 36867]

Good advice from Phil, plus, it won't clog up the workings on your metal lathe with sawdust.

I have a strong

Compressor to blow the dust away​

 

[user 36867]

I have just seen a Boxford factory-supplied woodturning rest on eBay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326089288763

It mounts in place of the compound slide. Maybe it will provide some ideas.

I have always been slightly concerned with the 'bar in the toolpost' idea as it would appear to lack stiffness. Maybe if you maximise the bar diameter and limit the length, moving the carriage along as necessary so the rest is always under the part you are turning it would be OK.

Thank you for pointing me to ebay I should be able to make one as mI have a milling machine

 

[user 36867]

There is a lot of negativity here. Why could we not come up with some helpful suggestions on how he might use his metal lathe for turning wood? The Boxford, being a gear head lathe, has a lot of advantages over, say, an open headstock Myford in terms of dust resistance.

Yes, the dust is a problem. But you remove the tailstock and wind the carriage all the way to the tailstock end of the bed. Reinstall the tailstock in front of the carriage and cover the apron and saddle with a cloth. Removing the compound slide might make the covering easier. Put a similar cloth over the leadscrew. Sellotape a plastic sheet over the gearbox. Wipe the ways down before use. Vacuum up all dust after use. Oil lightly after use. Rob the filter out of Henry and use an elastic band to secure it over the bell end of the motor.

Myford made a woodturning rest that fitted to the beds of their lathes. A similar thing could be made to fit the Boxford bed.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/woodturning-rest-for-myford-ml7-lathe/
https://www.haythornthwaite.com/hand rest.html

There are innumerable centres available on a 2 Morse taper, which would fit the Boxford spindle.

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/2MT-Drive-Centres.html

Thank you for your attached files very usefull as I can make some thing now you have given me the photos thank you

 

[niall Y]

Could you send me a photo or discribe how you fix it to the toolpost please

Hi there. yes it is simply fitted into the tool post and bolted in position as you would say a boring bar, but protrudes enough to form a rest for a hand held wood turning tool. You can obviously adjust its position with the cross slide and carriage , before locking them firmly in place.

 

[Fergie 307]

I have a strong

Compressor to blow the dust away​

Or blow it further into everything.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Could you send me a photo or describe how you fix it to the toolpost please

Have a quick look on YouTube at the latest (of this date) Engels Coach Shop video. He shows the idea on a slightly larger scale to your Boxford.

The advice about avoiding the compressor is sound. Suction takes the material into a container from which it can easily be disposed. Blowing just moves it around, meaning you still have to clean it up at some later date.