Titebond Veneer Glue
- Thread starter Geoff_S
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custard
Established Member
Yes, I use it all the time for vac bag veneering, the advantage is that it's cured in just 20 or 30 minutes, so I can turn off the noisy compressor or move onto the next workpiece.
I pour some out into a wallpaper rolling tray and then roller it on to the substrate, very thinly but two coats, rolling in two different directions that are 90 degrees apart. I put the wallpaper rolling tray into a plastic carrier bag whenever it's not being used, if you do that you can keep going for most of the day without it drying out.
In a pinch I've used regular PVA thinned with 10% water, but the Titbond stuff seems to go on more smoothly so that's what I prefer.
I pour some out into a wallpaper rolling tray and then roller it on to the substrate, very thinly but two coats, rolling in two different directions that are 90 degrees apart. I put the wallpaper rolling tray into a plastic carrier bag whenever it's not being used, if you do that you can keep going for most of the day without it drying out.
In a pinch I've used regular PVA thinned with 10% water, but the Titbond stuff seems to go on more smoothly so that's what I prefer.
Thanks Custard, if it's good enough for you 
You answered a couple of questions on this for me last November, unfortunately I was a bit optimistic as to when I would start on it, but here we go!
I've just set up the vac press I bought and am now just waiting for some veneer softener to turn up. I know I could have made some but as this is my first attempt, I thought I would go with proprietary stuff. I got something called Super Soft 2, seems to get good reviews.
You answered a couple of questions on this for me last November, unfortunately I was a bit optimistic as to when I would start on it, but here we go!
I've just set up the vac press I bought and am now just waiting for some veneer softener to turn up. I know I could have made some but as this is my first attempt, I thought I would go with proprietary stuff. I got something called Super Soft 2, seems to get good reviews.
custard
Established Member
Geoff, you only really need softener for heavily crinkled veneers, which in most cases means burrs or highly figured exotics.
For your first attempts at vac bag veneering use a fairly pedestrian veneer that will behave itself. Once you apply glue the clock starts ticking, and there's enough to think about without the added pressure of an unruly veneer.
Veneering opens the door to a huge range of projects so, best of luck and I hope it goes really well!
For your first attempts at vac bag veneering use a fairly pedestrian veneer that will behave itself. Once you apply glue the clock starts ticking, and there's enough to think about without the added pressure of an unruly veneer.
Veneering opens the door to a huge range of projects so, best of luck and I hope it goes really well!
So, I've started the flattening of the veneers with some veneer softener. I have had a modicum of success. (hammer)
But, just how flat do have to get them? If there are shallow ripples left, will they glue down when I press it? Or shall I soak it again and continue pressing until completely flat?
But, just how flat do have to get them? If there are shallow ripples left, will they glue down when I press it? Or shall I soak it again and continue pressing until completely flat?
custard
Established Member
Lay the veneer out flat, if the tops of the bumps are within about 1/4"of the bottom of the valleys then you're good. If you've never veneered before you might want to flatten a second time to get well within this limit.
Incidentally, with vac work you don't have to lay both sides at the same time. You can make life easier by having a waxed platten in the bag, on top of that have the oversize veneer face down, on top of that have the glued ground (glue side down). Wrap the glue roller in cling film and put the glue roller tray in a plastic bag, power up the vac for thirty minutes, switch off and remove the workpiece, trim off the overhang, then immediately repeat for the other side. It gives you less to do while the glue is going off, it means you don't have to worry about a caul on top, you're only trimming off the overhangs on one face at a time, and it means you don't have to be so precise trimming the top veneer closely enough so it won't split off. Just a thought.
Incidentally, with vac work you don't have to lay both sides at the same time. You can make life easier by having a waxed platten in the bag, on top of that have the oversize veneer face down, on top of that have the glued ground (glue side down). Wrap the glue roller in cling film and put the glue roller tray in a plastic bag, power up the vac for thirty minutes, switch off and remove the workpiece, trim off the overhang, then immediately repeat for the other side. It gives you less to do while the glue is going off, it means you don't have to worry about a caul on top, you're only trimming off the overhangs on one face at a time, and it means you don't have to be so precise trimming the top veneer closely enough so it won't split off. Just a thought.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
how are you flattening them? are you using paper between sheets and replacing it after a short while? I use melamine faced plattens and slightly curved cauls to apply even pressure. 1st caul exactly in the middle and work outwards putting one on each side as I go. Don't be afraid that you will over tighten, believe me you don't have the strength to do that. After you first put them in leave for an hour and then change the paper and retighten. check every 12 hours or so and change the paper again if it is fairly wet. Once you have fairly dry paper retighten and leave for a couple of days and you should be good and it will be flat enough to use. I hang up the paper to dry on a line like washing so it can be re-used. hth
I soaked each sheet, then as you suggest placed a sheet of blank newspaper between each sheet. Then weighted down with 40kg of weight. I'll give it a couple of hours, then replace the sheets of paper. I guess I'll then leave it overnight. You suggest a couple of days? I can do that as well. I am also experimenting trying some out in the vac bag, we'll see how that goes.
I am also experimenting trying some out in the vac bag, we'll see how that goes.
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Droogs":31x1mz8u said:
Thanks Droogs. I had asked that self same question in my November post and was advised the same. What I got was plain unprinted newspaper offcuts/end of roll from eBay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-30kg-Rea ... 33d4e497f4
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
+1 to Custard above. It is surpriseing how much force the veneer can impart on an unbalanced board and how good hide glue is at stopping the veneer coming away as it does so. I've seen 1" boards like a banana when left too long before balancing.
you must be purdy chuffed
you must be purdy chuffed
