Tips and Wrinkles

[jimi43]

With the ever-growing membership, many of whom are relative newcomers to woodworking...I thought it might be fun to start a thread which could be added to in which we all post a simple tip or wrinkle which we have come across and find useful in our woodworking.

This way...newbies and maybe not so newbies will pick up great helpful ideas...all in one place.

I will start with a favourite one of mine...

When thicknessing a piece of stock.....bevel the edges to the line you wish to thickness to and then commence planing the top. This keeps you flat and in line and allows you to determine when the correct thickness is reached right across the stock...when the bevel disappears.

Next person add their favourite and so on....

Cheers

Jim

 

[bosshogg]

I think this is a great idea Jim, here's mine...when putting in screws, particularly large ones, have a bit of soap handy...rub the screws over the soap, you'll be amazed how easily they go in. the soap bar is also handy for rubbing on the soles of planes (wooden or metal) to make them glide over wood...bosshogg

You can't solve a problem using the same thinking that created it...A.E.

(hammer)

 

[DOOGYREV]

Measure Twice, Cut Once.

Thought I would start at the begining, with the first tip I ever learnt.

 

[Bremner]

Here's mine....

When you want an inside measurement, say the bottom of a draw a tape measure can be inaccurate because you have to bend the tape into the angle. Use a steel rule measure from one side and Mark a nice round number I.e. 200mm, now measure from the other side to your Mark and add them together, and there you have an accurate inside measurement.

 

[AndyT]

Scribble on the base of your plane with a candle end. It makes a huge difference; everything slides nicely and you have better control. It doesn't mar the finish either.

 

[Benchwayze]

My tip is simple.

Use a rule as little as possible. (Probably just to make up your Rod/story-pole/story-stick, whatever you like to call it.)

Any measurements (Say of a drawer front) wherever possible, I take from comparison with the job itself.

I always found it easier that way.

John

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Ordinary household candle (white one) is handy for getting that perfect sliding action on drawers with wooden runners. Or any other unseen wood to wood contact.

And put as many 'french cleat' batons on your workshop walls to aid storage.

-I know that's 2, but they weren't very good ones, so I'm counting it as 2 halves

Cheers _Dan.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

My tip is simple.

Use a rule as little as possible. (Probably just to make up your Rod/story-pole/story-stick, whatever you like to call it.)

Any measurements (Say of a drawer front) wherever possible, I take from comparison with the job itself.

I always found it easier that way.

John

- am I right in thinking this is called relative dimensioning? I try and do this as much as possible. _Dan.

 

[Anonymous]

my tip

when using a plane to smooth the stock, always use your thumb to press the shavings into the mouth of the plane to stop tear out.

 

[Benchwayze]

My tip is simple.

Use a rule as little as possible. (Probably just to make up your Rod/story-pole/story-stick, whatever you like to call it.)

Any measurements (Say of a drawer front) wherever possible, I take from comparison with the job itself.

I always found it easier that way.

John

- am I right in thinking this is called relative dimensioning? I try and do this as much as possible. _Dan.

yes Dan... Good name for it!
Thanks
John

 

[Dibs-h]

Measure Twice, Cut Once.

Unless you forgot what it was in which case measure a few more times in my case. :mrgreen:

 

[flounder]

When I was an apprentice using lathes etc, the one piece of advice my mentor gave me that has always stuck with me is 'Never put your finger where you wouldn't put your ****'! I still have all ten fingers thanks to that as it always pops up in my head whenever I am tempted to do something silly!

 

[gasman]

I love that one Flounder!
How about these 2:
1. If you make a mistake / are having a bad day / have an apparently insoluble problem - then leave the shed for a while go and do something else. Most of the problem solving I come up with happens out of the workshop
2. Keep superglue to hand - it is the best way to treat minor cuts
Mark

 

[DOOGYREV]

To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.

To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.

 

[Lee J]

1. Never leave the chuck key in the lathe after tighten up the chuck, I have a dent in a filing cabinet, thats across the room, to prove this is a bad thing to do.

 

[woodbloke]

For me there's only one thing to remember...producing quality work is as much about thinking your way through as the application of the tools. It's just that I wish I could think a bit more :mrgreen: (hammer) - Rob

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.

-this applies to old rusty nails also, give them a knock with the hammer and then claw them out. 10x easier.

 

[Kalimna]

Not sure if this might be a little basic, but always ensure that you have good lighting upon the workbench.... And if you're working with powertools/machinery, make sure there is someone else who knows you're there, just in case...

Adam S

 

[Benchwayze]

To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.

To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.

yes Doogy,

I call them matchstalks! :lol: :lol: :lol:

John :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.

To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.

just want to elaborate on this one - match sticks are perfect