Threaded thingy whatsit

[quixoticgeek]

I am trying to get hold of something for which I only know the German name of - verbindungsmuffen, google search says they look like this:

http://www.potsdamer-schraubenhandel.co ... ts_id=3119

But I can't for the life of me work out what the English is for them. What is their name?

Thanks

J

 

[marcros]

anything like this suitable? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+ ... 920/p86819

or stainless

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+ ... 030/p57562

one of those products that probably doesnt have a universally accepted name, but if you search for threaded bar connector, threaded rod connector you may come up with some.

 

[Chrispy]

Hafele call them sleeves, internal thread they come in various lengths

 

[Benchwayze]

They can also be called threaded inserts. Used to repair threaded holes that have been stripped; e.g. in engine blocks.
I think!

 

[powertools]

Connecting nut is correct a threaded insert is thin and often has an internal and external thread.

 

[quixoticgeek]

The more I think about it I am wondering if this is actually the right solution. I have a leg for a table, and I wanted to put a thread in it, and then screw in a bolt that has a big rubber handle thingy on the end, to use as an adjustable foot.

A threaded insert nut would be an alternative, but I am concerned about how much the course thread would split the end grain of the wood.

Can anyone suggest a good course of action ?

Thanks

J

 

[jimi43]

I have a box of those things (the ones on the German site)

They are smooth cylinders which I have in two sizes...one end of the cylinder has a threaded hole and the other end is split and tapered slightly out so you can punch them in a plain hole and they don't come out again.

If you want a few of these PM me your address and I will send you some.

I can measure them or take a picture if this sounds like the thing you are looking for.

Jim

 

[twothumbs]

How about these. http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productli ... Tnuts.html

As used in similar ideas. feet. rollers etc.

Best wishes.

 

[Benchwayze]

I'd rig up something from a suitable diameter bolt or threaded rod and a nut, epoxied in. The nut in one component, and the bolt in the other. You'd need a clearance hole beyond the nut, of course.
HTH

 

[DIY Stew]

I have used these in the past,

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+ ... 920/p41724

Or,

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+ ... 920/p30949

Or,

http://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nut-ty ... f-50/59937

Stew

 

[AES]

It's not a threaded insert but a threaded sleeve (in English). Loads of them here (Switzerland is primarily German-speaking).

Any problems getting them in UK, tell me what thread you want (if it's Metric) and what material & finish (presumably plated steel) and I can easily send you somne by post.

PM me if needed.

Krgds
AES

 

[Togalosh]

..are you looking to fit an adjustable foot to level your table? .. if so something like this?

http://oxfordhardware.co.uk/khxc/ccp0-p ... FM8TG.html

in a captured bolt or sleeve.... I've thought to use this but replace the plastic foot with matching wood or some such camoflage.

 

[Lons]

..are you looking to fit an adjustable foot to level your table? .. if so something like this?

http://oxfordhardware.co.uk/khxc/ccp0-p ... FM8TG.html

in a captured bolt or sleeve.... I've thought to use this but replace the plastic foot with matching wood or some such camoflage.

They are intended for 25mm metal speedframe often used on office desks and furniture.
I've just used 4 this week when making a new cupboard unot for my welder and accessories. The plastic insert is about 22mm square and expands when the foot (or castor) is inserted.

Bob

 

[Togalosh]

..are you looking to fit an adjustable foot to level your table? .. if so something like this?

http://oxfordhardware.co.uk/khxc/ccp0-p ... FM8TG.html

in a captured bolt or sleeve.... I've thought to use this but replace the plastic foot with matching wood or some such camoflage.

They are intended for 25mm metal speedframe often used on office desks and furniture.
I've just used 4 this week when making a new cupboard unot for my welder and accessories. The plastic insert is about 22mm square and expands when the foot (or castor) is inserted.

Bob

Yes..but they could be used in a wooden table leg if need be (but not with the plastic insert obviously)...better than a bolt in the sleeve as was the OP's thoughts (I think)

 

[Lons]

Yes..but they could be used in a wooden table leg if need be (but not with the plastic insert obviously)...better than a bolt in the sleeve as was the OP's thoughts (I think)

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work!

Wasn't disagreeing, just co-incidence that i was using some the day before you posted (and we used to sell them as part of the Dexion speedframe range - which is why I have a few).

cheers

Bob

 

[Racers]

Hi, quixoticgeek

I have used these http://www.ukfixings.net/Drop-in-Anchors/ they are what Jim is on about.
I have used then for screw in shelf suports of TV stands exc, they work very well.

I have some M6 and M10 ones if you need them.

Pete

 

[Togalosh]

Yes..but they could be used in a wooden table leg if need be (but not with the plastic insert obviously)...better than a bolt in the sleeve as was the OP's thoughts (I think)

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work!

Wasn't disagreeing, just co-incidence that i was using some the day before you posted (and we used to sell them as part of the Dexion speedframe range - which is why I have a few).

cheers

Bob

My appologies Bod if I sounded tetchy..didn't mean to.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I did a post a while back about a cheap way to do this using a pronged Tee nut and a coach bolt. I've got them in end-grain (turned legs), with 6mm bolts for small furniture and 8mm for larger. There's no tendency to split the grain as the forces are along it. It also works in MDF/chipboard but you have to be careful about drilling just enough depth/width and no more - both materials are denser and stronger nearer the faces of the board than in the middle and have a tendency to split - the more 'meat' you leave, the better.

The idea works with rubber footed ends, and you can quickly make them adjustable from above, if the design allows this. I prefer plain coachbolt heads, as they let the furniture settle itself in place and don't 'stick' to one spot in the floor, thus stressing the furniture joints. Yes they do mark (well, dent) carpets, but to my mind that's better than splitting a cupboard leg or something.



I should have confessed earlier: the design is adapted from the feet fitted to Ikea wardrobes.

If anyone wants me, I'm out by the compost heap hanging my head in shame.

E.