Thread tapping.

[clogs]

I'd be using brass if u can afford it.....it's just as strong but a ***** to hand thread....even with the correct brass taps of old......
best bit about brass is the lack of corrosion....good luck with the steel and wood reactions....
I have a load of outside hardwood furniture that need ur kinda modification as the standard screws (large flat head direct into the wood) are useless after 1 season...
Cant seem to find brass or stainless stocked here.....
will be using ally for the threaded plugs and brass metric bolts lubed with a copperslip and oil mix.....

 

[Lard]

Lard is also a good flux for soldering and brazing brass.

I take offence at that

 

[J-G]

I'd be using brass if u can afford it.....it's just as strong but a puppy to hand thread.

Not quite true - the "it's just as strong" bit - Tensile strength of steels are in the range 58-90k psi whereas Brass is around 45 - 50k - the yield strengths are similar though. The main reason for Brass seeming to be 'easier' (which is what you imply) is that Steel doesn't break up into 'chips' in the way that Brass does so reversing the tap to break the swarf is more necessary when tapping steel.

 

[Lorenzl]

The quality of the tap can make a difference. The electrician has a RS set and the lab manager brought a Drapper set; I have tried both in emergencies and they are rubbish.

 

[Scarlet Lancer]

Easy!!!!
When I am drilling/tapping holes, I set the piece in the drill vice, drill the hole to the required size, then fit the tap in the chuck without disturbing the piece. I do the first bit of the thread just turning the chuck by hand, or using the chuck key for a bit of leverage. This ensures the tap is square to the hole. That's the bit that always gets me. I should get a proper set of taps for the common sizes I use.

Edit: I should have said, my drill vice is bolted to the drill table, so nothing moves when I change from drill to tap

I certainly your methodologies thanks for sharing.