Thinning Tung Oil

[DoubleDutch1962]

I searched but could not find the answer hence my question. I've made wood chopping boards and want to finish them with food-safe tung oil. Many people suggest that you should dilute the first coat. I appreciate that you can buy ready-mixed products but I would like to dilute it myself.

The internet is full of references to D-limonene and Orange Solvent (which should be food-safe) but I have difficulty finding any at a reasonable price in the UK.

Can anyone suggest a good, food-safe, D-limonene or Orange Solvent to buy for this purpose?

Thank you

 

[thetyreman]

I have used pure turpentine and white spirit, the latter being cheaper, I did look into getting some D-limonene as well, couldn't find anywhere that sells it in the uk, once it has dried and cured nobody will notice.

 

[--Tom--]

I’d just use pharma grade mineral oil and then top with a homebrew of beeswax a bit of carnauba and oil of choice.

 

[Oakay]

I have used pure turpentine and white spirit, the latter being cheaper, I did look into getting some D-limonene as well, couldn't find anywhere that sells it in the uk, once it has dried and cured nobody will notice.

White spirit with a slow drying oil intended for food use? I don't think that's a good idea. Why tung oil for a chopping board, surely a proper food grade oil is more appropriate, lots of types would do, (like cheap and cheerful sunflower oil which is already a great consistency) but steer clear of white spirit where food is prepared. Pure turpentine is also toxic if swallowed. I don't know where the big fuss came from to use Tung Oil. Great on joinery, not so appropriate for food related tools.

 

[MikeJhn]

Why put finish on a chopping board, its going to be cut through into the timber first use, just keep it clean and scrubbed.

 

[Oakay]

Why put finish on a chopping board, its going to be cut through into the timber first use, just keep it clean and scrubbed.

I don't think it's a bad idea to fill the pores with oil first. It will give the board a bit of water proofing and protection to reduce the effect of expansion, contraction and warping, (those will happen, but not as suddenly, so the slowing down is beneficial so the moisture content changes are more gradual) and can enhance the colour. The board is likely to look good for longer with the oil on first.

 

[--Tom--]

Why put finish on a chopping board, its going to be cut through into the timber first use, just keep it clean and scrubbed.

Intention isn’t a film finish but something that soaks through the wood - with an end grain board this reduces the absorption of water reducing the swell/shrink movements that can cause splits. A wipe with beeswax also helps with smells like garlic from lingering- reducing the frequency of bicarb/salt and lemon scrubs.
My maple board is coming up to 20 years and still looks brand new. A little less high from the occasional block plane skim but functionally still perfect.

 

[Owd Jockey]

I have always read that certain oils go "rancid" over time (often a year), sunflower oil is one of them. Coincidently, I have just finished re-oiling my two wooden boards after approx 6 years of use. This included sanding back the surfaces of both sides of the board to 'dry-wood' removing the ingrained fats, oils, moisture and 'knife cuts'. I simply re-applied "Chopping Block Oil", which is basically Pharma grade Mineral Oil.

 

[MikeJhn]

Sorry to disagree chaps, but IMO I think putting a finish on a Chopping board is a solution looking for a problem.