Thin Kerf CMT

[knappers]

Anybody got an opinion on these thin kerf blades that are on offer at Axminster?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/cmt-cmt-235mm-tct-thin-kerf-saw-blade-prod826761/

I need a new blade for my Triton saw, and had been thinking about getting separate blades for ripping and crosscutting, but may look at getting one of these. Will it really be good for both? Is the thin kerf a help or a hindrance?

Thanks

Si.

 

[9fingers]

A thin kerf blade has the advantage of wasting less wood in the cut and that is about all. A conventional 3.2mm kerf will be much more rigid and have more meat in the tips for re-grinds.

A thin kerf is useful to have around but only in combination with other blades for your saw.

How about getting the old one reground? Cost depends on the number of tips but a typical 10" combi blade will be less than £10 maybe £8 at yout local saw doctor.

Bob

 

[Digit]

One pitfall with thin kerf blades is that you will normally need to obtain a thin riving knife to match.

Roy.

 

[andy king]

Hi Si,

The thin kerf blades were originally for battery tools as they put less strain on the motor, so more cuts per charge.
I suppose the same thoughts were in the minds of CMT with these blades, a faster cut with less strain on the motor.
The main problem you may encounter with a table or mains circular saw is the raised part within the flange plate that the blade sits over.
With a standard plate around 3.2mm as stated by Bob, you may find the raised part sits beyond the outer face of the blade so that the clamping flange washer won't touch the face of the blade, so the blade won't be clamped.
Might be an idea to check the projection of the raised part with a vernier to see if it is less than the 1.7mm of the CMT or to make sure that the clamping plate has enough difference to allow the thinner blade to clamp up before you commit to buying

hope this helps.

cheers,
Andy

PS. You might find that this could also be the projection of the arbor or spindle, so that when the flange plate is in position and tightened, it won't close down as tight as 1.7mm. It depends on specific saws as to how they have their blade securing method set up.

 

[Max Power]

Cutting solutions is the resident expert Si. Hopefully he will be along soon or you could pm him. He sells a great range of tooling at keen prices and will advise you the best way to go

 

[cutting solutions]

Wow!

Rich guys in here......
£32.00 for a thin kerf saw blade that will probably not last very long

Normal kerf on a 230 blade should be about 2.8 mm with 1.8 mm plate thickness.
that means the plate on the 1.7 (the bit you clamp against the motor) will be about 1.0 mm.
Bendy bendy on anything a bit hard.

Why not try a nice 48 tooth blade with the correct kerf (2.8/1.8) nice big fat teeth at £25.50 inc VAT plus a bit of post?

 

[cutting solutions]

Will it really be good for both? Is the thin kerf a help or a hindrance?

you RIP wit a rip saw blade


and


CROSSCUT with a cross cut blade.

 

[jasonB]

I tried a thin kerf once (not CMT) and found that about every 12-14" the blade would wobble slightly giving a kerf that was /thin/thick/thin and gave a poor finish as the back teeth were obviously touching the sides of teh kerf. I assume this was flexing due to the thin plate.

Jason

 

[Digit]

I find that odd. I use a thin kerf Freud blade for all cross cutting and have never had any problems at all.

Roy.

 

[Max Power]

I would imagine that a blade would incur less stress crosscutting than ripping Roy

 

[Digit]

Very possibly Allan, especially if the operator is in too much of a hurry perhaps.

Roy.