The Sandpaper danger

[Benchwayze]

Hmmm, who is this Linley character you speak of?

Son of Lord Snowdon and Princess Margaret http://www.davidlinleyfurniture.com/about-david-linley

Cheers :wink:

Paul

What ugly, pretentious and expensive stuff. Veneered MDF no less.

I don't think taste or appearence were mentioned originally. I happen to be indifferent to his furniture myself, but I think Rob was talking about the non-use of sandpaper.

I use veneer myself. I certainly wouldn't veneer onto a substrate that's going to move about, so MDF is a good choice. If you take precautions when you cut it, then it's no more dangerous than Iroko or any other irritant material. In my case most veneer I use is resawn myself and is thick enough to plane to a finish. Hence I still don't like sandpaper!

John :wink:

 

[flanajb]

I am intrigued by this post as my favourite piece of kit is my 4" belt sander

I would love to learn how you should finish timber after it has been through the PT. Any links welcomed.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Flanajb:

With a smoothing plane. Or maybe a sharp, finely set block plane.
And with today's available Veritas Clifton and Nielsen finishing planes, how much smoother do you want your timber to be?

IMO sand-glass paper just kills the grain and fills it with grit.

Okay; if you are finishing an open grained timber and want to use a surface filler prior to adding a mirror finish then sanding is good if done properly. However, to my eye and fingertips a good matt-wax is better than a highly polished surface.

HTAY?
:wink:

John

 

[jimi43]

Totally agree John but on a FLAT surface...

You have to use abrasives in certain circumstances involving curves and such...

I use it on turnings...on handles and such...and the 3M MicroMesh stuff does not shed grit nor does it deaden grain...

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

But Jim, I rarely work on 'bent' surfaces.
Wood moves and curls enough on its own without making it take on weird and wonderful curves.

Now and then, I might make a 'Krenovian' leg, or the occasional arched door rail, etc., but slight curves like that can be worked with a compass plane or spokeshave..

So any sanding is reserved for mouldings or the lathe Jim; and I've even use a No 4 plane on the lathe, instead of a skew!

Regards
John

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Can someone tell me what an "Arris" is please? Is it just the point where 2 surfaces meet, i.e. a 45 degree joint between 2 flat surfaces?

Thanks _Dan

 

[jimi43]

Good Heavens John...you use a No.4 on a lathe!! :shock:

Ok...THIS I gotta see!



Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

Good Heavens John...you use a No.4 on a lathe!! :shock:

Ok...THIS I gotta see!



Jim

Not regularly Jim.. but I have done so; for straight spindles of course!
It works the same as a skew-chisel if you think about it, and is held on the skew, to the revolving work.

Monkey: Your answer is yes. It's another name for an edge. (Nothing to do with Aristotle...
:lol:

 

[JoinerySolutions]

Good Heavens John...you use a No.4 on a lathe!! :shock:

Ok...THIS I gotta see!



Jim

Not regularly Jim.. but I have done so; for straight spindles of course!
It works the same as a skew-chisel if you think about it, and is held on the skew, to the revolving work.

Monkey: Your answer is yes. It's another name for an edge. (Nothing to do with Aristotle...
:lol:

One heck of a way to avoid skew dig in! I like it..... lots. Going to try it out next time I have a turning job to do.
Rob.

 

[jimi43]

The minute you said that Rob...a :idea: went off!

I get it now...

I was beginning to doubt your sanity there John!

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

Welcome fellas. My pleasure.

The true turners on the 'round side' might be disdainful, but a sharp blade and a light cut and it works on straight spindles. If the curved sections are big enough it can work there too, but you can't get into some sections obviously. It's mainly used to get a straight spindle, or an even taper, without getting dig-in and 'rings'..


Try it out on soft wood first to get the hang of it. Rest the heel of the plane on the rest, and lower down gently 'til it cuts. Then traverse steadily as with a chisel.

Good Luck
John

 

[TheTiddles]

it really is a good technique, my dad showed me that one

Aidan

 

[jimi43]

If I kill myself with a high velocity Stanley, I will sue...

:wink:

Jim

 

[Paul Chapman]

I first saw this technique used in an article in the February 1973 issue of Woodworker. A bloke called Will Rowson built a lovely gate-leg table which had round, tapered legs. He used a low-angle block plane to plane the legs on the lathe. He took most of the waste off with a gouge, then used the block plane to finish. He mounted two boards on the lathe bed, one each side of the leg so that the plane would stop cutting when the sole reached the boards and each leg would finish exactly the same size.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

I first saw this technique used in an article in the February 1973 issue of Woodworker. A bloke called Will Rowson built a lovely gate-leg table which had round, tapered legs. He used a low-angle block plane to plane the legs on the lathe. He took most of the waste off with a gouge, then used the block plane to finish. He mounted two boards on the lathe bed, one each side of the leg so that the plane would stop cutting when the sole reached the boards and each leg would finish exactly the same size.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Hey yes... I vaguely recall that one.. But I didn't go up into the attic to check my dusty old back numbers. It always makes me sneeze when I do!
Regards Paul...

As for flying Stanleys Jim... I have a WWll battle-bowler somewhere you could borrow!

John