The everlasting condensation problem.

[Myfordman]

Ask the supplier of the profile. They may have flue flashing kit or just one to take you to a flat surface to which you can fit a sealing kit from the flue manufacturer. You won't be the first nor last to want to pass a flue through roofing profile.

 

[artie]

Ask the supplier of the profile.

That was my first thought, but he was no help other than to say he was sure something was available, but he didn't stock anything.

 

[Myfordman]

Ask the supplier of the profile.

That was my first thought, but he was no help other than to say he was sure something was available, but he didn't stock anything.

Try the manufacturers website. The building trade are late adopters of the web when it comes to providing details but are improving.

Or just google "box profile flue flashing"

eg http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burn ... hings.html

 

[artie]

Ask the supplier of the profile.

That was my first thought, but he was no help other than to say he was sure something was available, but he didn't stock anything.

Try the manufacturers website. The building trade are late adopters of the web when it comes to providing details but are improving.

Or just google "box profile flue flashing"

eg http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burn ... hings.html

Thanks, There's one in there that looks the business.

It's funny, I can never find the words to make a good search on Google.

 

[rafezetter]

Just a reminder - the passive dehumidifier option works well, i.e. a window with weep holes and condensation collection channels which will drain condensate to the outside. It may also increase temperature by solar gain.
Velux skylights are worth a look - they are fitted on a gradient and the bottom edge of the glass panel rests on a moulded gasket with weep channels. A Velux will work as a de-humidifier.

This has given me an odd idea.... Condensation occurs because the water in the air wants to condense on surfaces with a temperature differential is that correct?

If the OP (or anyone with sufficiently large space) got a load of 2ndhand double glazed units and hung them or mounted them where the suns rays can warm them, would they effectively become "condensation magnets" thus reducing the relative humidity and chances of condensation forming on machines?

You could have drip trays or something underneath as I'm of the belief that when it's english winter the water is unlikely to evaporate again into the air.

(I used to work for a window company that had a "disposal service" for customers with literally hundreds of panels of otherwise usable glass disposed of - so I know you'll get them for free).

Of course that could be utter B*******, but I just thought I'd throw that out there

 

[Jacob]

Just a reminder - the passive dehumidifier option works well, i.e. a window with weep holes and condensation collection channels which will drain condensate to the outside. It may also increase temperature by solar gain.
Velux skylights are worth a look - they are fitted on a gradient and the bottom edge of the glass panel rests on a moulded gasket with weep channels. A Velux will work as a de-humidifier.

This has given me an odd idea.... Condensation occurs because the water in the air wants to condense on surfaces with a temperature differential is that correct?

If the OP (or anyone with sufficiently large space) got a load of 2ndhand double glazed units and hung them or mounted them where the suns rays can warm them, would they effectively become "condensation magnets" thus reducing the relative humidity and chances of condensation forming on machines?

Yes - if you fit them as windows and not just have them hanging around

You could have drip trays or something underneath as I'm of the belief that when it's english winter the water is unlikely to evaporate again into the air.

Yes - and drain them to the outside. This was common practice in many older buildings where they didn't have the advantage of sash or casement windows due to having fixed lights - churches, chapels, public buildings

..
Of course that could be utter B*******, but I just thought I'd throw that out there

Not b.lox at all you've got the idea!

 

[rafezetter]

Just a reminder - the passive dehumidifier option works well, i.e. a window with weep holes and condensation collection channels which will drain condensate to the outside. It may also increase temperature by solar gain.
Velux skylights are worth a look - they are fitted on a gradient and the bottom edge of the glass panel rests on a moulded gasket with weep channels. A Velux will work as a de-humidifier.

This has given me an odd idea.... Condensation occurs because the water in the air wants to condense on surfaces with a temperature differential is that correct?

If the OP (or anyone with sufficiently large space) got a load of 2ndhand double glazed units and hung them or mounted them where the suns rays can warm them, would they effectively become "condensation magnets" thus reducing the relative humidity and chances of condensation forming on machines?

Yes - if you fit them as windows and not just have them hanging around

You could have drip trays or something underneath as I'm of the belief that when it's english winter the water is unlikely to evaporate again into the air.

Yes - and drain them to the outside. This was common practice in many older buildings where they didn't have the advantage of sash or casement windows due to having fixed lights - churches, chapels, public buildings

..
Of course that could be utter B*******, but I just thought I'd throw that out there

Not b.lox at all you've got the idea!

haha well I was thinking more like the "having them hang around" variety - something akin to how sound baffle boards are hung in music rooms, but then having thought about it, it all relies on them being a different temperature, which would be hard to rig up or arrange.

I was just trying to think of a totally passive way to reduce moisture levels without using large amounts of dessicant beads.

 

[Giff]

If you are looking for a large Axial type fan to move and circulate the air try an agricultural / greenhouse type. I have seen them on Ebay in the past.

 

[artie]

If you are looking for a large Axial type fan to move and circulate the air try an agricultural / greenhouse type. I have seen them on Ebay in the past.

Will see how the New covering with non drip lining works out.

Fan is next on the agenda, if needed.

 

[bugbear]

... but then having thought about it, it all relies on them being a different temperature, which would be hard to rig up or arrange.

Yeah - it's the heat being pumped from indoors to outdoors that drives the condensation process,
as the hot air gives up it's heat to the glass, loses its water carrying capability,
and gives up some water. The glass then gives up the heat to the outside.

Ultra high efficiency Scandinavian-style glazing doesn't get condensation, since the
inside glass face stays warm.

BugBear

 

[artie]

A little behind schedule, the roof work started yesterday.

Quite hard work, we pulled all the nails by hand, carefully stacked the old covering and recovered with the box profile and non drip lining. We got two thirds across yesterday before sealing it up for the night.

There was some frost last night so I was pleased to see a light condensation on the old roof and none visible on the new.

Today we finished it off except for the trim on the east side and the boot around the flue exit. We got a couple of showers of rain but all in all it went well.

I am glad to see it done, without major mishap.

Looking forward to more frost now to see how it goes.

 

[JonnyW]

Hi Artie. Dredging up an old post here! How did you get on with your condensation problem? did the new roof help?

Jonny

 

[BearTricks]

Someone on here recommended some 1kg silica gel bags which came to about £11 for two.

They haven't fixed my entire problem, but they've pretty much saved most of my tools from rust over the winter. They're designed for vans where tools are left in over night, or so I hear, but in my very small shed, they do pretty much the same job for my lathe and bandsaw.

 

[JonnyW]

I read about those sica gels bags for condensation in cars, so I bought a couple of bags. Worked a treat as the pickup windscreen used to run with water in the mornings.

So i did think they'd be good in the tool cabinets.

Jonny

 

[JonnyW]

I read about those sica gels bags for condensation in cars, so I bought a couple of bags. Worked a treat as the pickup windscreen used to run with water in the mornings.

So i did think they'd be good in the tool cabinets.

Jonny

 

[artie]

Hi Artie. Dredging up an old post here! How did you get on with your condensation problem? did the new roof help?

Jonny

I recovered the roof with box profile cladding with non drip backing. Marvelous job wish I had done it years ago. I haven't seen a drip since Feb 2015.

On the down side, the wife is not happy so I am having to go and leave it.

At least I know what to do in the future.

 

[JonnyW]

That's good to know Artie and I'm sorry to hear the wife isn't happy!

I've had a lot of work done to my block garage/workshop this year, which has included external 50mm Cellotex and Cedral cladding over that. I also extended it at the back - accessed using a single door.

I decided to put 50mm of Cellotex insulation boards between the trusses, tape up the joints and leave the roof open for more storage room. What a difference to the temperature, so hopefully it'll save my tools/machinery.

What I did notice was condensation on the underside of the insulation sheets in the small extension the other day, which I must admit gets really warm up in the roof space. Then a little less the next day etc etc. I don't have any eves or soffits, so there's no vents (too many vents can cause a lot of problems here in windy Shetland). I'm hoping it's just moisture still coming off the floor slab - which lay under 6 inch of rain for a month during the winter. I've been told by an engineer that it can take approx 1 month per inch of concrete to completely dry out. You can see the dark areas on the floor that are still drying out. So hopefully it's just moisture during the drying out period.

I've placed a bid on a well know auction site for a passive moisture vent, that I'll stick up in the peak of the gable, so hopefully that'll help.

It's such a job to know exactly what to do, as like most things in life, the jury is split on either a lot of ventilation, heating, sealing up etc etc etc.

Jonny

 

[artie]

I'm hoping it's just moisture still coming off the floor slab - which lay under 6 inch of rain for a month during the winter. I've been told by an engineer that it can take approx 1 month per inch of concrete to completely dry out.

Jonny

I didn't put in the end sealers, so that air could circulate and dry out the walls.

It's been amazing to watch it dry. It gets lighter starting in the top left corner and moves across and down. When I think it's dried out, it starts getting lighter in the top left again and does another cycle. Getting less noticeable now.