I have a couple of tenon saws that I need to take the handles off--to clean up and de-rust the blade and clean the handle. Each handle is held onto the blade with 3 male and female screws The problem is the screw will turn (with great difficulty after applying WD40). See attachment. The 3rd screw will turn but not separate the two halves of the screw so unable to separate the handle from the blade. How would you manage to get the screws apart? If all else fails perhaps drill the screw out? Not shown in the attachment is the second saw that is very rusty--the 3 screws turn but do not come apart. Your knowledge welcome.
Tenon Saw Problem
- Thread starter Mikegtr
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Yep just drill it out.
You might find this thread useful
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...and-re-teething-of-a-99p-saw-completed.98494/
You might find this thread useful
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...and-re-teething-of-a-99p-saw-completed.98494/
Sounds like the threads might be stripped? I'd try to get an old chisel with the chisel back to the wood and wedge it up if that makes sense? then you might get a pliers on it to pull it off. The 2 you have one half off in the pic will need to be tapped out with a punch or nail or something, apologies if I'm stating the obvious there.
What he says. Applying outwards/upwards pressure to the screw as you turn it will help it separate.
You can grind a groove in the end of one of these:
https://www.toolstation.com/prep-euro-filling-knife-set/p98277
and push it under the screw head first. That would protect the wood.
If the gap is too narrow for a chisel, start with a Stanley knife blade.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Some saw bolts aren't separable.
They were sometimes just a press together even though they had screwdriver slots.
Cheers, Andy
They were sometimes just a press together even though they had screwdriver slots.
Cheers, Andy
johnwalls26
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If you can't free it and decide to drill out, Thomas Flinn sell the various types of replacement screws, but expensive with postage costs. I wonder if you could very carefully drill a 1.5mm bore to get penetrating oil into the right spot.
cowtown_eric
Established Member
One technique is to take a wood screw clamp and drill a hole on one side, clamp it on the saw handle so that the screw is visible through the hole, an d the other side is held firmly (may need a small shim or two if it's recessed,
Then proceed gently to attempt to loosen with a well fitting screwdriver .
Sometime the brass is seemingly brittle, and just breaks off, hence the admonition to be gentle
Eric in the collonies
Then proceed gently to attempt to loosen with a well fitting screwdriver .
Sometime the brass is seemingly brittle, and just breaks off, hence the admonition to be gentle
Eric in the collonies
I filed sharp the prong on a old pincer and was able to wedge the thin end under and pry it off. The shaft had broken. A packet of new ones from Thomas flynn as mentioned, bought two dozen cos why not, and have plenty left!
DItto for the second saw.
DItto for the second saw.
Many thanks for all the above advice.
In order to not take over other thread..
I just recently got great results with citric acid and hot water, followed by a vigourous scrubbing with fine steel wool. Got the citric acid powder from local pharmacy.
Previously used 600 to 2000 wet and dry sandpaper with Wd40 as a lubricant.
Next time I'm gonna try the really sharp chisel method mentioned in the other thread.
I just recently got great results with citric acid and hot water, followed by a vigourous scrubbing with fine steel wool. Got the citric acid powder from local pharmacy.
Previously used 600 to 2000 wet and dry sandpaper with Wd40 as a lubricant.
Next time I'm gonna try the really sharp chisel method mentioned in the other thread.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I believe in doing as little as possible. If possible tighten a loose handle. but if tight leave it alone. Brush off loose rust. Sharpen the blade. Brush over all, wood and metal, with raw or boiled linseed oil. Start using the saw when it's a bit dry.
With use even a very rusty surface becomes low friction very quickly and acquires a dull brown shine, gradually showing up the metal. Where it is not rubbed off the oil stays indefinitely and inhibits any further rust.
With use even a very rusty surface becomes low friction very quickly and acquires a dull brown shine, gradually showing up the metal. Where it is not rubbed off the oil stays indefinitely and inhibits any further rust.
These are domed-nut sawscrews. [Nominally-] plated steel, so they tend to rust together. I would suggest: 1: Using a full-size hacksaw, cut a straight slot across the domed head of the screw. The deeper the better. 2: Use Plus-Gas or Bulldog BDX applied to both screw and nut ends [ or drip it in from the front between blade and handle]; then leave a few hours. 3: Put a flat screwdriver into a bench vise, facing sideways. 4: Fit the screwhead over the screwdriver blade. 5: Using a second screwdriver, lean hard against the nut and turn out. If it's stiff, I use a Mole wrench on the screwdriver handle, to get better purchase.
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Why take it apart? The handle will clean fine, in situ, and frankly so will the blade. Sounds like you're contemplating a more drastic cleaning and I would encourage you not to do that. Find some scrap wood. Apply a generous amount of household oil to the blade. Rip the wood as far as the spine will let you go. Repeat several times - oil and saw, oil and saw. Sharpen and set the teeth. Done. Wipe the handle with lamp oil (highly refined kerosene is essentially all it is) buff with paper toweling, then wax with a high-solvent wax and you're done.
