Tennant Saws

[Toolemera]

Folks

Does anyone here use a bow saw to cut tenons? The question pertains to Moxon's reference to a tennant saw and his image of a bow saw. I know that Tage Frid preferred a bow saw for tenon work and that it was a common practice in some European countries. I'm curious if anyone here follows suit.

Gary

 

[Philly]

Gary
Not me (or anyone I know). The use of bowsaws is much more common on the continent (especially Germany, I believe)
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[kenneth cooke]

I tend to use a tenon saw to cut tenons- a LN carcass saw to be precise

 

[Rich]

Perhaps I'm missing the point here, but the only thing I'd use a bowsaw for would be log cutting or pruning trees,

Regards,

Rich.

 

[DaveL]

Perhaps I'm missing the point here, but the only thing I'd use a bowsaw for would be log cutting or pruning trees,

Rich,

Different type of bow saw.

 

[bugbear]

Perhaps I'm missing the point here, but the only thing I'd use a bowsaw for would be log cutting or pruning trees,

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html

http://www.hyperkitten.com/woodworking/resaw.php3

http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.htm

http://www.bahcostore.com/bow-saws.jsp

BugBear

 

[Rich]

Thanks chaps, I have been suitably educated.

Regards,

Rich.

 

[neilyweely]

well, intrigued I proceeded to give it a go. And now I know why I use a tenon saw.

The Jack saws we used to use at college are the best for me, maybe 'cos its all I am used to. Maybe if I had a finer blade on the bowsaw.

Heard a rumour about using old bandsaw blades on bowsaws, any experience of this?? If I could cut a straight line with it maybe.........

Neil (playing about on my day off!!)

 

[Benchwayze]

I think you will find that Frank Klausz uses a bow saw to cut tenons; not always, but sometimes. His saw looks to be home-made and uses a one inch wide blade. I've also seen him use a bow saw to trim sections to length.

There's one good reason to use a bow saw for cutting the cheeks of a tenon. There is no brass back to restrict you when you need more depth of cut. The other alternative for extra-deep tenons of course is a rip saw.

I agree, I was always taught that the bow-saw is mainly for large circular cuts, when a coping saw couldn't 'cope'. But once mastered it's a good saw for some general tasks too. The good thing abut it is that you can have alternative blades for different jobs of course.

Mind you, I sometimes use a hammer to drive screws; but then, I am a Brummie! lol: :lol:

Regards
John

 

[Pekka Huhta]

A nice video showing how Klausz does it.

http://popularwoodworking.com/klausz

"If it's too tight, don't force it. Just get a bigger hammer"

I love my bow saws. They are much more than just for circular cuts. I use them as a replacement for a bandsaw (I don't own one), but you can also rip a plank with amazing speed with a a thin-bladed bowsaw. The kerf is as thin as on a japanese saw and length of the sawblade is three times longer than on any japanese saws.

Pekka

 

[Benchwayze]

Yes indeed Pekka...

I think there was a little 'spoofing' going on there, but I know Klausz can make perfectly acceptable dowvetails without templates and measurements.

There's a place for it all of course.

Frank is one of our neglected 'mentors'; one of those woodworkers who can cross the boundary between 'Fine Woodworking' and acceptable ultilitarian practices. He is certainly unafraid of modern technology, when it's necessary, but he fully understands the use of his hand tools; which he keeps in mint condition, I might add. He treads the fine line and I suppose he has as much a philosophical outlook on his craft as any of the other more vaunted 'gurus'. For me at any rate!

Regards
John

 

[bugbear]

but you can also rip a plank with amazing speed with a a thin-bladed bowsaw. The kerf is as thin as on a japanese saw and length of the sawblade is three times longer than on any japanese saws.

I've often wondered why the"european" style of bowsaw isn't more popular, for the reasons you cite.

The push stroke is more powerful (western handsaw), and narrow kerfs are good (japanese handsaw).

Only the euro-bowsaw combines these two features.

BugBear

 

[Pekka Huhta]

Yes indeed Pekka...

I think there was a little 'spoofing' going on there, but I know Klausz can make perfectly acceptable dowvetails without templates and measurements.

There's a place for it all of course.

Personally I prefer to work just as he does, without templates and measurements, only marking up the pieces from each other. It is difficult, but very rewarding (and I can't brag being very good at it )

Here is another video of his work with much smaller hammer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-o4jryTkUc

BB, I think that a bowsaw seems very heavy and awkward out if you just look at one. If it is difficult getting proper dovetails with a small and delicate dovetail saw, an intuitive thought of a bow saw would be "if I can't do it with the small one, how the **** I'm going to do it with that monster". Once you try, you'll know better, but intuitively bowsaws look like sand on the slope™ :wink:

They are nice for certain applications. I like the thin kerf, long stroke and ability to twist the blade to the right direction while keeping the frame on the same position. They are a bit big for certain applications, and sometimes the bow gets in the way.

Pekka