Tapered Cuts

[ChaiLatte]

Does the material have to be a single 3m length? You can make one tapered cut in a piece that is 1.5m long, and butt the ends together to make a smooth tpaer over the full 3m length.

You would cut your timber to 45mm + your kerf width.

 

[Mark18PLL]

That's a seriously ambitious cut in my opinion and not one I would attempt on a table saw. Depending on the depth of cut and the material being cut I would revisit the track saw route. If it's solid timber and the cut is hard work I'd look at changing the blade to a rip tooth. how many do you have to cut and do you have a 3m bench on which to set up the track saw

I agree that it's ambitious lol, have already made a cut with the tracksaw which was supported with material of the same width but I just wish I had a better way. Unfortunately I think this is probably the only way to do it in a safe way.
Cheers

 

[Mark18PLL]

Does the material have to be a single 3m length? You can make one tapered cut in a piece that is 1.5m long, and butt the ends together to make a smooth tpaer over the full 3m length.

You would cut your timber to 45mm + your kerf width.

Unfortunately not as it's for batten cladding on a wall and I have a 2x1 vertical batten every 400mm and horizontal lengths attached to it.

 

[Cabinetman]

If I’ve understood it correctly, how about putting the wood onto wall horizontally in differing thicknesses? So no tapered bits needed.
Ian

 

[HOJ]

it's for batten cladding on a wall and I have a 2x1 vertical batten every 400mm and horizontal lengths attached to it.

Why do they need to be tapered?

Anyway, I used to have to regularly make firrings for flat roof jobs, on site, and more so when we needed crickets, straight off the site saw, with a pinged chalk line to guide us, then in more recent times I've tried to use the track saw, but to be honest the site saw was actually easier, once you got your eye in, (figuratively speaking)

Just been cutting some 4.8m lengths of 225mm * 75mm redwood down the middle, you could do it this way:

 

[Mark18PLL]

Why do they need to be tapered?

Anyway, I used to have to regularly make firrings for flat roof jobs, on site, and more so when we needed crickets, straight off the site saw, with a pinged chalk line to guide us, then in more recent times I've tried to use the track saw, but to be honest the site saw was actually easier, once you got your eye in, (figuratively speaking)

Just been cutting some 4.8m lengths of 225mm * 75mm redwood down the middle, you could do it this way:

View attachment 182421

Because I want to scribe the bottom batten to the tiles and leave enough gap below to allow water run off.