Tail Vice

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Doug B

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Hi all,
As my next main project is a new work bench, i would be interested in your views on tail vices.
At the moment i`m thinking of two lines of dog holes towards the front & back of the bench, with two corresponding dogs on a wooden tail vice. Though i do have concerns of racking when only using one of the dogs.
The project is only at the design stage so any constructive input would be most welcome.
James
 
For most situations I find that you need only one dog in the vice but it's good to have several rows on the bench. Here's mine

Workbench1.jpg


If you make the holes to fit the Veritas range of dogs, they are very useful for odd clamping set-ups, like this for example

Tabletop1.jpg


Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I don't know how much your budget is or how good you want your bench to be, but I reckon the most versatile tail vice (and one that certainly won't rack) is the Veritas twin-screw tail vice http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,41659

I had a good look at this vice on the BriMarc stand at the recent D&M show where it was fitted to BriMarc's bench and was very impressed with it. I think if I were building my ultimate bench, this would be the tail vice I would fit.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
You're right to be concerned about racking although, according to Ben Plewes' article in the new issue of Good Woodworking, the Veritas vice mentioned above doesn't have this problem (unlike the old Records). They're not cheap though! :shock: Ben says he payed £170 for his, although it's almost certainly gone up since then... :(

Then again, looking at Paul's photo', if you only need to use one row of holes then his idea of having them central to a Record vice may work well. :wink:

Anything closer to the left-hand end could be secured with a couple of the Wonder Dogs, also from Veritas. :)
 
My solution to the racking of a Record end vice was to cannibalise another vice (I had a spare, ebay job lot, but you could do the same with a vice screw from axminster or whatever) for the screw and nut, bury the nut at the back edge of the outer jaw, and cut down the screw so it bears on a metal plate housed into the inner jaw (well, apron) to resist the racking. I shortened the vice handle on the secondary screw to 4 inches or so so it doesn't get in the way of the main vice handle.

Nicked/adapted the idea from a scandinavian wooden vice in one of the workbench books.
 
Thanks for the replies so far, food for thought.
I`ve been looking in past posts, Lord Nibbo`s bench looks excellent as do a few others.
The Veritas does look a good option though a little rich for my blood, having said that i`m hoping this will be the last bench i make. Though i seem to remember saying something similar about workshops, now on my forth.
Anymore information/ recommendations gratefully received.
James.
 
IMHO you wouldn't go far wrong following Shultzys design with "Corby wood"

The money saved would pay for flash parts for a tail vice
 
lurker":10h03dkr said:
IMHO you wouldn't go far wrong following Shultzys design with "Corby wood"

The money saved would pay for flash parts for a tail vice

I have been following Shultzy`s "Corby wood" bench with interest, a shame he couldn`t make Steve`s mini bash, as i could have quizzed him :lol: . Though Steve was kind enough to get out the Scott Landis workbench book, which was a very impressive tomb, & quite informative.
As for the bench i`m intending making it from Oak, as being my principle timber it is the cheapest hardwood i buy, it is also the only one i buy in volume so have stock of.
 
Here is a pic of my very rough and ready tail vice. The screw was about a tenner from Axminster the rest was CLS. The idea was nicked from NYW in one of the episodes about building your own workbench. It was one of the first things I made and really needs re making but it works.

DSC_4882.jpg
 
If you go down the route of making a traditional 'L' tail vice they can be quite interesting to consrtruct. I built one on my bench and haven't regretted it, the vice screw from Axminster seems good - Rob
 
.


Benches are very much a personal thing and who better to make a bench than a wood worker? I’m always disappointed by the factory made ones, both in quality and design.

This is a bench I made about 15 years ago from 2” waney edged beech that I re-sawed into 4” strips. I hope that it all makes sense.

It resulted from a study of Frank Klausz’s European style bench in Scot Landis’s Workbench book.

Both sets of vice ironmongery, shoulder and tail, are from Axminster

CopyofIMGP0014.jpg


I won’t go into the full details - take too long, but the front edge has a row of square dog holes, and a pair of dogs with springs set into the side to prevent slippage. The shoulder in the hole is angled to throw off debris and the dog fits flush with the top of the bench.(another idea from the book). The dog holes are orientated at about 5 degrees toward the tail vice and the dogs in the shoulder are angles in the opposite direction, so I can release work with a sharp clout on the dog. I use wooden dogs, because sooner or later I’m going to catch it with a plane.

IMGP0005-212.jpg


Here’s the tail vice, containing my take on a bench slave.

IMGP0016.jpg


And the business end faced with some scrap Walnut bits. The groove at the back allows it to run in a straight line.

IMGP0005-213.jpg


This is the running gear for the tail vice – again all home-made with Axminster screws. The bit of steel pipe keeps it in a straight line and the right-angled block runs along the side beam with a spring-loaded door catch (out of sight).

IMGP0017-115.jpg


Here’s the bench slave. It fits in the tail vice or screwed onto the end. It can support boards of any width by raising and lowering the support at the top., with the left end of the board held in the shoulder vice.

IMGP0017-118.jpg


Here it is in use with a board in it.

IMGP0017-11.jpg


In short – the best thing I ever made. If I had to remake it, I would have left the top as loose boards secured with screwed rods instead of gluing the lot as I did with this one.



.
 
waterhead37":1vkyrn08 said:
Argus":1vkyrn08 said:
. If I had to remake it, I would have left the top as loose boards secured with screwed rods instead of gluing the lot as I did with this one.
.

I am intrigued - why would you do this?


It's to allow for the inevitable movement, which even when the boards were stacked and dried, I underestimated......

The top consists of two 4 x 2 beech boards with the dog slots routed out and then face-glued together making a 4 x 4 beam. Behind it are a row of 4 x 2 boards glued edge to edge. In the original plan, Klausz has a threaded steel rod running side to side. You can see it near the shoulder.
The top has moved a little over the years in my unheated workshop. It’s not too drastic, but my thought was that for bench Mark 2, I would make the lot as loose boards with threaded rods at intervals so that it could be adjusted or even taken apart and re-made.

As an after-thought, I’d also beef up the shoulder. But there’s nothing wrong with it and I’ve used it regularly, as you can see from the battle scars.



I also made it without a tool well. I'm in two minds over this whether I need one or not. It's too easy to let stuff accumulate in the well, so I decided against it.



.
 
waterhead37":1ozdhpgg said:
I have never heard of a bench top being made in this way.

Neither have I, but it does allow the possibility of either tightening it up if it gets any shrinkage gaps, movement or wind, or dismantling the lot and racing it through a thicknesser.

The accepted method is to take a scrub plane and smoother to it when it gets marked or out of shape, which is equally laborious, if not more so.
It's all a matter of expediency.

I forgot to mention that I would probably have made it a foot or so longer, but that's a small point.

It's a good bench and it will see me out, and a few more after me, I expect.



..
 
Many thanks Argus, your bench is the type i`m drifting towards, I`ve bought a copy of the Scott Landis workbench book, so have some early Christmas reading.
Thanks again.
James.
 
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