tablesaw blades

[tombo]

since my kickback incident, my saw is definitly not cutting as well as it used to so i am gonna treat myself to a new blade.

Thin kerf seems a win win to me less wood removed less sawdust and easier on the motor. There has got to be some downside or all blades would be thin kerf what am i missing?

My woodford saw takes a 10" blade with a 5/8 arbour, not that common here so maybe i'll source it from the US anyone tried forrest blades?

Finally does anyone here swap from cross cut to rip as necessary or is a general purpose blade the way to go?

Tom

 

[Woody Alan]

I used to try with a general purpose in the early days, but when you've used a proper rip blade it's a "true" revalation. Then having experienced that, it allows you to consider having a finer crosscut blade, for crosscut only, which is the second revalation . seriously use the right blade for the job in hand it really does make a difference. Another way to look at it when used for thir correct job there will be less wear and tear on the blade so two blades will last more than twice as long as a universal. OK so I just made that up but it does sort of make sense.

Alan

 

[paulm]

Hi Tom,

I've found various Freud blades to be very good on tablesaw and sliding mitre saw.

Currently using a 60 tooth ( I think, from memory !) crosscut blade on the table saw which gives an excellent finish crosscutting and is fine for ripping most things albiet it you have to feed slowly which seems to be the compromise you make.

Never had to swap between blades but I guess if I was planning to rip a pile of timber I might get round to it, but for most times the crosscut seems fine to me.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[Scrit]

Hi Tom

Thin kerf seems a win win to me less wood removed less sawdust and easier on the motor. There has got to be some downside or all blades would be thin kerf what am I missing?

The riving knife will need to be replaced to accommodate the thinner blade for a start, but the biggest downside is that thin blades tend to flex more in cut (and so can need blade stiffeners) and will vibrate more

My Woodford saw takes a 10" blade with a 5/8 arbour, not that common here so maybe i'll source it from the US anyone tried Forrest blades?

There are two ways of overcoming this - firstly take a standard blade with a 30mm Euro bore and get the supplier to fit a 30mm OD x 5/8in ID bushing (my supplier does this for free) or buy your blades from a saw doctor who will either bush a standard bore or drill a blade out for you. Remember Wadkins were often supplied with 3/4in or 20mm arbors and that some of the Startrites also sported 5/8in arbors. Both are simpler and cheaper than importing Forrest. In any case once the blade needs sharpening are you seriously considering sending it back to the USA? The quality of sharpening and retensioning over the life of a blade are at least as important as the original blade quality, IMHO

Finally does anyone here swap from cross cut to rip as necessary or is a general purpose blade the way to go?

GP blades are OK but are a compromise - they'll never rip as fast as a true rip blade, nor crosscut as smoothly as a true crosscut. The advantage is that you don't need to continually swap blades. If I were you I'd buy a cheap rip from Tim and co. for ripping sessions (it'll save wear and tear on the other blade) they keep a combi blade on for the rest of the time - as long as you're prepared to use a shooting board/hand plane or sand the ends it will make no difference.

Scrit

 

[Woody Alan]

Just to add further, the time taken to swap to a rip blade will be easily made up in the time it takes to cut any amount of rip stock. It's the same principle as having the right bandsaw blade for the job. If you are only doing a piece a foot long then OK but if it's a ten foot piece it's worth swapping to a rip blade, less time at the saw, less burning, less fatigue, less risk of injury. Any combo blade capable of ripping at any speed is not going to give polished finsh on crosscut. You just need to decide what it is "you" want. Swapping blades takes 30 sec to a minute, not much to make life easier.

Alan

 

[johnjin]

Tom
Have a look here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Blad ... -23230.htm

£2.07 is not bad.

All the best

John

 

[Scrit]

Swapping blades takes 30 sec to a minute, not much to make life easier.

My comments were more to do with commercial-style usage where it is quite common to do a big ripping session then swap to a combo blade for general use. Swapping might only take thirty seconds but after the 20th swap in a session making sash windows or frame and panel doors it becomes quite wearing. One of the reasons joinery shops often have a cross cut or radial arm saw and use a table saw for ripping.

Scrit

 

[motownmartin]

I think that most people on this forum are not here to learn how to run a production line, what I mean is does it really matter if it takes an extra 10 or 20 mins cutting a batch of wood, I would prefer a finer blade to get a better crosscut and would prefer to rip a little slower and more controlled.

 

[Scrit]

Martin, if you ever decide to make-up a batch of frame and panel doors for your kitchen (maybe some 10 to 20 doors) that's just what you will be doing - running a mini production line. The time taken to continully swap back and forth, particularly if you have to reset the ruler on the crosscut fence, becomes a bind for anyone.

Scrit

 

[Woody Alan]

Woody Alan wrote:
Swapping blades takes 30 sec to a minute, not much to make life easier.

My comments were more to do with commercial-style usage where it is quite common to do a big ripping session then swap to a combo blade for general use. Swapping might only take thirty seconds but after the 20th swap in a session making sash windows or frame and panel doors it becomes quite wearing

Scrit slightly out of context, as you are quoting me as if I was replying to your post which I hadn't seen at the time...I just randomly generated it of my own free will...I think.

GP blades are OK but are a compromise - they'll never rip as fast as a true rip blade, nor crosscut as smoothly as a true crosscut. The advantage is that you don't need to continually swap blades. If I were you I'd buy a cheap rip from Tim and co. for ripping sessions (it'll save wear and tear on the other blade) they keep a combi blade on for the rest of the time - as long as you're prepared to use a shooting board/hand plane or sand the ends it will make no difference.

I am almost sure we kind of are thinking the same here...

Alan

 

[motownmartin]

Martin, if you ever decide to make-up a batch of frame and panel doors for your kitchen (maybe some 10 to 20 doors) that's just what you will be doing - running a mini production line. The time taken to continully swap back and forth, particularly if you have to reset the ruler on the crosscut fence, becomes a bind for anyone.

Scrit

Yes Scrit, I wasn't criticizing, just airing my own preference I have never been very good at describing things in writing but I do try :wink:

Martin

 

[Scrit]

Hi Alan

I didn't mean to quote out of context. My own preference is to use a rip or crosscut as required, but for things like sets of small doors where it is necessary to swap back and forth it just gets plain tedious, so after doing the heavy ripping work a combo blade can be made to serve providing one doesn't want the absolute best quality cut and accept that the ripping will also be slow. I was trying to point out the differences between joinery practice and home shop practice as well to illustrate what the trades people are trying to achieve and why machines like the (much maligned) radial arm are so useful

Scrit

 

[motownmartin]

Hi Alan

I didn't mean to quote out of context. My own preference is to use a rip or crosscut as required, but for things like sets of small doors where it is necessary to swap back and forth it just gets plain tedious, so after doing the heavy ripping work a combo blade can be made to serve providing one doesn't want the absolute best quality cut and accept that the ripping will also be slow. I was trying to point out the differences between joinery practice and home shop practice as well to illustrate what the trades people are trying to achieve and why machines like the (much maligned) radial arm are so useful

Scrit

Use the right tool for the right job, the golden rule for most Tradesmen.

 

[Woody Alan]

Motown wrote

I would prefer a finer blade to get a better crosscut and would prefer to rip a little slower and more controlled.

I am speaking as an amateur here, not as a respected professional, but I do have to say that there is a misunderstanding here of being able to rip a little slower because you are not using the "most suitable" blade for the job somehow gives you more control. There can be no arguing the fact that a rip blade which will cut more easily for the task which it is designed for, is ultimately more suitable, the feed rate is up to the sawyer, but with a rip blade at least you won't be tempted to force it.
Alan

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

Talking of saw blades... if anyone has the chance to pick up a blade from leitz tooling, buy it.
I recently bought a 96 tooth 12" blade for a mitre saw, the quality of cut is second to none.
It's a low noise blade too, and the difference was astonishing between a normal blade and this one.

 

[Woody Alan]

Scrit wrote

I didn't mean to quote out of context

Of course you didn't I know this threads running fast I am just keen to point out even as an amateur that there is real merit, possibly even more, in changing blades when it suits. As amateurs we should be in no hurry (wrong word??) so taking the trouble to change a blade should be OK . let's face it if we took as much time to cut a bit of wood as the amount of time it apparently takes to sharpen a handtool to cut it it, changing a blade pales into such insignificence as to make it a mere trifle.

Alan

 

[motownmartin]

Motown wrote

I would prefer a finer blade to get a better crosscut and would prefer to rip a little slower and more controlled.

I am speaking as an amateur here, not as a respected professional, but I do have to say that there is a misunderstanding here of being able to rip a little slower because you are not using the "most suitable" blade for the job somehow gives you more control. There can be no arguing the fact that a rip blade which will cut more easily for the task which it is designed for, is ultimately more suitable, the feed rate is up to the sawyer, but with a rip blade at least you won't be tempted to force it.
Alan

I'm not dissagreeing with you Alan, I'm just Lazy :lol: in fact I take on board what everybody says and use it to enhance my knowledge (which is very little up to now) :lol:

Martin

 

[PaulO]

since my
My woodford saw takes a 10" blade with a 5/8 arbour

Are you sure? My 10" woodford has a 30mm arbor.

 

[George_N]

Wealdendo blades to fit a 5/8" arbour. Good quality too. I have one of their triple chip blades for cutting melamine...best I've used, though not cheap. I've also found regular cleaning of the blade to remove resin/crud build-up to be very helpful, especially when working with man-made boards like MFC and MDF. Either a commercial blade cleaner or even a household cleaner like "Cilit Bang Universal Degreaser" and a Scotchbright pad works well. I've also been using a PTFE spray lubricant on my blades, after cleaning. It works for me any way as I seem to get cleaner, faster cuts.

 

[llangatwgnedd]

Woodo,
It's Woodfords American contractor saws that has a 5/8 arbour, 30mm on the cabinet T/saw